There is even an HVAC system self test that doesn't need Techstream. For non-nav:
Updates on the HVAC noises - any suggestions?
- Thread starter dnp
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There is even an HVAC system self test that doesn't need Techstream. For non-nav:
- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks langsen.
I always found myself to be pretty good at following flow charts, but for some reason, many steps in that one make no sense to me.
I'm going to go operate the system with this chart and see if any of it becomes self-explanatory.
Thanks again for sending it!
David
I always found myself to be pretty good at following flow charts, but for some reason, many steps in that one make no sense to me.
I'm going to go operate the system with this chart and see if any of it becomes self-explanatory.
Thanks again for sending it!
David
Unfortunately, there is no "cooling off period" in Utah. I have 400 miles on it since buying it. The dealer is refusing to do anything for me, since the vehicles are sold as-is. I asked if being sold as-is extends to lying about the state of "as-is" and our conversation went south from there.
Oof.Unfortunately, there is no "cooling off period" in Utah. I have 400 miles on it since buying it. The dealer is refusing to do anything for me, since the vehicles are sold as-is. I asked if being sold as-is extends to lying about the state of "as-is" and our conversation went south from there.
Time for Google and Yelp reviews?
Maybe. I'm kind of exhausted from the arguments over the last week. The dealership also does that scuzzy thing where they include the "aftermarket warranty that is free for the first 60 days, but you have to remember to cancel it before then, because it actually covers nothing". Well, weirdly, it actually covers this, and this repair would pay for the warranty in full... So I'm going to use them, and the warranty is surprisingly cool with "light offroading". I told them I plan to use it as an overland camping vehicle, and they agreed to add into the notes on my contract that "body modifications, up to a 2" lift, and up to 33" tires are approved modifications" under my contract. She said "we're really just concerned about changes to the powertrain. Just don't lift it 5", put on 37s, and chip it."
So I'm still angry at the dealership, but shocked at the customer service of the warranty company. Maybe I got lucky and talked to the right person at the warranty company. This has been a weird saga.
That is bizarre...good news that you're covered, though!
- Thread starter
- #27
OK, to revive a long-silent thread.
Finally got tired of not driving the truck in the summer, so I decided to follow my local Lexus guru's advice from the beginning and just replace all four servos. Like I said in earlier posts, I've resisted that suggestion, because it just seemed to me to be unlikely that all 4 servos would go bad at EXACTLY the same time! I have been convinced it was an issue on the controller side of things and not the items being controlled. Again, it just didn't seem like four separate mechanisms would go bad at the same time.
I was wrong. Dug into it this far this past week (photo below). Replaced all four servos. Quiet as a mouse. In fact, no amount of input will cause ANY sound behind the dash.......there's been a LOT of down time because of my resisting the correct suggestion!
Finally got tired of not driving the truck in the summer, so I decided to follow my local Lexus guru's advice from the beginning and just replace all four servos. Like I said in earlier posts, I've resisted that suggestion, because it just seemed to me to be unlikely that all 4 servos would go bad at EXACTLY the same time! I have been convinced it was an issue on the controller side of things and not the items being controlled. Again, it just didn't seem like four separate mechanisms would go bad at the same time.
I was wrong. Dug into it this far this past week (photo below). Replaced all four servos. Quiet as a mouse. In fact, no amount of input will cause ANY sound behind the dash.......there's been a LOT of down time because of my resisting the correct suggestion!
Never say never.... espeically with mechanical things.... anything can and will happen. I'm glad you finally got it sorted.
Wow dnp! You’re brave.
Can you share with us the locations of the 4 front servos? I was wrongly under the impression there was only 2.
A Lexus tech did state in my service history, the constant noise behind the passenger dash was a “servo”.
The previous owner declined to fix it. I was planning on replacing it myself.
Can you share with us the locations of the 4 front servos? I was wrongly under the impression there was only 2.
A Lexus tech did state in my service history, the constant noise behind the passenger dash was a “servo”.
The previous owner declined to fix it. I was planning on replacing it myself.
- Thread starter
- #30
On the illustration below:
#9 - part # 87106-35170
# 10 - part # 87106-35180
# 11 - part # 87106-35120
# 19 - part # 87106-35150
All of these were making noise, in one way or another, on mine. I chose to replace them all. Check out "partsouq" on ebay. They're in the U.A.E., and yet my parts arrived easily as fast as from anyone from whom I've ordered in the U.S.!
This thread is a great resource. I'm having some similar issues in my car although it doesn't seem to be quite so severe yet. I only seem to be hearing noises from the passenger side servos. Are these accessible without tearing out the entire dash? Some writeups for other Lexus models outline accessing them through the panels around the glovebox.
Bumping this! I have a ticking sound from the behind the passenger side of the dash down low. I think it might be the actuator. Can anyone confirm the part number? All I see on Rockauto is this... Blend Door Actuator
I’m looking for #19 correct? That’s the one behind the glove box?
- Thread starter
- #34
Yes, #19 is the one behind the glove box. In fact, if I recall correctly, you can remove the glove box itself and pretty well see this one. You can watch it as you hear the ticking and see if it's the one making the noise. Also, with the glove box out, I think you can see either 10 or 11, but they're more difficult. I think it was one of those that required the dash removal to replace it.
Yours sounds like its the "heat/temp blend" servo is the bottom one behind the glove box. the upper one controls ''mode'' (upper, floor, both, etc...). Luckily for you the heat blend is the easier of the two when it comes to replacing.
You can actually unplug these to avoid the annoying clicking while you order the replacement. Granted they are ''frozen'' in whatever position they were in when you unplugged. i did that when my mode servo went out behind the glove box.
You can actually unplug these to avoid the annoying clicking while you order the replacement. Granted they are ''frozen'' in whatever position they were in when you unplugged. i did that when my mode servo went out behind the glove box.
It looks like the servo part is the same on all 4 locations. The OEM P/N are 4 different one because it comes complete with sub bracket and specific lever for each application.
So the rockauto servo blend motor is just the servo itself. You need to reuse the sub-bracket and the OEM lever.
So the rockauto servo blend motor is just the servo itself. You need to reuse the sub-bracket and the OEM lever.
- Thread starter
- #37
Everyone has their own level of comfort, but based on how difficult it is to get to and replace some of these servos (see post #27 above), there's no way I'd (personally) go with anything other than a Denso. Like those folks who simply rebuild vs. replace their starters, it's just too involved to have to go back in and do over again.
Just my food for thought............
Just my food for thought............
I needed the air mix servo with the little actuator and wiring harness for my 99 LC
Bought this on ebay: Lexus LX470 Toyota Land Cruiser Evaporator Heater Damper Servo 1998-2007 OEM
Denso 063700-7401
Bought this on ebay: Lexus LX470 Toyota Land Cruiser Evaporator Heater Damper Servo 1998-2007 OEM
Denso 063700-7401
You guys don’t need to buy new servos. Just open your existing one and fix it.
most of the time the gear spline has slid down the motors shaft. Use a screw driver to move it back up in place. Maybe add a drop of jb weld/epoxy to keep it from sliding back down the motor shaft. Multiple videos on YouTube how to do this.
most of the time the gear spline has slid down the motors shaft. Use a screw driver to move it back up in place. Maybe add a drop of jb weld/epoxy to keep it from sliding back down the motor shaft. Multiple videos on YouTube how to do this.
