Builds What did you do to your Land Cruiser/Toyota/Lexus 4X4 this week?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Finagled a 285/75R17 spare underneath, there's about 5/16" clearance between a brand new tire and the panhard bar. Next to fashion a spare lift kit.
It's official, they fit on a stock 80 (minus front bumper).
20190717_170706.jpg
 
Removed my rear heater and made an aluminum bracket to mount a small powered subwoofer and an ARB mini compressor under the passenger seat. Came out really nice, good use of wasted space.

Then, I made a conversion harness to control my compressor and ARB's with a factory diff lock switch and dash indicators. When the rear locker is turned on, the compressor kicks on - works just like factory lockers, but with cool turbo blow off valve noises :)

While I had things apart I ran a 6ga to the rear fuse panel to replace the 8ga, and replaced the maxifuse setup with a bussman marine breaker.

IMG_20190717_180534398.jpg


IMG_20190718_155943648.jpg
 
So --- did some more looking and all the images of people doing oil changes show a filter that is too long for the central core of the housing (seemingly too big for the housing). For grins I tried bolting on the filter (YZZA2/YZZA5) ... it didn't even squish ... it bolted down and seems to fit properly. Disassembly shows no deformation or kinks in the paper, so I'm putting it back together and adding oil. Hopefully is doesn't jam the bypass spring...

So that implies the short filter that was in there wasn't even filtering since it didn't fit the full length of the perforated housing core. It was a Toyota dealership in Vancouver that did my last change, too They probably didn't even use synthetic since the oil looks and smells so horrid.

Man, do I find great mechanics, or what. What a waste: now I need to do another oil change in 3,000 miles just to flush out the engine.


I might change the filter around 500 miles and see how it looks. Having a filter in there that was too short I would want to see how bad the correct filter looks well before 3,000 miles.
 
Waited way too long to change oil -- it's synthetic, right? --- But discovered the factory filter Toyota sold me does not fit.

Anyone have any idea of the correct filter for a 2012 FJC ? The two after markets I picked up also don't fit. So I'm confusued. Did a dealer change my oil filter housing and not let me know?

View attachment 2033686
Don't know if this helps but this is the Wix number and dimensions;
 
I already have oil and new filters on my ready shelf ... now trying to decide how many miles to wait. Part of me says 50 miles, an hour run time; part of me says 3000, so I don't feel like I dumped $100 down a drain. But 500 might just be enough... another tank of gas. But the damage has been done... I just hope it isn't as bad as my imagination tells me it was.

But it's all back together, new Y5 filter, topped off with 6 qts 0-20w Mobil 1, running well, Maint Light reset... and that's what I did to my Toyota today!
 
I already have oil and new filters on my ready shelf ... now trying to decide how many miles to wait. Part of me says 50 miles, an hour run time; part of me says 3000, so I don't feel like I dumped $100 down a drain. But 500 might just be enough... another tank of gas. But the damage has been done... I just hope it isn't as bad as my imagination tells me it was.

But it's all back together, new Y5 filter, topped off with 6 qts 0-20w Mobil 1, running well, Maint Light reset... and that's what I did to my Toyota today!


I was talking about just changing the filter not all the oil. Just replace oil lost with the filter. Can get contaminates out in the filter oil should be okay.
 
I was talking about just changing the filter not all the oil. Just replace oil lost with the filter. Can get contaminates out in the filter oil should be okay.
Unsure if I can remove the oil filter housing without dumping all the oil with it. But worth a try. I'm also a bit concerned about all the muck (oxides and acids) the new oil is picking up; a lot of that isn't filtered. Maybe if the oil pulled from the filter doesn't smell ancient I'll leave the rest in for a while.
Thank you for the advice.
 
Just replaced boot on upper ball joint.
IMG_20190720_132734_01.jpg


Then noticed outer tie rod boot is torn.

IMG_20190720_135230_01.jpg


Driver side is worse than passenger.
 
Extended my diff breathers, changed diff and transfer fluids, and greased my u-joints and driveshafts.

Last time I changed fluids, I struggled with the quart bottles and tubing. This time I made a pressure filler. It's a little slow, but way easier. Only cost about $15.

IMG_20190721_114216.jpg
 
Extended my diff breathers, changed diff and transfer fluids, and greased my u-joints and driveshafts.

Last time I changed fluids, I struggled with the quart bottles and tubing. This time I made a pressure filler. It's a little slow, but way easier. Only cost about $15.

View attachment 2035626

They have squeezable bags with gear oil in them now. I do not recall the manufacturer though. But that is a great idea, kind of like a power brake bleeder.
 
I have a couple old hand oil pump I used when would change oil in semi hermetic compressors. 6' long hose off a refrigeration gauge manifold with a sweat on schrader valve with a couple inch long piece of copper tubing. Works great on one to five gallon containers. Had these pumps since the eighties at least so nothing new invested in them.
 
Extended my diff breathers, changed diff and transfer fluids, and greased my u-joints and driveshafts.

Last time I changed fluids, I struggled with the quart bottles and tubing. This time I made a pressure filler. It's a little slow, but way easier. Only cost about $15.

View attachment 2035626
That is a great idea! :cheers:
 
After I replaced the boot on my upper ball joint, I noticed a strange rattle coming from the driver side wheel area when I hit bumps. Pulled my wheel off a couple times, had @Saddletramp drive it and he noticed it, but couldn't track down what was loose. Truck drove fine. Everything felt tight, but this was a seriously loose rattle.

Then I remembered my 3 year old was "helping" me with the boot on Saturday. On a lark, I pulled the wheel again, hit the lower control arm with a hammer and heard the rattle.

IMG_20190722_155608_01.jpg


Round peg meet round hole. Was able to fish it out from underneath.

:bang::doh::slap:
 
After I replaced the boot on my upper ball joint, I noticed a strange rattle coming from the driver side wheel area when I hit bumps. Pulled my wheel off a couple times, had @Saddletramp drive it and he noticed it, but couldn't track down what was loose. Truck drove fine. Everything felt tight, but this was a seriously loose rattle.

Then I remembered my 3 year old was "helping" me with the boot on Saturday. On a lark, I pulled the wheel again, hit the lower control arm with a hammer and heard the rattle.

View attachment 2036794

Round peg meet round hole. Was able to fish it out from underneath.

:bang::doh::slap:
That was the tool Graham was playing with when I stopped by. I remember he put that in his pocket when I was there.
 
After I replaced the boot on my upper ball joint, I noticed a strange rattle coming from the driver side wheel area when I hit bumps. Pulled my wheel off a couple times, had @Saddletramp drive it and he noticed it, but couldn't track down what was loose. Truck drove fine. Everything felt tight, but this was a seriously loose rattle.

Then I remembered my 3 year old was "helping" me with the boot on Saturday. On a lark, I pulled the wheel again, hit the lower control arm with a hammer and heard the rattle.

View attachment 2036794

Round peg meet round hole. Was able to fish it out from underneath.

:bang::doh::slap:
Don't feel bad, we have all been there and can't (in my case) be blamed on no-one but "yours truly". Me it's the 10 and 12mm socket monster and the "what was that ping" on the first test drive. :lol:
 
With the rainy weather took a break from working yard and instead working on a set of ambulance doors I bought off wrecked troopy a few years ago. Have damage and small amount rust on the bottom but were just too cheap to past up. Have a little tweaking from the accident but main damage was by the hinge atea. Really don't have much on hand up north but rigged up a puller.
IMG_20190724_133231722_HDR.jpg

By far the worse was the lower right. Should have taken a before picture. Still needs more work and cracks welded but doors do open and close.
IMG_20190725_131804040.jpg
IMG_20190725_132635439.jpg


This is a long term budget build. Had the cruiser for a while but including getting a top and all doors have less than $3K into it. I am adding a five speed and full floating rear but those too are being done on the cheap. Most expensive part I'm guessing will be paint. Adding white I'm now up to five colors. Two are repaint with the original coming thru.
IMG_20190725_132529448.jpg
 
Last edited:
Paid $125.00 for some 2015 SR5 4Runner wheels for my 04 GX470. The guy is moving to San Diego and needed them gone. Couldn’t pass them up at that price! Getting some 285 KO2s mounted up now!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom