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Turned out to be the arm cracked where it fitted on the knurled shaft. Having been there before I drilled and pinned the arm to the shaft and reassemble it for the fix
Drivers side rear door lock failed. Once removed it was not simple fix like the motor.
Yes and No on the alignment. This was the only issue with the install. My truck spent the 1st 6-7 years of its life in NYC. I moved to sunny AZ after that. No rust issues, I've had it looked over, but it seems to be whenever i go to upgrade or replace something the hidden rust shows itself. This time it was actually the lower control arms adjustment bolts and sleeve were completely seized and they couldn't adjust the lowers due to this. So they did a great job and gave it they're all on getting the alignment and got very close, but not perfect. Toe is fine, camber is right at the limit, 1 side slightly over but barely. Caster though misses by about 1 degree. So not a big deal, but not perfect. I don't notice any issues driving it the steering feels totally fine so I'm going to just go with it. Murph drove it too and he said it felt fine also. Basically where the problem was with fixing it is if they cut the lower bolts off with a sawzal they might still not be able to get the sleeve out then and damage the arms. the lower arms cost quite a bit even the stock ones so i really didnt want to risk that. The easier option would be replacing the Upper Control Arms as this would provide more than enough adjustment range to get in line and cost less. Like i said though, It drives great as-is so I'm just going to leave it and see if it becomes an issue down the line. the shocks feel great, the extra height feels great and other than the rust issue they install went great.
Thanks @TexAZ. Before I picked up my truck today I did find those SPC replacement online and actually brought a printout of them into the shop thinking that’d be an easy fix. We talked to the mechanic and what he said was if he cut the bolts off he didn’t think he’d be able to get the sleeves out without damaging the arms. He also said the bushings were in fine shape so safest just to leave it. He said it’s such a small amount of adjustment anyways on lower’s that he’d have much more adjustability with new UCA’s. I measured before/after and it was a bit higher than expected 2.25” front and 2” rear. You think my plan to just Rock with it slightly off is ok? It’s not way out just a little out on caster. I am curious about the tundra swap I’ll search for that. The stock LC lowers were somewhere around $700, plus labor plus allignement pretty pricey for a part I really didn’t want to change. I dunno maybe I shoulda just done UCA’s at the same time but I spent that $ on my new bud built sliders as I wanted those much more
Nice you gave it a real test how’d it do?
