Sweet! Looks I don't have. Thanks
What Did You Do To Your Diesel Today (WDYDTYDT)
- Thread starter OGBeno
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I have been going through items on my new project truck's 1HD-T. Injectors are out to Pacific Fuel Injection in Portland OR. Verdict is they need nozzles and should be ready in a couple of days. They looked pretty gross and for some reason had 3 different color O-rings on them. Also, I checked the valve clearance per the FSM and I have 7 out of 12 that are too tight. (5 intake and 2 exhaust). I'm waiting for an SST to get shims out to measure for what I need and get that done. Hopefully, can get all in shape for summer camping and defer bigger items until the winter.
I've been wondering... is there an alternative source for valve shims? The Toyota ones are all 3-5$ apiece and just having the right ones on the shelf when you need em adds up quick. Seems like a part where there would be some good aftermarket options, considering these shims are all the same in H and L series engines.
I did a lot of searching and it looks like a no for Toyota shims. There may be off brand kits in AU, but I haven't researched that too much. I think I may buy extras for future use after I do this engine. I did the same for the 1FZ-FE and have a bunch of those shims- though I can't seem to locate them.
Sadly my 3/4 drive torque wrench, my crank holding tool I made, and my 1FZ shim assortment are MIA. I may have loaned them out, but no idea to whom, lol.
Darn.
I have been getting more organized after many many instances of losing small parts. I bought these old metal library card holders and built my own janky shop furniture out of it. Absolutely worth it.
While organizing, I "rediscovered" many items I haven't seen in awhile
I need to get my messes in order!Darn.
I have been getting more organized after many many instances of losing small parts. I bought these old metal library card holders and built my own janky shop furniture out of it. Absolutely worth it.
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While organizing, I "rediscovered" many items I haven't seen in awhile
there are several different compines that make aftermarket ones but they're not that much cheaper. Even if they were i wouldn't chance it there is alot force being applied to that shim by the camshaft. i would want it to be just right so it doesn't damage the cam.
I say that every day, but never seem to make any real progress.
You made me think of something else with the fact that new shims will be going in there. Is it recommended that a high zinc oil, or even better, a zinc additive be used so the cam cam break in to the new mating surface? It is gospel on a new engine. Seems to make sense
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Testing compression on this FT today before we proceed with a bunch of work.
Cheers
Cheers
zinc additives can mess with your oil's chemistry,
id stick to ones with what you want already in there
I put a little flat tappet cam grease on new shims. For what ever reason American OHV engines have tons of issues with cams being wiped out but I've never seen an issue on a OHC Jap engine that wasn't staved of oil. I wouldn't add anything to the oil personally, If anything use an oil with more zinc already in it.
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I have a buddy that restores high end muscle cars- they were breaking in an original 426 race hemi on a dyno and it ate the brand new cam up in an instant as they shut it down. Fortunately, they saved the engine. High detail and every precaution and it still happened. I was terrified when I did the cam break on on my number matching 454 in my Chevelle.
During ACSD removal today I noticed that the lock nut on the shaft was missing 
levers were not seated properly affecting my idle and probably also timing permanently. It did idle too high and seemed to run a bit rough especially during warmup. Very unlikely that I would have found this issue without reading about and planning the ACSD delete.
Anyways, adjusted idle to 700rpm afterwards now the FT runs like a dream
levers were not seated properly affecting my idle and probably also timing permanently. It did idle too high and seemed to run a bit rough especially during warmup. Very unlikely that I would have found this issue without reading about and planning the ACSD delete.Anyways, adjusted idle to 700rpm afterwards now the FT runs like a dream
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Some people just shouldn’t work on these engines.
Keyway smashed on the IP shaft and scarred up. Only way I can see this happening is if you used an impact to install the pump and nut. Don’t do this stuff folks, follow the FSM.
Cheers
Keyway smashed on the IP shaft and scarred up. Only way I can see this happening is if you used an impact to install the pump and nut. Don’t do this stuff folks, follow the FSM.
Cheers
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Cheers
What's the story on this one?
I got my injectors back from Pacific Fuel Injection yesterday. They had to clean and reseal 5, and rebuild 1. Took a week total and was very inexpensive.
I am totally impressed.
I can't believe I forgot to take an after picture of them- they look so clean. They are back in place now, and I just have to get the valve shims to complete the project and we can fire the truck up. Hopefully next week.
I am totally impressed.
I can't believe I forgot to take an after picture of them- they look so clean. They are back in place now, and I just have to get the valve shims to complete the project and we can fire the truck up. Hopefully next week.
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FT in an HDJ81 that came in for,
Gturbo
+30 injectors
250hp pump
PDI intercooler
ARP head studs
Rebuild head
3” exhaust
Timing belt & water pump
EGT & boost gauges
Upgraded fan clutch
Few other things
Cheers
Just out of curiosity, it the marking in cylinder #1 light enough to call good? It looks like it, but I honestly don't know the limit to where you can call it good or not. Thanks for the pictures. Looks like a cool project
