What did you do on your 70 series today? (23 Viewers)

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See if this works... posted some on this thread a while ago...


They were taken the day Tor and Nick installed it and the fuel rod last year. LMK if you want to see something specific. Dropped my temps and PDI was awesome to work with. It's in flux. Adding in Tor's custom air cleaner box and replacing the current hobbled together turbo with a Gturbo and OEM parts next month.
Thank you!! That looks fantastic. Excited to see how it all plays out with you Gturbo! Temps are my main concern right now, but not settled on what I want the end result to be components wise!
 
Will do, hopefully talking to some brokers tonight or tomorrow am.
Still no reply from Amayama... They are usually pretty quick to reply but have been unresponsive these last few days. In the meantime, Joe do you know how / why the hard top and soft top quarter panels are different? Is there a work-around if so?
 
Thank you!! That looks fantastic. Excited to see how it all plays out with you Gturbo! Temps are my main concern right now, but not settled on what I want the end result to be components wise!

@Guyute, nice looking set up. It would be great to see Torfabs airbox when you you get that installed.

@Blomdala there's some good photos of a PDI intercooler installation on 75 series ute here:

 
Drove from Flagstaff to Kanab yesterday, 210 miles or so on 8.7 Gallons returned ~24 mpg so pretty chuffed on that. Visiting family in southern UT; passed through Zion today and wife grabbed this shot:

IMG_8317.jpeg



On a side note, anybody interested in a group buy from FRP products in Australia? I am very interested in their VDJ-scooped narrow-70 bonnet. The minimum for their cargo shipping is 1.2 cubic meters and I can't fill that on my own. Shipping to PHX port is quoted at $778 (1050 AUD). Individual parts may fit UPS/Fedex from there.

Browse Products – FRP – Fiberglass Replacement Panels - https://www.frp.com.au/browse-products/?cat=TOYO&scat=2
75 Sports Bonnet3.jpeg
 
Been a few good days not to do anything with a 70 series here on the outer banks. Ocean over wash put heaps of water and sand on Hwy 12 these last few days. Whether hurricane or Nor'Easter it's always a tenuous existence on a sand bar.

There's a highway under there:

Nov 2021 storm 06.jpeg


Nov 2021 storm 07jpeg.jpeg


Photos courtesy of Island Free Press
 
Been a few good days not to do anything with a 70 series here on the outer banks. Ocean over wash put heaps of water and sand on Hwy 12 these last few days. Whether hurricane or Nor'Easter it's always a tenuous existence on a sand bar.

There's a highway under there:

View attachment 2834663

View attachment 2834665

Photos courtesy of Island Free Press
On the plus side everyone’s obeying the “no parking” signs. 😊
 
Still no reply from Amayama... They are usually pretty quick to reply but have been unresponsive these last few days. In the meantime, Joe do you know how / why the hard top and soft top quarter panels are different? Is there a work-around if so?

The soft top panels are different on top where the rail goes. I think that is the only difference.

Here are some pics from the FJ73 I had.

fj732.JPG


fj731.JPG
 
Thanks! I wonder if they could be modified (or rail removed) for my FRP hard top?

They don't come with the rail. Sorry for the confusion. I just meant they probably have some differences to adapt to the rail. The rail itself is a separate part but again I never tried to order all this stuff either.

< I really need to stop looking at the FJ73 pics. It gives me a serious case of sellers regret. >
 
A few of us crashed the local annual Red Hills Rover Rally today.
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Glad there was a tractor available, (other than the 40s).
That tractor was the hero of the day. I believe it had to pull that white Land Rover back to camp. 😊
Our group had attempted to winch it out with a BJ71 and was making progress until the shear pin broke.
 
Today I fixed my Vinyl floor cover. It had a few cuts and tears and in particular the driver's foot area was quite bridle and broken.
I was tempted to get a new one, but I need to save the budget to fix my under floor coating.
20211107_125647.jpg

First I had to get rid of that stuff glued to the back, consisting of probably 80% recycled Japanese 70's cotton panties and 20% dirt.
20211113_101016.jpg

I used a fine brass wire brush on my accu drill to get it off.
Then I carefully glued some patches to the back, using a PVC contact glue. The patches are from 620g/m2 vinyl truck tarpaulin. I allowed for some extra material on where strain had caused tears.
20211114_154651.jpg

Worked out nicely 👌
20211114_154641.jpg
 
Today I fixed my Vinyl floor cover. It had a few cuts and tears and in particular the driver's foot area was quite bridle and broken.
I was tempted to get a new one, but I need to save the budget to fix my under floor coating.
View attachment 2838782
First I had to get rid of that stuff glued to the back, consisting of probably 80% recycled Japanese 70's cotton panties and 20% dirt.
View attachment 2838773
I used a fine brass wire brush on my accu drill to get it off.
Then I carefully glued some patches to the back, using a PVC contact glue. The patches are from 620g/m2 vinyl truck tarpaulin. I allowed for some extra material on where strain had caused tears.
View attachment 2838791
Worked out nicely 👌
View attachment 2838781
Gray high density foam "fatigue mat" from Lowes is good for a nice inexpensive readily available floorboard insulator/sound deadener. I use self taping sheet metal screws and fender washers to hold it down. It doesn't absorb and hold water. You can paint it black with "vinyl and fabric interior spray paint" from your local parts store. Most lowes have it on rolls back with the carpet padding 48+ inches wide and will cut to length. It looks like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Guardian-Air-Step-Antifatigue-Mat-Polypropylene-36-x-60-Black/1002095740 If you search other places you can find it on the internet in other colors.

It lowered the road noise in 3 vehicles I've owned so far. If you are really on a budget don't care what your floor looks like under neath your floor covering, and don't ever intend to strip to bare metal and do some type of frame off restore...... Rust converter over rust, and then tar roof cement/roof coat over that with your anti fatique mat over that, followed by your factory rubber mat. Well sealed, quiet, warm, and fairly permanent solution. ....................The future owner of your vehicle that tries to do a total restoration to factory original will curse you endlessly as he tries to strip down your floorboards.
 
clutch slave gave up the ghost last week. cruiser outfitters had master and slave in stock and got them out post haste. thanks chance!
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installed and bled this morning and back on the road.

--r
 
Gray high density foam "fatigue mat" from Lowes is good for a nice inexpensive readily available floorboard insulator/sound deadener.

It lowered the road noise in 3 vehicles I've owned so far. If you are really on a budget don't care what your floor looks like under neath your floor covering, and don't ever intend to strip to bare metal and do some type of frame off restore...... Rust converter over rust, and then tar roof cement/roof coat over that with your anti fatique mat over that, followed by your factory rubber mat. Well sealed, quiet, warm, and fairly permanent solution. ....................The future owner of your vehicle that tries to do a total restoration to factory original will curse you endlessly as he tries to strip down your floorboards.

I will restore the floor panel properly by cutting out the rusty spots and weld in some patches. Will apply 3 layers of Brantho 3in1 rust protection coating. Then new butyl sound deadner will go in to damp structure born noise.
To further isolate and kill airborn noise, I kill kinda go your proposed way and use closed cell foam, aka camping matress. That stuff is also not absorbing any moist.
I applied that combo in the back already, under the wooden floor I put in, and it worked well. Made all the difference.
 

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