The trailer hitch is exposed on all sides. Dunno how big a deal it is, but you can put a 60 Series body on an 80 frame and get the best of both worlds, if 60s are your thing.Interesting read. My 1988 62 rotted out, but I bought it for peanuts as a cheap truck but I tried to sandblast and rust convert any rust on the frame. (granted this was 2003-2006 and the truck was a 1988). It did seem to rust out from the inside as I did try to fix everything I could externally. I didn't use fluid film and wool wax as I do now.
My 80 is still going strong and it always seemed to me to rust less than my 100s despite similar use in Maine. The variable is the 80 originally came out of Seattle. The confounding factor is my penchant for hosing down the undercarriage with fluid film or woolwax and the timing of salt exposure in Maine. But I bought my 1997 in I think 2004 and for the early years sprayed the undercarriage with wd40 (as I had no knowledge of other treatments at that time). It had also already been in Maine for a few years as it was purchased from a Navy lawyer who had lived in Seattle then come to Maine and then was transferring to Italy. He did nothing to prevent rust on the truck. I got my 100s years later but they were newer overall (I think I bought the 2005 in 2008 and the 2006 in 2013 and that was from a less rusty locale and I hosed them immediately with fluid film).
I know there is no reported difference in the frames but my experience was the 80 frame and body was better than the 100s. I worked on the 1997 over the last several days as my son is home from college, and was amazed at how it still has little rust on the frame and parts (but has a thick coat of combination fluid film and woolwax). It was in with Overland cruisers, out West where my son goes to school, for an complete eval prior to return to Maine for the summer and they commented on the massive amounts of oil and grime covering the frame (this appeared to be a negative comment to my read as it indicated the truck could require rust remediation elsewhere). When they then replaced the suspension, at their recommendation, they found no issues due to the "massive amounts" of oil and grime that they mentioned could require significant remediation, this "grime" was fluid film and woolwax covered by the dust from the dirt road we live on. The truck required no remediation for this "grime or rust". This grime is a savior for east coast trucks and I realize folks in the west may be puzzled by this. But I also saw my prior 100 series trucks have much more rust despite the same treatment. I lost ac lines and after I got rid of the 2005 I learned of it losing brake lines to rust as well as having rust through the rear quarter panel. (as the later buyer and I were able to connect here on mud as I recognized the truck and specific dents when he posted it up).
I am working on the 200 experience but have been overzealous with my application of fluid film and now woolwax (since new which removes variables) and expect minimal rust due to my pathology. But interestingly found my wife's trailer hitch on her 200 has way more rust (really minimal) than anything else on her truck or mine so I am investigating and treating. But I really was amazed that I see no rust anywhere else on her truck or mine but yet have the trailer hitch with a level of rust that I find out of proportion to what I see anywhere else. Which makes me wonder about variability overall on the metal used.
I am honestly very jealous of those who don't deal with salt and magnesium and calcium chloride but also love the snow and the sports associated and what these Land Cruisers can do in those conditions. I am also confident the trucks are the best option to safely get may family through the winter road conditions. Therefore my option is to do the best I can to give my trucks longevity and protection. But think that my experience did show that the 80 series had less rust than the 100 series even though this is purely observational.
The recall years. I do not remember the range. Most of that went down after I retired. In addition I was in New Mexico and it was not an issue there.
Yikes, I always thought of Dana as high-quality, based on their axles.The recall years have been expanded greatly now that Dana has paid almost $1.2 billion to Toyota for warranty.
MetalSA has nothing to do with the recall from the POV of contributing. They are a separate company and took over all frame manufacture from Dana.
The Mexico manufacture had nothing to do with the original frames.
I think it was the entire production run, and AFAIK the issue persisted until at least 2007. The pre-Taco pickups didn’t have this issue to the same degree, though ironically the bodies were much more corrosion-resistant on the Tacomas than the older trucks.Good to know. Which years?
Yea that liquid brine stuff is terrible. Not necessary at all if people know how to drive in the winter, but I digress.I picked up my 80 in 2013 and a 5th gen 4runner in late 2012. When I sold the 4 runner 6 or 7 years later it looked far rustier than the 80 did. Then our city decided to start using a liquid brine solution on the roads in the winter...enough that roads are free of ice in -30 Celsius. The 80 over the last two years of this has degraded substantially. mostly surface rust but it will be getting a healthy dose of wool wax this fall to staunch the bleeding. I hope its not too late. We also have a 2014 200 that I havent worked on but it will aslso be getting the treatment.
Will a healthy does of wool wax be enough or should I be wire wheeling and painting before wool wax?
probably worse for my aggregate driveway than the cruiser too. I will get inside the frame, doors, ect so it will be saturated and seeping with oil.It is MAG, a magnesium chloride based liquid. Worse than salt for your Cruiser. Horrible on the environment as well.