What did I get myself into? (1 Viewer)

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There ought to be an vacuum pump on the back of the alternator - I don't see how the intake manifold would create the neccessary vacuum. Where is the vacuum reservoir? (look for a big tank under the cab).

I'm not so familiar with H engines as the 2H (which i'm no expert on either, but learning more every day), but it looks like the rad is non stock and off, I'm guessing, of a gas-engined truck. The inlet neck looks reversed to me.

There should be an EDIC motor on this engine - I can see it in the second engine bay pic - and there are no detents to feel as it pushes and pulls the on the injector arm. The EDIC controller you will likely find attached to the side of the glovebox sheet metal.

The air cleaner does not look like a diesel one either, though I can see it does bolt to the rocker and looks stock.

Could you take a picture of the accelerator cable linkage where it attaches to the injector pump/EDIC control rod? And what does the tag on the side of the injector pump say? I'm curious to see what model of Denso pump it has.

Lotsa fun ahead!

:beer:
 
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Well, looking under the cab, there is definitely not a vacuum tank of any kind. I also don't see any mounts for anything else under there (looking like it had been removed).

But here's some pics of the throttle linkage and general right side of the engine, and also of the alternator. The alternator is a Denso part, but who knows if it's an original for this truck.

You are right about the radiator. I don't know if it's the original (but it is a Toyota part), but it's only mounted with one bolt right now. There are two bolts on the bottom of the radiator, and two mounting tabs on the front crossmember, yet only one lines up (and therefor only one is secured). So I imagine that the radiator is not correct for that truck.

The FSM we have (Chassis and Body) does cover HJ models, yet the frame measurement diagram doesn't include vertical measurements. It lists horizontal measurements, so I can make sure it wasn't squished front to back, but it's pretty tough to come up with easy vertical measurements to check the trueness of the frame, although I bet I could derive them from the FSM diagram (assuming it's to scale).

Dan
linkage.jpg
alternator.jpg
 
There should be a vacuum tank reservoir - I'd be surprised if there weren't at least evidence of it somewhere. Diesels have vac. reservoir tanks - I've not seen a diesel cruiser without one located somewhere - then again, this is a '76 vehicle, so maybe they didn't use them at that time(?) (I'm skeptical).

Usually in 40 series rigs the tank is located under the cab, bolted to the outside of the chassis rail. It has an inlet and outlet, and a sender switch on the back. On 60 series rigs, the tank is much smaller and is usually bolted to the engine bay firewall or fender apron. The reservoir is connected to the vacuum pump and to the brake booster. For some reason, this entire reservoir system is not mentioned in the FSM, at least the 1980 edition anyhow. Here's a couple of pictures of my tank prior to restoration, showing what it looks like and where it is located (though I have unbolted it and placed it atop the chassis rail in this instance - you can see the bolts that mount it sticking out of the chassis side below). I'm not sure what side of the chassis yours would have been on. I'm relocating mine the left hand side as it shortens all of the piping runs.

Thanks for the pics of the throttle linkage. I can also see another difference between the H and 2H motors: there is no aluminum oil cooler housing (sometimes termed "water inlet jacket") on the side of the block.

I've added a third picture I pulled off the web a few months ago of a LHD HJ45 engine bay. That one had the same 'reversed' rad too, so i wonder what the stock set up is. If you look closely at the brake booster, you will see the rubber line coming from it, transitioning to the metal tube that runs across the firewall (note that there are two of them) and down - this tube then hooks to another rubber pipe that goes to the vacuum reservoir. The other metal pipe should be connected to the back of the alternator pump. This indicates that the vac. reservoir should be under the passenger side floorpan.
 
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Pictures of junk! Yeah!

I am starting to think that the vacuum assisted brakes were added to this vehicle. Here's why: there is no vacuum tank (see pics of undercab area, passenger and driver sides), the vacuum assist isn't a Denso or Aisin product (it's got a tag on it with a Japanese name that I haven't seen before, and says "Bendix License"), and the vacuum tap is just plugged into the intake--poorly (see picture). It just doesn't strike me as very Toyota-esque.

I also included some close up pics of the IP and it's tag for Henry James.

Dan
pass side under.jpg
driver side under.jpg
brake master cylinder.jpg
 
Is that the priming pump visible in the left hand side of the injector pump pic?

The bottom of the three numbers on it is the Toyota part number, and I think the middle is the model number and the top one the Denso number. I'd like to learn a bit more about the differences between different pumps. There are pumps specific to arctic regions, and pumps specific to auto trans models, etc.

I don't see any holes in the chassis for the vacuum tank, nevermind the sedimenter -- where's that located?
 
I don't see any holes in the chassis for the vacuum tank, nevermind the sedimenter -- where's that located?

Not there. That vacuum line runs directly from the tap on the intake, across the top of the engine into the brake booster. No clips, no support, just a line running to the booster. Another reason I don't think it's stock Toyota.

In the pic of the IP, it is indeed the primer you see the top of. I haven't tried doing anything with it really, but I can pump it without resistance. Either it has no fuel, or the pump is bad. I'm willing to bet it's a little from column A, and a little from column B... :)

Any idea what the differences are between the pumps? Does an "arctic" pump somehow circulate coolant through the pump or something? The only place below 7,000 feet I've ever lived was in Alaska, so I'm a bit partial to making sure my truck can handle a little cold.

Dan
 
Like I said earlier, they did NOT have discs in Central America in 1980. I was at an auction for FJ45's from the electric utility here in Guatemala about a year and a half ago. They had 4-5 FJ45's there and EVERY ONE was a drum brake setup and some were 1979 and some were 1980. If that truck has discs they were added on by the PO. Drums DON'T need a booster because they automatically tighten themselves up (increase braking action) when the wheels are turning while the brakes are applied.
There are trucks into the '90's here that run 4 wheel drums!!
 
Not there. That vacuum line runs directly from the tap on the intake, across the top of the engine into the brake booster. No clips, no support, just a line running to the booster. Another reason I don't think it's stock Toyota.

In the pic of the IP, it is indeed the primer you see the top of. I haven't tried doing anything with it really, but I can pump it without resistance. Either it has no fuel, or the pump is bad. I'm willing to bet it's a little from column A, and a little from column B... :)

Any idea what the differences are between the pumps? Does an "arctic" pump somehow circulate coolant through the pump or something? The only place below 7,000 feet I've ever lived was in Alaska, so I'm a bit partial to making sure my truck can handle a little cold.

Dan
The sedimenter normally resides on the chassis as well. If you follow the line from your fuel tank, does it go directly to the pump? If you locate a splice in it somewhere, I'd bet that is the location where it was removed from.

The cold weather spec. injector pumps put more fuel in at startup, essentially. At cranking speed the pump turns at around 100 rprm, and at that setting on its control rack it delivers about 15% more fuel than a regular pump. At all other rpm's, the cold spec. pump puts out the same quantity of fuel as a regular pump.

To get a cold weather spec. pump, your best bet would be from a Canadian truck (no H's to be found, unless an offshore import, which would probably not be to cold weather specs., though you can get a hold of 2H's and 12h-t's that set up for cold climate).

There's also the high altitude compensator, fited to some 2H's - I'm not sure about H engines though.

You can test your priming pump to see if it develops adequate pressure or not.
 
Like I said earlier, they did NOT have discs in Central America in 1980. I was at an auction for FJ45's from the electric utility here in Guatemala about a year and a half ago. They had 4-5 FJ45's there and EVERY ONE was a drum brake setup and some were 1979 and some were 1980. If that truck has discs they were added on by the PO. Drums DON'T need a booster because they automatically tighten themselves up (increase braking action) when the wheels are turning while the brakes are applied.
There are trucks into the '90's here that run 4 wheel drums!!
Now, I thought the main point of the brake booster was to lighten the physical effort needed at the pedal to brake the vehicle.

My 47 series came with 4 wheel drums, and it is now going to have 4 wheel discs. The rear drums were fitted with 2.5" shoes and have single cylinders, while the front are dual cylinder and have 3" shoes. The truck came with a brake booster, which is stock as far as I know. I'll be changing mine for a 60 series booster since the discs are now going on.
 
I think CG is right on here. The front axle has some *fabricated* perches under it that are definitely not from the US. I'm sure wondering if they swapped axles in Honduras at some point. It might explain the interesting suspension they added in the rear (think of an air bag setup, but with hard rubber--or something--most of what's left is the plates welded to the axle).

For me, I guess the real question is what should I do with it? Seems like if I could find a 12V alternator with vacuum pump that I might as well keep the booster and discs. I don't mind drums (although I've not worked much with the Toyota drums), so they will definitely stay on the rear, but I'm not too sure about the front. The truck won't be on HUGE tires (I'm thinking 33s at the largest), it won't be routinely hauling massive loads, and it won't be doing crazy rock crawling. It'll end up with some low speed highway use, and the occasional trail. I don't tend to use my brakes much anyway, so I'm most concerned about basic driveability and reliability.

One way or the other it'll be rebuilt, and I understand the LC cylinders are mucho dinero.

Dan
 
Wow!!!
You have been very busy since I last checked the board. I'm glad someone is taking the time to restore it. I saw this truck pretty much daily for the past 6 years. It was sad to see it just sit there. I tried talking the PO into working on it but he just did not have the time.
Now, I get to see the build. Very cool. Good luck with it.
 
It might pay to look at fitting a 2H 12V alternator. I don't think it would be a major job to modify the bracket if needed. cheers
 
I know the 2h alternator will fit no problems. I just put one in mine. The problem may be getting it with the vacuum pump attached. The one I have didn't come with it. The electrical hook ups are also different so be prepared to do some wiring to get it to charge correctly, not a big thing, but its not a plug and play if you know what I mean. The brackets fit fine. The other thing you will need is the plumping for the vacuum pump for lubrication. Not easy to find that stuff, but it is buildable if you want to piece it together. I had no luck finding toyota or even after market lines. If you want to avoid doing that you could run an electric pump for vacuum and leave the alternator in there. I know in my "H" fsm it shows the early h's with no vacuum pump on the back. The electric pumps are pricey but could work for you if this current alternator charges the system fine. I found one at summit racing.
 
The 2H pumps often come up on Oz Ebay and are readily available fom the wreckers.I have bought a spare on ebay for $60.00 with the pump attached. The hose is available from Toyota for aproximately $60.00 ,I changed mine when I fitted my turbo. In Oz firms like Pirtek and evzed will make up these hoses cheaper.
http://www.pirtek.com.au/
http://www.tescorp.com.au/enzed.html
Picture for comparison, cheers
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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landcruiser-...ryZ10428QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landcruiser-...ryZ10428QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
 
Now, I thought the main point of the brake booster was to lighten the physical effort needed at the pedal to brake the vehicle.

That is correct, but with drums the booster would be optional because of the way drum brakes work, with discs it's essential since there is NO WAY you can develop enough pressure on your own.

I think CG is right on here. The front axle has some *fabricated* perches under it that are definitely not from the US. I'm sure wondering if they swapped axles in Honduras at some point. It might explain the interesting suspension they added in the rear (think of an air bag setup, but with hard rubber--or something--most of what's left is the plates welded to the axle).

You'd be surprised what you might find! My FJ45LV had spring hangers from an FJ55 welded on at the pin end of the front spring. The problem is they were both either left or right hangers and they ended up about an inch out from each other, ie: one was an inch further to the front than the other! I removed those and found some FJ40 hangers at the wrecker (they are the same as the FJ45LV) and bolted them on in the original holes.
EVERY spring on the FJ45LV was different when I got it! Fortunately I was able to find a set of proper FJ45LV springs for it. They fit MUCH better since the old springs didn't put the axle in the right spot under the shock towers either.
They do a LOT of weird fabrication here in Central America!
 
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I'm stuck on the road in training for nearly a month, but I did think quickly enough to pack a FSM for the body and chassis. Comparing what's in there to the pictures of my truck is not only all that is keeping me sane, but it's amazing at what was/wasn't changed.

The brake booster and the vacuum source for it is simply amazing to me. I can't imagine anyone thinking it would be an acceptable arrangement.

Are there ways to identify the axle as a 40 axle easily, or do I have to physically measure it? I'm almost curious if they swapped a 60 axle on there or something.

Now that I think about it, I haven't pulled the rear wheels off (or their hub covers) to double check that it is a full floater. I can't imagine that it wouldn't be, but you never know...

I'm sure when I take a wrench to it and start putting the parts in piles that I'll really get an education!

Dan
 
Dan,
You do not have a full floater and you do not have a 60 front end. It must be a later model 40 front end that was installed either in Honduras or Boston. It was definitely not installed by Greg, the previous owner. Hope that helps.
 
Appreciate it GC.

Greg said he hadn't done much of anything to it, let alone swap axles so I figured that whatever had been done had been done in Honduras. And the rust patterns on it just didn't support the idea that it was done in Colorado! :)

The full floater is the correct factory rear axle on the HJ-45, correct? Or were there diesels delievered without them?

The swapped axle(s) would explain the *interesting* brake line work though!

Dan
 

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