What did I get into, just bought with over 1/4 million miles odometer.

[2001LC]

Hey guy's I just bought a 2000 with over 1/4 million miles on the odometer. It's clean with no rust, was used mostly for short trips (soccer mom).

No leaks, Oil changed regular with non synthetic 20W-50, T-belt done at 180K, and not much else done. I am a believer in the 100 as one of the best vehicle ever built, one where regular maintenance can keep it going for a very long time. But this is a lot of none highway miles. Was this a bad idea on my part, concerned it may be a money pit.

Should I be concerned with this many miles from short trip: What should I look for?
Coolant flushed at best once with T-belt job if at all: what should i look for?
Wheel bearings repacked once: What's a good test without pulling apart?
Oil viscosity higher then recommended in mild climate: What issues could this cause?
New tires on rears old (worn tread) on fronts: How do I tell if transfer case or differentials damaged?
Transmission pan drop and clean once but other than that not flushed: What's a good trany test?
Differentials flush once maybe: What a good test here?

What else should I look for or expect to repair other than OEM recommended scheduled maintenance?

Exhaust manifolds and ECU never done.

 

[super90]

Just out of curiosity, what do 2000 model TLC's with 250k mi. on the clock, clean with no rust tend to go for?

 

[TTO5]

$7500-9,000 depending on how clean it is.

 

[2001LC]

^you're in the ball park, KBB is a good guide line.

 

[Sandroad]

I test drove a '01 at a local dealer just for the fun of it a few months ago. It had over 250,000 miles and was amazingly tight and smooth. Really didn't feel any different than my '04 with only 100,000 miles. I was tempted to buy it and have two! For yours, probably don't worry about the last 250,000 and concentrate on the next 250,000. All fluids, all lubes, all filters, tires, plugs, all cleanings inside and out, battery; the usual baselining stuff and enjoy it.

 

[DJWUZJ]

For the cost, just go ahead and do the bearing service, power steering drain/fill, and coolant flush. Don't forget to lube your spindle bushing when you're in doing the bearings.

Don't flush the trans, just cycle 4.2 quarts every time you do oil changes with a.simple drain and fill.

For most of your tests, there are none. Drain and fill all fluids, including diffs, etc.

As far as testing the transfer case and tranny, just drive it.

Don't try to test your CDL on pavement - you could break it.

This site has a wealth of knowledge - there are procedures out there for everything you've mentioned, and prescribed above.

 

[Junglejack]

It seems that 300,000 miles tends to be a dividing line with these trucks starting to need spendier repairs. Feels utterly absurd writing that last sentence BTW.

That must have been a crapton of soccer runs if it was mostly city mileage. Obvs would be better if it was a HWY sled.

 

[2001LC]

^ I'm still scratching my head over the miles being soccer mom. Taking PO word on that indicates a lot of cold starts A LOT.... This is my biggest concern.

Why do you say 300,000 seem to be dividing line? Can you point to anything to justify that statement, not picking on you just asking.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You've got a zillion questions going on so far. As others have suggested, I would baseline the all of the fluids. Beyond that, drive it. Take note of what seems off and address it as it comes.

300k is nearing engine rebuild time. You won't find that in the owner's manual or on Toyota's maintenance schedule. That many miles is a lot for a consumer vehicle, well beyond what a lot of other makes would ever expect to see. So with that, preventative maintenance at that time will keep it going for another 300k.

 

[2001LC]

For the cost, just go ahead and do the bearing service, power steering drain/fill, and coolant flush. Don't forget to lube your spindle bushing when you're in doing the bearings.

Don't flush the trans, just cycle 4.2 quarts every time you do oil changes with a.simple drain and fill.

For most of your tests, there are none. Drain and fill all fluids, including diffs, etc.

As far as testing the transfer case and tranny, just drive it.

Don't try to test your CDL on pavement - you could break it.

This site has a wealth of knowledge - there are procedures out there for everything you've mentioned, and prescribed above.

Thanks I do plan on baselining over the summer, with all synthetic and considering using the newer LL coolant if I can figure how to get ever drop of old coolant out. A little concerned switching to synthetic after so many miles, but these 100 are tight hopefully I'll not get any leaks.

For the spindle bearing I'll probable pull to inspected, although, I plan on buying the tool form Slee to do my 2001, a real time saver. I've been reusing my old wheel bearings using a higher than recommended torque but recently notice in the FSM that they recommend replacing during servicing.

I for one will do a full 13 qt flush on the trany, for two reasons: 1st) I don't know what fluid or mix currently is in and don't like mixing fluids. 2nd) I've always been in the camp that if I was to even drain and fill 4.2 qt 10 times it will not be as clean and fresh as one full flush. I change fluids because old lubes break down & carrier contaminates. Can't see how leaving ~70% old in is a good idea.

 

[Junglejack]

The 300,000

^ I'm still scratching my head over the miles being soccer mom. Taking PO word on that indicates a lot of cold starts A LOT.... This is my biggest concern.

Why do you say 300,000 seem to be dividing line? Can you point to anything to justify that statement, not picking on you just asking.

The 300,000 mark being a dividing line might perhaps be anecdotal, but it does seem to be a mileage where more replacing of OEM parts becomes a reality. That is , you can purchase a meticulously maintained 100 Series approaching that mileage and still be looking at the real possibility of a $1000k plus repair at any given time. Not to say it is not advantageous to operate under this expectation whenevs a warranty is not involved. Just from what I have seen and read that should I keep mine that long that is when I expect things to get real expensive.

 

[2001LC]

You've got a zillion questions going on so far. As others have suggested, I would baseline the all of the fluids. Beyond that, drive it. Take note of what seems off and address it as it comes.

300k is nearing engine rebuild time. You won't find that in the owner's manual or on Toyota's maintenance schedule. That many miles is a lot for a consumer vehicle, well beyond what a lot of other makes would ever expect to see. So with that, preventative maintenance at that time will keep it going for another 300k.

Hey Trunk Monkey, thanks for stopping by. 300K is a lot and we've seen even more here in mud. Can you point to any rebuilds in that range?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I know of 2 within my own club, and if you Google Tundra/Sequoia rebuilds, you'll find more in that range. The other option is of course not to rebuild, wait for a catastrophic failure, and just replace with a new or used motor.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks, I consider your club observation invaluable. Just to be clear; your club, your writing about some of the toughest off road mudder's know to man...

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Not sure how to take that, but I'm talking about Wasatch Cruisers. Paul May of Equipt and one other guy that's not on Mud specifically. Paul's truck was a ring failure at around 280k in cylinder 6, the other one was preventative maintenance by the owner at around 310k along with timing belt #3.

 

[2001LC]

Meant that with all respect, so please take it with pride: off roader's tend to really test the limits of the 100 2uzfe. Was/is Paul May meticulous with maintenance?

Let me ask this specific question to my OP: What effect may I expect to see with the use of higher viscosity oil the recommended 5W-30 if any (no oil leaks found and assume lower MGP)?

Not finding much on this 300k rebuild issue when I google. Did see a post:
"The Tundra motor is US made and has the "i-Force" designation. The LC motor is Japanese made. There are many differences between them - cast vs. forged for example. *******.
I bought an LC based on reliability and durability, not based on engine replacement. Buying a vehicle with planned engine replacement in mind is Ford or Chevy talk."

I too bought an LC based on reliability and durability, not based on engine replacement.

 

[Ole Colony]

I am at 311k. I have had it for almost two years. Changed the timing belt, water pump, tees and radiator when I got it. The suspension was shot so added iron man lift. Starter and fuel pump went out. It is paid for so costly repairs are still cheaper than a note.

I drove it to Southern Cruiser Crawl which was about a seven hour drive. Wheeled it all weekend and drove home.

Engine is strong and easy on oil. Don't sweat it and enjoy.

 

[lizardking100]

I too bought an LC based on reliability and durability, not based on engine replacement.

You bought 14 year old vehicle with a 0.25m on the clock. If it took a dump tomorrow it's already proven its reliability and durability. It's not going to take a dump, but in the next 100k miles you will be entering the vague threshold of "service life" with respect to a variety of components. The vagueness is due to the anecdotal nature of the data and the small sample size. The data will improve as the series ages. To that end, just follow the advice above about fluids/maintenance and drive the hell out of it. Also, don't flush your transmission.

FWIW, I think you'd be hard pressed to find a petrol engine, in the history of petrol engines, that is longer lasting than the Japanese built 4.7.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Let me ask this specific question to my OP: What effect may I expect to see with the use of higher viscosity oil the recommended 5W-30 if any (no oil leaks found and assume lower MGP)?

From Mobil:
Question:
Is it Okay to Use a Higher Viscosity Oil Than What's Recommended for a Vehicle?
I recently changed my oil to 15W-50 Mobil 1 Extended Performance. I have an old 1990 Toyota 4 Runner with 275,000 miles, rebuilt 75,000 miles ago. I discovered this web site after changing the oil myself and discovered you recommend 10W-30 Extended Performances. Do you recommend I change the oil to the recommended viscosity? What are the trade-offs of leaving the 15W-50 in my 4-Runner? I live in southern California where it gets hot, so I assumed (wrongly, it appears) that a higher viscosity would give better protection.
-- Frankie Duran, El Cajon, CA

Answer:
Either Mobil 1 viscosity grade will provide outstanding protection and performance. For an older vehicle there is a occasional benefit sometimes in using higher viscosity grade oil especially if you are beginning to use more oil due to normal wear and tear of a high mileage vehicle. If your vehicle is not consuming much oil switching to a lower viscosity oil such as a 10W-30, or even 5W-30, can provide you some fuel savings as these lower viscosity oils can provide better fuel economy. And because of the Mobil 1's reputation, you can be assured of excellent protection even at these lower viscosities.

 

[2001LC]

Ah great Monkey, thanks. Just what I hope to hear. The PO said it did not use any oil but I'll change to 5W-30 and see if maybe he changed for a reason. From Paul May's experience I'd think a leak down test would be a good idea during baseline, that and oil pressure test.