What brake bleader are you using? (1 Viewer)

[Snowrydr01]

This isnt about the process, thats been covered, this is about what tool you are using.

Most of my l my life, like many, i have used the friend pumping the break method but I am at a age where myself and all my friends have very young kids so its not that easy to get a helper.

Do you guys like to pressurize at the reservoir or vacuum from the bleeder? There is a bunch on here about speed bleeders but something about that just seems weird to me that i cant get past.

 

[oakback]

I've had good success with my Motive brake bleeder on my older Ford, and plan to use it with my LC as well. It has a cap that replaces the brake fluid reservoir cap, with a hose that leads to a pressurized (by hand pump) canister of fluid. So you just put it on, pump it up, then crack the bleeder and wait.

 

[cmck]

I just rebuilt all calipers, replaced pads and rotors. I used speedbleeders Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder and they worked well. I did all the work solo and used their tube and bag to catch the fluid. One note is that the front factory bleeder has a clearance issue and thus has a much taller area to put a wrench on. I made do, but consider that.

 

[montegofd3s]

This one

 

[uHu]

With the brake booster pump, the 100 is soo easy to bleed that you need only the simplest type of kit. A short piece of neoprene hose onto the bleeder, then a clear hose down into a bottle, with a one-way valve. The clear hose is so that you can see what's going on.
On the rears, you can just jam the brake pedal with a piece of something, leave the ignition on, and bleed until the cows come home. The booster pump will keep supplying until the reservoir is empty. (So, at the rear you don't even need that one-way valve). Up front, you do have to pump the pedal, but the supply is copious, so it's quick. It is easiest with an assistant, but doable on your own because of the one-way valve.

 

[Snowrydr01]

so i ended up getting a motive bleeder. Its on the list of Baselining to happen one night this week, i will feedback my results.

 

[Muddy Bean]

With the brake booster pump, the 100 is soo easy to bleed that you need only the simplest type of kit. A short piece of neoprene hose onto the bleeder, then a clear hose down into a bottle, with a one-way valve. The clear hose is so that you can see what's going on.
On the rears, you can just jam the brake pedal with a piece of something, leave the ignition on, and bleed until the cows come home. The booster pump will keep supplying until the reservoir is empty. (So, at the rear you don't even need that one-way valve). Up front, you do have to pump the pedal, but the supply is copious, so it's quick. It is easiest with an assistant, but doable on your own because of the one-way valve.

THIS ^

It's what I do every time I bleed. Don't waste money on a kit. This is easy as pie.

 

[cwmoser]

Not entirely sure I follow the bleeding process.
Is this the process? Use turkey baster to suck out most of the brake fluid
in the reservoir, fill reservoir with new fluid. Put cap back on reservoir.
Turn ignition to ON but not start vehicle. Start with right rear calipher and
connect hose to capture fluid, open valve till no bubbles and clean fluid.
Then ditto for left rear. Next , at right front connect hose and feed to bottle.
Pump brake and then go around and check hose for no bubbles and that
it has clean fluid. Then do similar for left front.

Is this the process?
(BTW, I have never bleed or flushed brakes - just going from what I read here
and watching videos on You Tube)

 

[cmck]

I have done it once and followed the basic procedure you have listed. It worked for me. I can't help with real wisdom about any finer points or avoid doing this.

 

[uHu]

Not entirely sure I follow the bleeding process.
Is this the process? Use turkey baster to suck out most of the brake fluid
in the reservoir, fill reservoir with new fluid. Put cap back on reservoir.
Turn ignition to ON but not start vehicle. Start with right rear calipher and
connect hose to capture fluid, open valve till no bubbles and clean fluid.
Then ditto for left rear. Next , at right front connect hose and feed to bottle.
Pump brake and then go around and check hose for no bubbles and that
it has clean fluid. Then do similar for left front.
Is this the process?

Yes, that's about it. Only that if you're alone, you won't see that there are no bubbles, as without watching what comes out, you can't say if the air in the hose is new or old, as the air present in the hose tends to stay where it is, at the top.

You can, if alone, first give a couple of pumps with an open front bleeder; then close the bleeder and jam the pedal down, and then open the bleeder (with the pressure on) to see what comes out, which should, by then, be nice and clean.