What amount of Parking brake movement is normal? (1 Viewer)

[lclb99]

When I park the truck and pull the brake on an incline it lurches forward a significant amount. It feels like way too much movement. I can also accidentally back out of the driveway with the parking brake on without noticing.
This means the shoes need to be adjusted?Or does the cable need to be tightened?
I found a video about this on YouTube but the users problem was that the parking brake indicator wasn’t even registering. Mine will register but but just feels like it has way too much play. I don’t like to take my foot off the brake and lurch backward that has got to be bad for the truck right? I want to get this figured out before towing the boat this summer. Thank you!

 

[badlander]

From the FSM, brake section:

PARKING BRAKE LEVER
ON-VEHICLE INSPECTION
1. CHECK PARKING BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL
Pull the parking brake lever all the way up, and count the num-
ber of clicks.
Parking brake lever travel at 196 N (20 kgf, 44 lbf):
4 - 6 clicks
If incorrect, adjust the parking brake.

 

[2001LC]

The E-brake even properly adjusted, as day from factory. Will not stop movement, when transmission engage engine running.

When parked, roll is a PITA. Some have more roll than others. Why?

First, the E-brake handle should pull up 4 to 6 clicks. If more, adjustment is needed.

We've basically 3 adjustments.

1. First is almost never done. It's likely, in-part, why we get excessive roll, once e-brake set. It's a shim, that is part or shoe assembly. Toyota has ~6 sizes of shims (thicknesses), to set proper gap. This is the most overlook part of e-brake assembly. I've not tested this. But currently, I'm thinking it is key to reducing roll.
2. Second we set shoe to drum gap. This is by turning star adjustor, until shoe holds drum (rotor). Than back off 8 clicks.
3. Third is setting cable tension, and bell crack stop. In that we take up slack by adjusting cable crossing rear diff axle housing. Taking slack when we can't see cable inside of drum, is a bit tricky!

Tip:
With foot on brake pedal. Shift to N and pull E-brake handle. Release foot off brake pedal while in N, and keep pulling E-brake handle until roll stops. Than shift to P. Why do we take up slack, this way. If we keep using transmission to stop roll, rather than e-brake. It wears transmission P lock-out and roll will get longer and longer, before P lock holds. This can eventually weaken P lock to point of failure.

 

[Ayune]

My sequence is: Stop with foot brake, engage E-brake, shift to N, release foot brake and let truck settle. Now truck is being held 100% by E-brake. Only then do I shift into P.

Be nice to our transmissions and they’ll be nice to us.

 

[SteveH]

After following all the careful factory parking brake adjustment procedures to little avail, I just adjusted the threaded 'adjuster' until I could barely install the drum over the p-brake shoes. (This is 'step 2' in 2000LC's method above.) This resulted in a 4-6 clicks and a death-grip parking brake. Ahh - success.

Always drive the truck a bit after adjusting and be sure things aren't red-hot in the rear brake area due to over-adjusting.

 

[lclb99]

Thanks everyone I tried the above steps and when i neutral it just rolls away we are going to take the wheels off and adjust the shoes tomorrow hopefully nothing in there is broken because I definitely have zero parking brake

 

[willyroo]

Toyota's engineering, especially for the 100 series, is very very good...except they must have been out to lunch, or left early on Friday, when it came to the handbrake. Yes you can adjust so it (sort of) holds, however doesn't take long for it to start slipping. If you know you need to rely on your handbrake, it might be worth looking at a Dogbone... -> Road Runner dogbone for 100 series

 

[LJE]

After following all the careful factory parking brake adjustment procedures to little avail, I just adjusted the threaded 'adjuster' until I could barely install the drum over the p-brake shoes. (This is 'step 2' in 2000LC's method above.) This resulted in a 4-6 clicks and a death-grip parking brake. Ahh - success.

Always drive the truck a bit after adjusting and be sure things aren't red-hot in the rear brake area due to over-adjusting.

That last step (drive to check the parking brake isn't overly tight) is definitely critical!
I made the mistake of not doing that on a vehicle before, and it wasn't until I got to town (~10ish minutes) and got out and noticed that something smelled hot that realized my mistake. Luckily nothing ruined, but a good lesson for sure.

 

[lclb99]

Thank you all for the help! It is nice and tight now and I will pay attention to when it seems to be getting loose again, it was actually a very easy adjustment just took a little fiddling - actually had to do it twice because we backed it off too much the first time for fear of having it too tight

 

[2001LC]

After following all the careful factory parking brake adjustment procedures to little avail, I just adjusted the threaded 'adjuster' until I could barely install the drum over the p-brake shoes. (This is 'step 2' in 2000LC's method above.) This resulted in a 4-6 clicks and a death-grip parking brake. Ahh - success.

Always drive the truck a bit after adjusting and be sure things aren't red-hot in the rear brake area due to over-adjusting.

To make sure we're clear on procedure:

When removing or installing rotor/drum. The star adjustor (threaded adjustor) is back-off. This is to say, loosened and kept loose (collapse, so no thread exposed), so shoe are backed away from drum.

To remove rotor. We must first backing off shoes from drum, before removing rotor/drum. This is done, so shoes don't get hung up on drum. Which, if they get hung up, can damage components. Components like; hold down cup, pin and backing plate.

The star adjust is kept loose, when installing rotor. This again is so shoe do not get hung up on drum.

Once rotor/drum on. Star adjustor is turned to expand it, until shoe make sung contact with drum. At this point rotor/drum will not turn. Then back adjust off 8 clicks.

At this point brake handle should travel 4-6 clicks with 44lbf of pull force. If not correct we then adjust cable.