What are you working on? (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter crawlin40
- Start date
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@VA.CRUISER
This is the set up I bought from Amazon:
Angela&Alex Pressure Washer Sandblasting Kit, 5000 PSI Wet Sandblaster Attachment with Goggle, 1/4 Inch Quick Disconnect Sandblasting Kit
Its alright, not the best, not the worst, makes a mess and is not very accurate. I changed out the red hose it came with with some clear hose in the same size and got better hose clamps because the ones in the kit are junk.
I feel this is good for larger areas or on something that you don't have to be too precise with. But it did get the job done.
The one thing I noticed and will probably remember for the next time around if I end up refinishing these wheels again or another set of wheel, the metal itself is very pours underneath the paint. I think either a skim layer of body filler or some kind of enamel paint (maybe) needs to go down first. I did about 5 coats of primer and 6 coats of paint and the spots that were heavily corroded and that I blasted just kept sucking the paint in more and more, even the clear as well. So these wheels aren't turning out the best but will be better then the wheels I have currently on the car. I will get pictures posted later for reference.
Played yesterday, so put some work in today and took a BIG step forward. Also learned a few hard lessons, don't put in a rear stud to help line things up, there isn't enough clearance in the rear to drop the head properly. Don't forget to thread the wiring harness through the lower intake when dropping the head back down .. ugh.
Progress ...
![20200913_132609[1].jpg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1920' height='1080' viewBox%3D'0 0 1920 1080'%2F%3E "20200913_132609[1].jpg")
Went a different way this time ... just in case a SC falls from the sky or I decide to hit up Joey at Wit's End for a turbo kit.
Finally, after 17 long years of feeding it and making it big and strong, that effort and expense paid off. Got to watch and supervise the 55ft/lb and 80ft/lb passes. It's so much easier this way.
Happiness is the hard part being done ... I hope.
Progress ...
Went a different way this time ... just in case a SC falls from the sky or I decide to hit up Joey at Wit's End for a turbo kit.
Finally, after 17 long years of feeding it and making it big and strong, that effort and expense paid off. Got to watch and supervise the 55ft/lb and 80ft/lb passes. It's so much easier this way.
Happiness is the hard part being done ... I hope.
@YotaFun thanks for the feedback and info
My speedometer cable broke last time I was at Rausch (actually 10mi from home on the way to Rausch) so I set out to fix it.
I love FJ40’s - 2 screws, a clip, and a couple knurled thumb screws and the whole dash is out and the cables were pulled.
Unfortunately my truck is one of the “unique” years that ran a two piece speedometer cable with a second odometer and a “speed marker” junction box to monitor EGR service intervals. The two piece cable is NLA, which means I had to get creative routing a one-piece cable from the dash, past the V8 exhaust back to the transfer case.
After much trial and error I think I have an ugly, but effective solution.
I repurposed the cable mount that used to hold the speedometer cable across the top of the firewall, mounted it off the brake booster with a second clip lower on the firewall. From there the cable runs parallel to the emergency brake cable back to the T-case. There’s one more mount of the transmission, but it was only designed for a single cable so I’ll need to come up with something more functional to hold two cables there.
Before installation I lubed it up good with “Kable Ease.” Never used it before so we will see if the cable holds up...
while I was in there I replaced all the dash lights with LED’s:
I installed a blue LED in my headlight knob that, up until recently, I had no idea was supposed to light up. So assuming the socket still works this will be the first time it has lit up in at least 10 years.
I just need to hook the battery back up and see how everything works. With luck the dash will be bright enough to see at night - instead of looking like someone lit a zippo behind the gauges.
After that I can (hopefully) get back to the fender flares and the dozen or so other projects I need to wrap up before Fall Crawl.
I love FJ40’s - 2 screws, a clip, and a couple knurled thumb screws and the whole dash is out and the cables were pulled.
Unfortunately my truck is one of the “unique” years that ran a two piece speedometer cable with a second odometer and a “speed marker” junction box to monitor EGR service intervals. The two piece cable is NLA, which means I had to get creative routing a one-piece cable from the dash, past the V8 exhaust back to the transfer case.
After much trial and error I think I have an ugly, but effective solution.
I repurposed the cable mount that used to hold the speedometer cable across the top of the firewall, mounted it off the brake booster with a second clip lower on the firewall. From there the cable runs parallel to the emergency brake cable back to the T-case. There’s one more mount of the transmission, but it was only designed for a single cable so I’ll need to come up with something more functional to hold two cables there.
Before installation I lubed it up good with “Kable Ease.” Never used it before so we will see if the cable holds up...
while I was in there I replaced all the dash lights with LED’s:
I installed a blue LED in my headlight knob that, up until recently, I had no idea was supposed to light up. So assuming the socket still works this will be the first time it has lit up in at least 10 years.
I just need to hook the battery back up and see how everything works. With luck the dash will be bright enough to see at night - instead of looking like someone lit a zippo behind the gauges.
After that I can (hopefully) get back to the fender flares and the dozen or so other projects I need to wrap up before Fall Crawl.
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Took the truck out for a quick spin this morning. The good news is - I have dash lights and a speedometer again. The bad news - I no longer have headlights (again). This seems to be becoming an ongoing issue. Every time I do any electric testing or drain the battery in the slightest, I lose the low beam headlights. High beams work as they should. Parking lights (first position on the headlight switch) works fine. Dash dimmer works fine. Last time, the low beams came back with no real explanation after a quick drive (I figured I'd just "recharged" the battery to a point I could trigger the relays, even though from an electrical sense this shouldn't have mattered as i had plenty of "juice" to start the truck.
I'm not seeing any other weird light issues that would indicate a bad ground, plus the IPF harness grounds directly to the battery. The fact that I have high beams suggests the relays should be working ok. So where does that leave me? The switch? If everything else on the switch looks good is it possible that a single contact position could be bad, or would the whole switch fail?
I'm not seeing any other weird light issues that would indicate a bad ground, plus the IPF harness grounds directly to the battery. The fact that I have high beams suggests the relays should be working ok. So where does that leave me? The switch? If everything else on the switch looks good is it possible that a single contact position could be bad, or would the whole switch fail?
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Pretty sure I found my culprit despite my cave-man level understanding of electricity. After some fishing around with a multi meter I came to the conclusion that the problem lay in the ARB/IPF headlight harness. The harness uses 3 relays to direct the electricity to high and low beams. Not sure how or why, but two of the three relays are the same part number, so I swapped them, and found I now had low beams, but no high beams.
Further analysis (vigorous shaking) of the two relays determined that one of them had a bunch of crap rattling around inside where the other one did not. I plugged the not-rattling one back in and found it still worked. So, by process of elimination I’ve determined I blew a relay in my 4 year old headlight harness.
45-year-old OEM Toyota Harness and switches 1, 4 year old aftermarket harness 0.
Further analysis (vigorous shaking) of the two relays determined that one of them had a bunch of crap rattling around inside where the other one did not. I plugged the not-rattling one back in and found it still worked. So, by process of elimination I’ve determined I blew a relay in my 4 year old headlight harness.
45-year-old OEM Toyota Harness and switches 1, 4 year old aftermarket harness 0.
brian
SILVER Star
Yeah I'm actually looking forward to it. I have the headlight switch out again trying to diagnose the headlight issue so I haven't actually seen them at night yet. Whats with the weird green glow?
Decided to do a little beauty update to the Lexus. (Bottom 1/4 of the car)
The paint job on it is junk. The car use to be a beautiful emerald green, and after the accident it was in the previous owner had it painted white but must have got a friends special since none of the old paint was prepped correctly and it is starting to chip up everywhere. I think its a nice little touch, almost gives the car the older fairlady style (that is a stretch in description I know)
Finally had the new tires mounted to the wheels:
And drove it to work:
I'll get some better pictures later. but the car sits about 2 inches higher than before. The car had 225/45R17 which is about an inch shorter than factory, and now has 225/55R17 that is an inch higher than stock. I feel it has a really nice stance now (but I like all things lifted...) and is so much easier to get in and out of now. And the vibration I had 60 on up is gone! It is not as smooth as glass but it is so much more better and I actually enjoy driving the car even more now.
This will probably be my new daily to save putting mileage on the Tundra, everything in the car works now, everything including the heated seats and the rear defrost (weird things to mention I know). The only other things I would really like to do is put in a different head unit with android auto at least and an exhaust system which will probably be a next spring or summer project since I would like to do headers back and build my own.
@VA.CRUISER these pictures don't do it justice but this is what I mean by pours on the wheels:
Still feels sandy and unfinished even though there is multiple coats of primer, paint and clear.
The paint job on it is junk. The car use to be a beautiful emerald green, and after the accident it was in the previous owner had it painted white but must have got a friends special since none of the old paint was prepped correctly and it is starting to chip up everywhere. I think its a nice little touch, almost gives the car the older fairlady style (that is a stretch in description I know)
Finally had the new tires mounted to the wheels:
And drove it to work:
I'll get some better pictures later. but the car sits about 2 inches higher than before. The car had 225/45R17 which is about an inch shorter than factory, and now has 225/55R17 that is an inch higher than stock. I feel it has a really nice stance now (but I like all things lifted...) and is so much easier to get in and out of now. And the vibration I had 60 on up is gone! It is not as smooth as glass but it is so much more better and I actually enjoy driving the car even more now.
This will probably be my new daily to save putting mileage on the Tundra, everything in the car works now, everything including the heated seats and the rear defrost (weird things to mention I know). The only other things I would really like to do is put in a different head unit with android auto at least and an exhaust system which will probably be a next spring or summer project since I would like to do headers back and build my own.
@VA.CRUISER these pictures don't do it justice but this is what I mean by pours on the wheels:
Still feels sandy and unfinished even though there is multiple coats of primer, paint and clear.
brian
SILVER Star
the under dash light and heater control lights are green.
Heater control lights? You mean you don't just have to reach blindly into the abyss to change from right-leg scorching to hot wind in face to mediocre-at-best defrost? What's the fun in that?
brian
SILVER Star
i fancy the finer things in life...power brakes, a clutch pedal and dash lights.
I’ll bet your clutch pedal even has the rubber grip on it...
But seriously where does the heater control light even mount? Is dash/heater control just the one light under the dash pad? Or are there two lights?
brian
SILVER Star
There are two lights.
Is the light in that weird little slit with the screws? I'll have to see if that's even there on my truck, I don't recognize it...also, are those bullets in your heater vent?
brian
SILVER Star
correct on both counts....moon clip with 9mm
Thanks @YotaFun I won’t be as concerned because mine will be on the crawler so rocks will chew on them anyway some but nice tips for cleaning/paintingDecided to do a little beauty update to the Lexus. (Bottom 1/4 of the car)
The paint job on it is junk. The car use to be a beautiful emerald green, and after the accident it was in the previous owner had it painted white but must have got a friends special since none of the old paint was prepped correctly and it is starting to chip up everywhere. I think its a nice little touch, almost gives the car the older fairlady style (that is a stretch in description I know)
Finally had the new tires mounted to the wheels:
And drove it to work:
I'll get some better pictures later. but the car sits about 2 inches higher than before. The car had 225/45R17 which is about an inch shorter than factory, and now has 225/55R17 that is an inch higher than stock. I feel it has a really nice stance now (but I like all things lifted...) and is so much easier to get in and out of now. And the vibration I had 60 on up is gone! It is not as smooth as glass but it is so much more better and I actually enjoy driving the car even more now.
This will probably be my new daily to save putting mileage on the Tundra, everything in the car works now, everything including the heated seats and the rear defrost (weird things to mention I know). The only other things I would really like to do is put in a different head unit with android auto at least and an exhaust system which will probably be a next spring or summer project since I would like to do headers back and build my own.
@VA.CRUISER these pictures don't do it justice but this is what I mean by pours on the wheels:
Still feels sandy and unfinished even though there is multiple coats of primer, paint and clear.
You notice the bullets. I saw the pad lock and have questions about it now. Vintage anti theft system?
