What are these?

[AirheadNut]

Thank you AirheadNut. After the compression test, I shared the results with my friend who owns the compression kit. He told me then that his 13B showed 250 across the board just after the machine shop rebuilt it and it runs great. Perhaps the gauges are faulty or those numbers are low because he didn't have the engine warm or the engine needs a rebuild.

I did a little more research and read something about if an engine was flooded, it would wash away the oil from the cylinder walls and also give a low compression reading. Weeks ago, I was trying to start it and my primer pump was bad so I was pouring fuel into the intake. It would start but only run for a second or so because it was running out of fuel. So I poured more in until it almost hydrolocked (didn't know this could happen until I asked someone later). So perhaps that could be contribuing to the low readings. It still doesn't explain the one cylinder that was lower than the others.

Researched a little more and read that the engine should be warm. It was not. The engine is out of the truck and I have no water running to it so I can't warm it up right now. I am going to do a wet compression test and post the numbers. My understainding is that if the rings are bad, then the numbers should increase as I add oil to the cylinder. Also, I am probably be just restoring the oil that I washed away by flooding the engine.

Open to thoughts and recommendations. Thanks again.


Thanks.

Pouring fuel into the intake to try and start a diesel not only won't work like it does on a gasoline engine, but can easily cause serious engine damage. Diesel doesn't evaporate like gasoline does, and needs to be sprayed through an injector to be atomized enough to properly combust. Putting liquid fuel in the intake can indeed hydrolock the engine and damage internal components. The cylinder volume in a diesel at top dead center is much smaller than a comparable gasoline engine due to the compression ratio, so it takes a lot less liquid to hydrolock a diesel.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Thanks. Yesterday, I decided to try to start the 3B in the driveway in hopes to use that engine until I can rebuild the 13B. Before doing that, my buddy and I took a peek in the cylinder with a borescope. Unfortunately, we saw a crack on the 3B piston. Please see pic.

Summary:
3B-cracked piston-total rebuild or partial rebuild?
13B -hole in piston with bad main bearings- needs total rebuild

Trying to decide the next step. Since it will take a while to do the work and this was my daily driver, I am leaning towards buying a 100 series (~$8k budget) just for the daily driver in the meantime.

Open to comments or suggestions.
Thanks

Maybe I missed it, but where is the holed 13B piston?

The 13B / 13B-T is a great engine but the issue is parts supply. As far as I can see, Toyota has stopped making almost all 13B specific parts. They are a generation behind the 3Bii / 14B / 15B engines which have much better parts availability, but which share few components with the 13B. My main worry would be your cylinder head - if that is damaged beyond repair your options are basically used or maybe a Made in China replacement. Pistons and rings should be available as Japanese aftermarket items. Crank can be ground and block rebored if necessary. Rebuilding that engine will be an expensive process I'm afraid.

With the old 3B - I would just run it. Cracked pre-chambers are very common, catastrophic failure from them disintegrating is (very) rare as far as I can tell. As long as you don't put a turbocharger near it, the 3B is an incredibly reliable and long lasting engine. Hope you can get it running reliably.

Are those pieces of piston rings? And a hole melted in piston? Super high EGTs maybe?

Sorry to see this.

Where is this melted hole? If you mean the almost perfectly circular depression in the top of the piston, then no, that is not a melted hole. That's effectively the combustion chamber on a direct injection diesel which doesn't have pre-cups (hence why they are more thermally efficient and far better suited to turbo charging than an indirect injection diesel).

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Maybe I missed it, but where is the holed 13B piston?

The 13B / 13B-T is a great engine but the issue is parts supply. As far as I can see, Toyota has stopped making almost all 13B specific parts. They are a generation behind the 3Bii / 14B / 15B engines which have much better parts availability, but which share few components with the 13B. My main worry would be your cylinder head - if that is damaged beyond repair your options are basically used or maybe a Made in China replacement. Pistons and rings should be available as Japanese aftermarket items. Crank can be ground and block rebored if necessary. Rebuilding that engine will be an expensive process I'm afraid.

With the old 3B - I would just run it. Cracked pre-chambers are very common, catastrophic failure from them disintegrating is (very) rare as far as I can tell. As long as you don't put a turbocharger near it, the 3B is an incredibly reliable and long lasting engine. Hope you can get it running reliably.



Where is this melted hole? If you mean the almost perfectly circular depression in the top of the piston, then no, that is not a melted hole. That's effectively the combustion chamber on a direct injection diesel which doesn't have pre-cups (hence why they are more thermally efficient and far better suited to turbo charging than an indirect injection diesel).

Haha, I know diesel tech well, but thanks. I meant hole on edge of piston. Since then, op figured out it was a rebuild issue I think.

 

[bj70bc]

Maybe I missed it, but where is the holed 13B piston?

daylight my man, never mind the landfill in there

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Haha, I know diesel tech well, but thanks. I meant hole on edge of piston. Since then, op figured out it was a rebuild issue I think.

My bad, I was a bit too confident of my observation there - sorry for coming across as patronising. To me it looked like that dark spot against the bore was a piece of debris... but now I look at it it does look like it could be melted.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

My bad, I was a bit too confident of my observation there - sorry for coming across as patronising. To me it looked like that dark spot against the bore was a piece of debris... but now I look at it it does look like it could be melted.

No worries!

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

View attachment 3427884
daylight my man, never mind the landfill in there

I though the black bit against the bore was more junk, but now I look at it I see more crown damage and a bit of chanelling on the edge on the left of the picture.

 

[wwjdg2tp]

As for your diesel compression tester - have you got a one way valve right at the end of the bit which bolts into the head ?

I build a adapter for my 12ht once and got unsatisfying results - then cut a M6 thread into the end and fitted a schrader valve ( from a tire) The results were way better as the room for the compressed air is smaller.
Plus fully open the manifold butterfly ...No

 

[wwjdg2tp]

Unsure but here is a pic.

 

[wwjdg2tp]

Got the air bled out and 3B engine started this past weekend. Ordered a clutch kit today and planning on installing 3B. What are the bare minimum parts to assess or replace before installing the engine. Please keep in mind that I only want to replace what is necessary at this time while the engine is out with long term tentative plan to rebuild the 13B and reinstall. Only God knows when that might happen lol.

Open to comments and recommendations degarding prep work prior to 3B engine and clutch install.
Thanks

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Got the air bled out and 3B engine started this past weekend. Ordered a clutch kit today and planning on installing 3B. What are the bare minimum parts to assess or replace before installing the engine. Please keep in mind that I only want to replace what is necessary at this time while the engine is out with long term tentative plan to rebuild the 13B and reinstall. Only God knows when that might happen lol.

Open to comments and recommendations degarding prep work prior to 3B engine and clutch install.
Thanks

At an absolute minimum, check the clutch disc and pressure plate before you install the engine on the transmission to see that if is still useable.

Without stripping engine internals to check, there is nothing else I can think of that you wouldn't be able to do when the engine is installed. I would replace radiator hoses including the little crossover hose from the lower thermostat housing to the water pump.

I have a well used 3B (567 k km) and the only faults I found on it were worn oil pump drive splines and worn No.1 and No.5 camshaft bearings, though to check those you would have to do some (fairly minor) engine disassembly.

EO

 

[wwjdg2tp]

At an absolute minimum, check the clutch disc and pressure plate before you install the engine on the transmission to see that if is still useable.

Without stripping engine internals to check, there is nothing else I can think of that you wouldn't be able to do when the engine is installed. I would replace radiator hoses including the little crossover hose from the lower thermostat housing to the water pump.

I have a well used 3B (567 k km) and the only faults I found on it were worn oil pump drive splines and worn No.1 and No.5 camshaft bearings, though to check those you would have to do some (fairly minor) engine disassembly.

EO

Thank you so much!

 

[mudgudgeon]

Swap rear main seal too.

Not familiar with the 3B, but for most engines, to do it later, you have to drop transmission, or pull the engine

 

[wwjdg2tp]

Swap rear main seal too.

Not familiar with the 3B, but for most engines, to do it later, you have to drop transmission, or pull the engine

Thanks- will do.

 

[wwjdg2tp]

Thanks- will do.

Cleaned up the engine today and preparing to replace rear main seal, pilot bearing and the clutch on the 3B engine. I was inspecting the two flywheels I have. One was on the 13B engine that was in the BJ42 when I bought it and the other was on the 3B original engine that came with the BJ42 when I bought it. Sadly, when I was starting the 13B engine on the engine hoist and blocks a couple months ago, I failed to install the backing plate and chewed up some of the teeth on the flywheel which you can see in the pic.

Anyway, I need help identifying these flywheels pictured below so that I put the correct 3B flywheel back in my 3B engine. Any help identifying these flywheels would be greatly appreciated. One could be a 13B flywheel and the other a 3B or both 3B, I don't know. Also, I would appreciate any opinions on the condition of the flywheels and whether or not they are suitable to reinstall or need to be resurfaced as well as any tips on clutch, main seal and pilot bearing install. Added a pic of the engine for fun.
Thanks