What are these wires for? (1 Viewer)

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Began the engine removal process and discovered a couple of loose ends. What do these go to? The first one is a green wire with a blue bullet behind the drivers headlamp and the second one is a loose gray connector to the right of the oil filter. Thanks!
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That green wire definitely doesn't look 20 years old...
 
Green wires (green yellow, green black, green red, etc.) in the headlight area are signal bulb wires switched to hazard or turn signal in a 96 fzj80...look for a plug on the engine block for the dangling connector I don't recall which one it is but there are a couple in that area...also given that connector if attached to a loom (hard to tell from pic but I think we're talkin the same) can't reach further than the wire so it's around there somewhere it that makes sense. On a separate note that connector looks strangely clean and brand new. Hope that helps good luck.
 
There's a fog lamp switch on the dash, but no fog lamps. Don't know if that's related or not. Also, can tell a brake controller was removed.
 
So, I peeled back the tape to discover this mess. I plan on resoldering it with some high end industrial heat shrink I have.

Question: Is there any way to heat up the solder and get it completely or mostly off where I can twist the wire ends like they are fresh to get a clean repair? Thanks!
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So, I peeled back the tape to discover this mess. I plan on resoldering it with some high end industrial heat shrink I have.

Question: Is there any way to heat up the solder and get it completely or mostly off where I can twist the wire ends like they are fresh to get a clean repair? Thanks!View attachment 1055754
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I have a basic stick type soldering iron that works fine for this gauge of wire. I can heat this up and pull the wires apart after most of the solder drips off. However, the residual that is left still is rock solid and difficult to twist the 2 wires together for a clean resolder.
 
A brass or copper brush will "wick" the solder to itself, in small quantities. Only heat the conductor and solder, not the wick. If you do it gently and several heat and wick cycles, it will remove all the solder, even solder down in a recess. They make solder braid down to @ 0.2 micron copper thread.

Edit solder will "bang" off the brush, no damage, so long as you don't heat the brush.
 
Thanks for the tip! That's very helpful. I've had excellent results with soldering freshly stripped automotive wire followed by the heat shrink, but that's the extent of my experience. Thanks again!
 
Removed the green wire today and it turned out the OEM wires were not cut, just stripped back. On one side it looked like the wire was soldered on and cut off then soldered on the other side. I was able to remove the mess. I would like to remove the pins from the headlamp plug so I can slide some heat shrink over for the repair, but was unable to release the clips. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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I had tried releasing the metal pins with a small hard wire as well as a small screwdriver to no avail.

Here's a couple of better pics of the gray plug I'm wondering about:
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In a pinch, if you don't have something like a split barrel pin remover, on the receiver side, use another receiver barrel and snip off the tangs. work it in and over the outside of the receiver, it will pass the tangs and it will pull out, reusable. That might not be the best description...
 
Also, this plug is hanging out above the driver's kick panel. What does it go to?
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I just snapped this picture, see if it helps:

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Thank you! That's it right above the oil filter slightly to the right. I wonder what sensor that is and why it was disconnected?
 
There is two knock sensors in that area. But those are in the block.... Can't recall what those other sensors are.
 

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