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- #181
Well i did a thing.. my 97 lx build. distributorless/turbo/h151f
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alia176
SILVER Star
what's going on here?
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- #183
Passivating the welds using my diy electropolisher using a slightly acidic electrolyte. you dip a brush into the liquid then brush the weld. the carbon fiber brush has an electric current flowing through it and the metal and it removes the oxide, basically all the iron and junk and pretty rainbow colors off the weld. Then you spray a neutralizer on the metal.If you look at food grade/medical stainless products with welds the welds look like the base metal. Iron left on the surface can rust and destroy the metal. A "legit" electro polisher costs over 1k plus consumables but this is doing the same thing. . My setup cost under 150$ including consumables
Here's a quick video of passivating a weld
My weld went from this.
To this
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- #184
Exhaust is done... next up turbo manifold.. this is really going to test my abilities with all the tight corners and crevices, I will have to dismantle it a bit and weld pieces as I go as some areas are basically inaccessible.
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- #185
Picked up all my engine parts from the machine shop yesterday, no pics of that stuff yet as everything is in boxes and I'm still finishing up stuff on my bench and doing some shop cleanup before the assembly work. However got the manifold 95% done should finish up in the next day or so.. i also have a neat little package inbound from bowfincruisers.. stay tuned..
Man this looks nice. Might have covered it but what are you using for ECU?
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- #187
Thanks! Can't wait to get it all wrapped up. I'm running a Haltech elite 2000 and wideband controller
Nice, I’m in the process of figuring out my 2500 right now. How’d you wire the crank, distributor, and tps?
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- #189
Not sure what you have so i can't say for certain however, the crank is just a 2 wire vr sensor and is easy to wire you should have gotten a wiring diagram with your ecu but it is available on their website this page is very helpful in explaining your sensors and wiring Haltech link I am running a gen 2 1fz head so it doesnt have a distributor, I am running sequential cop ignition. Tps is a simple avi input on the ecu. you have 5v reference pin 4, signal pin 3 and a sensor ground pin 1. You will need your specific toyota ecu wiring diagram so you can match up the wiring. Haltech's website and forum are very helpful if you need.
jomelo
SILVER Star
Man. Hurry this thing up! I really want to see what this engine/transmission combo does in an 80 series. What are you planning to do for the tune? Are you going to do it? Remote someone in?
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- #191
Lol! Hey I hear ya I'm itching as well. You don't know how much crap I've gotten from the wife/kids about getting this thing done... I promised them it would be done before winter ended so we could play in the snow but many things didn't line up like I hoped, luckily we still might catch the tail end of winter here in Washington. As of last weekend it still has been snowing fairly wildly in the mountains which is crazy as it's spring.... I will absolutely not miss any camping this summer, I actually have my sights set on it running by end of next month. The tune will be handled by alpha at induction performance in Sarasota FL, they are huge into toyota supra stuff as well as lots of other exotic high hp toys. He remote tuned my 700hp SC300. I basically just rent out a dyno for the day then he remotes into my laptop and I do the pulls then he tweaks away.
jomelo
SILVER Star
That’s good to know. I’m still sitting on my coil pack 1FZ and H151 just trying to figure out what I want to put it in. Really interested to see how you like the setup.
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- #193
Finally finished welding the manifold this morning.. that's a huge load off my mind.. now its time to prepare for engine assembly... here's a little teaser of some stuff that got paint.
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Have an oven mitt handy when you reach for that oil cap with the engine at operating temperature. 
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- #195
Lol, yeah I had one on my SC as well as a titanium ball shift knob... let's just say summertime driving after the car sat in the sun was.. interesting... lol I like to play with fire.Have an oven mitt handy when you reach for that oil cap with the engine at operating temperature.
This is an awesome build, I'm actually embarrassed of my turbo manifold after seeing yours.
How are you running the sequential ignition with only a crank reference?? I thought a cam signal was required as well.
Are you going to run the Sparton cop kit, with Kluger coils??
I's there a performance/efficiency benefit to running sequential instead of waste spark??
Thanks in advance.
How are you running the sequential ignition with only a crank reference?? I thought a cam signal was required as well.
Are you going to run the Sparton cop kit, with Kluger coils??
I's there a performance/efficiency benefit to running sequential instead of waste spark??
Thanks in advance.
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- #197
Thanks! I am not a pro at welding for sure but I did spend plenty of time practicing on scrap before I built this one, I also built the exhaust system first which gave me plenty of practice on a part slightly less critical than the turbo manifold. I actually wanted to calculate the length of weld I did on the exhaust because I know it is probably huge.. after hours of practice I was really able to dial in my amperage/argon flow/travel speed settings to get full penetration and decently clean welds. It's not perfect and the hardest part for was me was reaching into the very tight spots where the tubes merge. I will definitely take more care in planning how the tubes are laid out next time and the order in which I assemble the manifold to allow ease of access to those tight joints. As far as sequential ignition I am running a brand new toyota gen 2 head and cams which has a cam sensor, I am using 2grfe coils no need for a kit, its just a wiring harness and a bracket, I have wired my new Toyota harness to integrate the cop setup. I'm running sequential because my ecu allows it, its slightly more efficient than waste spark, I believe it shines at higher rpm as your coils are allowed longer dwell time vs running the coils in waste spark, there is nothing wrong with waste spark by any means but why not run it if you have the capability.
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- Thread starter
- #198
Let the games begin.... started putting the brand new head together with all new parts after getting it cut just barely to get a good surface finish for the mls head gasket, also had the valve seats/valves touched up as well. The head got supertech viton stem seals. Still need to test fit shims with old ones to figure out what I need then I'll order new units. Got a comparison pic of a 3.0 2jz next to the 4.5 1fz here... that 1fz is just the mock up engine. Below that we got the fresh 1fz freeze plugs and galley balls in then primed, painted and cleared... man I was not expecting so much metal flake in the paint lol.. had the minions tear into the @dogfishlake bowfin cruisers rack. Pressed in the @landtank oil pump idler bushing, cleaned the piston oil squirters in my ultrasonic cleaner and reinstalled with new check valves. Got the acl main bearings in and set the crank in place using driven hvl assembly oil and got br 40 conventional 10w40 to slick up the cylinder walls a bit for the pistons. The hvl is synthetic and you do not want that on the fresh piston rings, it's OK on the bearings but way too slippery for the rings at first and won't let them seat well. Will be running the br40 as a break in then probably the hr5 10w40 as it's regular use oil. I'll be putting the pistons in tomorrow then I'll start buttoning up everything else. Stay tuned! Oh yeah the crank and rotating assembly were polished and balanced as well
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- #199
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- #200
