Well i did a thing.. my 97 lx build. distributorless/turbo/h151f

how many waygu beef powers and torques did project waygu beef make?

  • 100awhp!

    Votes: 2 3.4%

  • 200awhp!!

    Votes: 4 6.9%

  • 300awhp!!!

    Votes: 20 34.5%

  • 400awhp!!!!

    Votes: 20 34.5%

  • 500awhp!!!!!

    Votes: 6 10.3%

  • 600awhp!!!!!!?

    Votes: 9 15.5%
  • Total voters
    58

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Pistons and rods assembled.. 24 spiral locks = ouch, I personally like c clips better but whatever.. Rotating assembly is in and torqued, checked rod bolt stretch and they are all perfect per arp. Had to order a new dial indicator as I manhandled my old one too much... I need to measure piston to deck clearance and measure the combustion chamber volume of the new head so I can get an accurate compression ratio measurement. Side note... the piston squirters were a bit too close for my liking to the new pistons skirts so all required just a tiny bit of adjustment so everything clears, no big deal. But just an FYI if you plan on running these pistons.. stay tuned for more!
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Your build is looking amazing so far. Can't wait to see what else you have in store! Love that you've got your little helper getting in the mix. I always try to keep my little boys involved as well, they're learning as they go and always excited to see new things.
 
well.... its officially a long block! Of course there's always those last minute items you forgot when you place your initial parts order(s):bang: so needless to say i'm waiting on a few little items that should be here tomorrow.. on the other hand... how about those shims and heatshields that came from halfway around the world faster than the ones I ordered my local toyota dealer and have to come from a distribution center in cali.... lol partsoq for the win.. usually... last thing is to get the cams/shims in install the clutch and flywheel, install the engine, do a last min fit up of exhaust parts again before ceramic heat coating... then I'll install the new engine harness and terminate a few wires then that's pretty much it before tuning... anywho..here's the goods
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When you removed the ball bearings from the oil galleys, did you also remove the two tiny freeze plugs from the oil galleys on the front of the block? Do you have a part number for them?
 
Lexcruzer said:
When you removed the ball bearings from the oil galleys, did you also remove the two tiny freeze plugs from the oil galleys on the front of the block? Do you have a part number for them?
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Yes, there is no toyota replacement for any of the balls or plugs to my knowledge however I used these for the 2 little ones on the front that you need. Dorman 555-025, you can get it from pretty much any parts store.
 
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Lexcruzer said:
Awesome! Thanks! Fantastic build. I noticed you have a yes welder. How do you like it?
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First off let me say i am no pro and probably not very qualified to rate how well a machine works.. however in my opinion I think it works very well. I have had zero issues and have pulled off some very impressive welds that have very little to no contamination, full penetration and were properly backpurged that I am very confident in. The unit purchased is their cheapest one that will tig and the reason i got it is because initially I was just going to tack up the manifold and have my friend who is a professional welder finish it. However life happens and we just never found time to get it done. If I were to go back I might get the tig 250p as it is ac/dc so you can also do aluminum and has full pedal control not just on and off, it also has significantly more features, like pulse and actual adjustable post flow. I do know from experience that ac welding is more finicky with settings and I have not dug too much into the setting on that unit... its 750ish depending on sales and coupons that they have regularly.. with that being said at that price point I would really just jump into a primeweld 225x as it's only 850 and is actually rated extremely high by pro's.. its also chinese but you can tell the yes welder is very Chinese just by reading the instructions. Primeweld just has a better fit and finish and is a more legit company imo.
 
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audi2nr said:
First off let me say i am no pro and probably not very qualified to rate how well a machine works.. however in my opinion I think it works very well. I have had zero issues and have pulled off some very impressive welds that have very little to no contamination, full penetration and were properly backpurged that I am very confident in. The unit purchased is their cheapest one that will tig and the reason i got it is because initially I was just going to tack up the manifold and have my friend who is a professional welder finish it. However life happens and we just never found time to get it done. If I were to go back I might get the tig 250p as it is ac/dc so you can also do aluminum and has full pedal control not just on and off, it also has significantly more features, like pulse and actual adjustable post flow. I do know from experience that ac welding is more finicky with settings and I have not dug too much into the setting on that unit... its 750ish depending on sales and coupons that they have regularly.. with that being said at that price point I would really just jump into a primeweld 225x as it's only 850 and is actually rated extremely high by pro's.. its also chinese but you can tell the yes welder is very Chinese just by reading the instructions. Primeweld just has a better fit and finish and is a more legit company imo.
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Oh, that Primeweld unit looks pretty nice. And they even have a water cooler and water cooled torch that you can get for it. For the total package that would get you a water cooled 250A, ac/dc tig setup for under $1500. That's pretty amazing.
 
NKP Garage said:
Oh, that Primeweld unit looks pretty nice. And they even have a water cooler and water cooled torch that you can get for it. For the total package that would get you a water cooled 250A, ac/dc tig setup for under $1500. That's pretty amazing.
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Yeah I'm probably going to get one, the base model even comes with a CK torch. It's a nice rig.
 
Got the intake cam shimmed, sitting closer to the min tolerances .007" ish. Still waiting on my local toyota dealer to get the exhaust side shims. "pro tip" fill up the cam with oil via syringe, especially on a new build so your parts in the head don't have to wait too long for oil pressure.. no it won't stay full but you'll be way better off than no oil.. got the pilot bearing flywheel and clutch installed.. for some odd reason the clutch kit had a bearing that was too small to fit the crank as well as too small a inner hole to fit the inputshaft. No worries as I used a new toyota part, however the clutch alignment tool also fit a smaller input shaft end so you couldn't use it to line up the friction disc.. the splines are correct however.. I ended up using the spare uzj inputshaft I have to get everything all squared up. All I need now is a day of no rain so I can push the truck back and drop the engine in.
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audi2nr said:
lol yeah that's what happens when you go ocd and replace literally everything. only thing that isn't brand new is the block and crank and all the misc fasteners that aren't torque to yield. all the accessories are new or reman denso.
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You sound like my kind of neighbor. Looking forward to see what else you have in store for it.
 
Moving right along.... like a herd of turtles. As one of my middle school teachers so eloquently put it. LOL :rofl: ok so hot side parts are at the heat coating shop. I finally got all the shims for the exhaust side that I needed from my local toyota dealer as i couldn't source them from partsouq for some reason, not unheard of... found out the P.O. damaged the P/S gear when he replaced it with non toyota parts and non atf power steering fluid :mad: i knew this when i bought the truck, and even though it wasn't making noise i decided to replace it, so new toyota pump and gear to go along with the new toyota P/S box i already installed. got the crank pulley installed and tightened with my new @CPACruiser pulley tool. i have an otramm one however it was not really thick enough so i twisted the 1/2 and 3/4 drive holes, the new tool works perfect however. i pulled the a/c evaporator to replace the expansion valve and to my surprise someone had already been in there.. not sure what they replaced but they didn't reinstall 3 of the screws holding the box half's together smh... i began cleaning out the nasty evaporator when i decided to just say screw it and i ordered a new denso unit, should be here this weekend. i will be making some sort of intake air filter to avoid sucking in dirt and crap that will stick to a wet evaporator.. also installed the new engine harness and began the process of final termination of the extra sensors and stuff as well as installing better heat and abrasion protection. got the clutch bled as well, if anyone else with an h151f can comment on the pedal pressure please do, i am quite surprised as to how light the pedal is, the clutch isn't oem however it isn't an extreme heavy duty one, it's just a spec stage 1.
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