This looks like a great way to go. How far does one gallon get you? I’m thinking of doing this for my cruiser and Tundra.
Welding Prep and Finishing
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
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You can pretty much spray everything underneath including inside the frame and rockers with a gallon but that'll be cutting it close might take a little more. I'd get 5 gallons and then you won't run short and will be covered for a few years. I'm on my second 5 gallon pale and I'm considering spraying this at my shop and if I do will get a 55 gallon drum.
The ops post was about weld-through primers.
Weld through primers are used when welding together overlapping surfaces. The rest of the coatings recommended in this thread are for coating surfaces after welding and can’t be reasonably compared.
Copper primers allow easier welding because of the better conductivity compared to their counterparts. Copper is cathodic to steel and can accelerate corrosion of steel when coupled. This depends greatly on the ratio of copper to steel, amount of moisture and contaminants present, and surface area exposed to the environment, among other things.
Zinc is a better choice in terms of corrosion resistance because zinc is anodic to steel when coupled together.
I hate welding with these types of primers but they can be a necessary evil at times. I’ve had good luck with clamping the two surfaces together after the primer dries and then taking a wire wheel to the holes that you’ll be welding up to remove the exposed primer. This helps with a cleaner, better penetrating weld, while retaining the benefit of the weld through primer.
Weld through primers are used when welding together overlapping surfaces. The rest of the coatings recommended in this thread are for coating surfaces after welding and can’t be reasonably compared.
Copper primers allow easier welding because of the better conductivity compared to their counterparts. Copper is cathodic to steel and can accelerate corrosion of steel when coupled. This depends greatly on the ratio of copper to steel, amount of moisture and contaminants present, and surface area exposed to the environment, among other things.
Zinc is a better choice in terms of corrosion resistance because zinc is anodic to steel when coupled together.
I hate welding with these types of primers but they can be a necessary evil at times. I’ve had good luck with clamping the two surfaces together after the primer dries and then taking a wire wheel to the holes that you’ll be welding up to remove the exposed primer. This helps with a cleaner, better penetrating weld, while retaining the benefit of the weld through primer.
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Mine was half full of concrete hard silt. I used a drain jetter, and it worked great. I got soaked in the process, and left 2 nice piles of debris in the driveway.
Reading the thread we certainly are bouncing around with ideas.
I've in the past made sure I could get at the back side of a weld to clean and paint it. Back sides of welds rust quickly on toyota metal.
The purpose of weld thru primer isn't to stay protected, but to let a person strike an arc on a primed surface. or close to it. But it still becomes exposed.
I've believed in oiling as the best method to protect a frame. But not all oil is okay. It should be something resistant to washing off, or made for corrosion protection. Motor oil does work, but isn't very ecological, and if you do water crossings it comes into the water.
I lot of the good corrosion proofing waxes up and makes a barrier. A two stage application of a penetrant and then a coating oil is best. I flushed my frame out and sprayed it heavily, now anytime I weld or work on it I get fires...
I've in the past made sure I could get at the back side of a weld to clean and paint it. Back sides of welds rust quickly on toyota metal.
The purpose of weld thru primer isn't to stay protected, but to let a person strike an arc on a primed surface. or close to it. But it still becomes exposed.
I've believed in oiling as the best method to protect a frame. But not all oil is okay. It should be something resistant to washing off, or made for corrosion protection. Motor oil does work, but isn't very ecological, and if you do water crossings it comes into the water.
I lot of the good corrosion proofing waxes up and makes a barrier. A two stage application of a penetrant and then a coating oil is best. I flushed my frame out and sprayed it heavily, now anytime I weld or work on it I get fires...
