welding on dryer plug??

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Depends on the max rated output of your welder.

I have a Miller 175, the max input current it can use is 29 amps @ 230v. I used my dryer plug to power it for a year or so before running a 50 amp circuit to the garage.

MOST (not all) 220 dryer circuits are 30 amps, so you can see I was cutting it close.

For the kind of use my welder gets, the dryer circuit was sufficient, just inconvenient.
 
what he said, make sure your circuit breaker will handle or exceed the machines input requirement,,, 50 amp input for example to a minimum 50 amp circuit
 
i also have a 175 miller so I should be able to get away with it as long as im not cranking it all the way up? never had it up to top power before except to weld the tire carrier spindle. The house is a rental so i dont really wanna go in and change anything if i dont have to

thanks
mike
 
Check the breaker for your dryer and be sure its a 30 amp.

But yes, you'll be fine. I've welded at top output a couple times on the dryer plug, no problems.
 
You can use a 20 amp tool on a 10 amp service. The only issue is that if the tool draws more than 10 amps, the breaker will trip. It's not dangerous, just limiting. That's what the breaker is there for, to keep you from drawing more than 10 amps through the wires. In your case, since you don't want to improve the house, try it on the existing circuit. The worst thing that can happen is that it won't work- you won't damage anything.

The only other issue is if the plug will fit the receptacle. If not, buy a plug that does fit and is rated to at least the max input of the welder, or make an adapter. The electricity is the same- two legs of 120v and a neutral, and possibly a ground but not usually.

-Spike
 
Depends on the max rated output of your welder.

I have a Miller 175, the max input current it can use is 29 amps @ 230v. I used my dryer plug to power it for a year or so before running a 50 amp circuit to the garage.

MOST (not all) 220 dryer circuits are 30 amps, so you can see I was cutting it close.

For the kind of use my welder gets, the dryer circuit was sufficient, just inconvenient.

What welder are you using that requires a 50 amp circuit? Most 250 amp class welders (Millermatic 200, 250, 250x, 251) will require (per manual) a 50 amp circuit.

MM175 should be fine with 30 amp circuit. Millermatic 210 requires a 30 amp breaker (per manual), but has a much power on the top end compared to the MM175. I don't see how the MM175 would even come close to pulling 29 amps.
 
Charles brings up my situation exactly. I have a MM210, running on a 30 amp ex-drier circuit. The machine can draw 29 amps(per the input specs). I have never tripped the breaker even when I was doing a lot of welding on my FJ40 rebuild. I don't think it's a big deal or even a concern. If you start blowing the breaker, you need more service, but my bet is that you will be fine.

You sure a MM175 can draw 29 amps?

In my next life, I'm going to have 100 amps in the garage.
 
In my next life, I'm going to have 100 amps in the garage.

I know what you mean Andrew. I have 80 amps going to my shop and it is not enough. I originally wanted 100 amps, but I ended up running 3 #4 wires and #8 ground because the city inspector said it was good for 100 amps. The building inspector (guy that comes out to the house) said #4 is good for 80 amps in a conduit which is correct. Only way I can get 100 amps to the shop is to pull another 100 feet of #3 wires which I don't feel like doing. It is real PITA to pull 3 #4 wires and #8 ground though underground conduit over 100' with turns.

Lesson I learned it to double check their work even though they're the experts.

BTW, the 80 amp breaker cost me $80.00 since it is not very common. You can buy 70 amps breaker for $40 and 100 amp breaker for $50.

My next shop (when and if) will have 200 amp service. My Miller syncrowave 250 tig welder likes lot of current (100 amps). I should be okay with a 70 amp breaker since I'll never run it full bore at 310 amps.
 
The only issue really is if the wires are undersized.... Mine are.... it's a 30 amp breaker, but I think the wires are only 14 gauge, which is not to code here and if you pull too much through them they may melt/catch fire before the breaker trips.

Not trying to scare you.... :D Just check the wire size first.
 
:eek: 30 amps over 14 guage is pretty extreme- double what the wire is rated for. There is a potential for trouble other than burning down the building in that case. The 14 guage wires can't deliver 30 amps, so if the device demands 30, you could damage the device itself. The voltage can drop, and electronics don't like that. If you had a 15 amp breaker on that, it would blow the breaker before the voltage could drop, but in your case the breaker will never blow.

-Spike
 
:eek: 30 amps over 14 guage is pretty extreme- double what the wire is rated for. There is a potential for trouble other than burning down the building in that case. The 14 guage wires can't deliver 30 amps, so if the device demands 30, you could damage the device itself. The voltage can drop, and electronics don't like that. If you had a 15 amp breaker on that, it would blow the breaker before the voltage could drop, but in your case the breaker will never blow.-Spike

It will blow once the wires melt together:eek:
 
14 guage is only rated to 12 amps.
 
BTW, the 80 amp breaker cost me $80.00 since it is not very common. You can buy 70 amps breaker for $40 and 100 amp breaker for $50.

What brand of breakers are you using? My SquareD breakers were half that cost.
 

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