welding for beginners

[White Shark]

If you can't take a class, pick up a copy of "Welder's Handbook", a complete guide to mig, tig, arc, & oxyacetylene welding, by Richard Finch, 1997. It's stocked at your local Ba-Lowes or Home Despot in the welding supplies area of the tool dept. Don't be tempted to buy anything while you are there. Get the book (under $20), get out, go home and read the thing. Check out local shops, what your buddies have, and try a few units. You will often come across guys wanting to upgrade and you might score a nice unit. Ask questions. The book is worth having as it is a general bible of welding info. The guy who wrote it learned to weld as a kid in a shop, now owns an aerospace welding shop, and has been a chief engineer on welding the gantry tower for the NASA space shuttle. He give tips, welding exercises, pro, cons, and a pretty level assessment without b.s. or brand name butt kissing. Everyone ought to have a copy as he discusses theory, and has temp charts, setup charts, exotic alloy charts, gas flow recommendations, etc. I have given this book at least 3 times as a Christmas present in years past. Check it out. It makes great bathroom reading if nothing else. No affiliation, yada, yada, etc. etc...

 

[White Shark]

The ISBN number for that book is 1-55788-264-9. You can probably find it at any of the online book providers. The price on the back of my copy is $18.95, but I think I got this copy for around $15. You could probably hook up a copy for $10 or $12 if you look around.

 

[Doug_S]

IMHO I'd suggest a MIG welder. You will be pleased with the result and it required very little experience. A friend of mine calls his a "metal caulking gun" which is accurate. I have a Hobart Handler 120 which does a really fine job on thin and somewhat thicker material. I've even welded up a hydraulic motorcycle lift capable of lifting up to #800. I also have a TIG machine which, as the others have pointed out, requires a bit more skill.

The Hobart was suggested to me becuase the internal parts seem to be a bit more robust than either Miller or Lincoln machines in the same range. It's never let me down and it's perfect for making repairs.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

I'm pretty sure Hobart is made by Miller and is their cheaper line of machines.

 

[Ground Up]

I agree with everyone that has suggested taking classes. It is really a good start and needed if you are going to do any welding where saftey is of concern. I have seen many a weld that was laid on cold or to hot compromising the part.

Each welding process has it's place. And the person saying Mig doesn't work with body sheet metal is way off. If done properly it is probably it can produce bondo free panels. I have had guys that have welded for 20+ years nt able to weld 16 ga. sheet metal together without ruining it. It is all in the learning and practice and patience.

If buying a MIG welder make sure that it is gas capable. You can do alot and control alot just with the different gas mixes.

And like has been said in this thread buy the best you can. Don't settle for a campbell hausfeld or harbor freight POS. buy one from the top three manufacturers.

 

[MATCHBOX]

I agree with the stick welder as a starter. That's what I learned on growing up in the logging trade. I never once saw any one welding on heavy machine's with a mig. I can weld anything you want with a stick. You just have to get the right rod # and size. I also have the miller 185 and can't weld with it to save my own life. My buddy that is in the E.O.D has shown me alot with it, But I still like the stick. Welding with a stick is an Art. You talk to alot of the older (65 and up) and they will tell you that. Most guys that can weld with a mig can't even get a stick to start yet weld with one. I do agree if you go mig get one with gas.

 

[pappy]

I do agree if you go mig get one with gas.

Well, I'm about as new to welding as it gets ... I layed my first beads down yesterday with both a MIG and a stick, both Miller machines. For clarification, MIG requires gas. The "IG" in MIG stands for "inert gas." What they are talking about is wire feed vs. stick. I found I was able to weld with both. Boogers some of the time, smooth beads others, largely due to gravity. The wire feed MIG was the only way I was able to seam 16 gauge sheet metal and I thought it was very easy for a newbie. Both machines did fine on 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch, except for operator errors of course. The MIG was my new Miller 175.

Now I just need a few days to patch up da' FJ4dee in the garage.

 

[Steve C]

And the person saying Mig doesn't work with body sheet metal is way off. If done properly it is probably it can produce bondo free panels.


If buying a MIG welder make sure that it is gas capable. You can do alot and control alot just with the different gas mixes.

Nope.

Heres a rundown of a good quality (as opposed to crash shop quality) rust repair:
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/80518/

Although there are alot of steps illustrated, this kind of repair is really not that hard to do. It's all based on not adding a lot of filler, and hammering while still hot. As we know, mig adds filler as soon as you hit the button. You can only do this kind of repair with gas or tig.

One thing to remember is that commercial body shop techinques do not always translate into restoration (rust) repairs. As I understand it mig got it's big start in body repair as a response to poor quality gas weld structural repairs on cars with the High Strength Steel. Because mig wire comes on a reel, it made it harder for disreputable shops to use coathanger wire for the filler.

Plus, if it's a mig it's gas capable. (ig= "inert gas")


Don't take my word for any of this though. Do a little research.

 

[ClarkDaniels]

Hello everyone, I am very new to the welding scene, and currently unemployed ><. I'm wanting to try and start up a small hobby that may bring me some cash flow. I'm wanting to make art out of used horseshoes to sell around town and at festivals and what not. I was wondering what would be the best kind of welder for this purpose. I don't see myself going to far beyond this as it's just a hobby for me. Any information would be great. Just want to be able to make strong welds so that horseshoes won't break apart. I plan to make tons of trinkets and unique things , nothing monsterous by any means. Thanks for the help!

 

[batcon]

Hello everyone, I am very new to the welding scene, and currently unemployed ><. I'm wanting to try and start up a small hobby that may bring me some cash flow. I'm wanting to make art out of used horseshoes to sell around town and at festivals and what not. I was wondering what would be the best kind of welder for this purpose. I don't see myself going to far beyond this as it's just a hobby for me. Any information would be great. Just want to be able to make strong welds so that horseshoes won't break apart. I plan to make tons of trinkets and unique things , nothing monsterous by any means. Thanks for the help!

Go with a mig. You can probably get away with a 110 welder depending on what exactly your doing. Of course you need to think about what you may be doing when you get more involved.

 

[Brian in Oregon]

I'm pretty sure Hobart is made by Miller and is their cheaper line of machines.

That is true. Miller bought Hobart and is using it as their entry level and less expensive line.

The Hobart is a pretty good deal for what it is. It ain't no Miller, but it's way ahead of the Lincolns. A Hobart would be my second choice after a Miller.

The Lincolns have too much plastic in the feed mechanism.

I have a Millermatic 180 with Auto Set. Damn nice machine. It's a 220v model.

The 110v version is the Millermatic 140 Auto Set. I would only get the 110v model if I was mainly doing sheet metal welding.

Either way, you'll want to get the liner for smaller diameter wire because both machines can and will burn holes through sheetmetal with the larger diameter wire. You'll want the .024" liner, and since solid wire will be used, you'll want a tank of shielding gas. Both welders come with the regulator and hose.

There's also an aluminum spool gun gun available for both welders for $249. This too requires shielding gas.

Note the duty cycle. The 180 puts out 135 amps at 30% duty cycle. In a nutshell, that means at that amperage setting you weld for three minutes then let the welder cool off for seven minutes. The 140 has a 20% duty cycle at 90 amps. That means you weld for two minutes and let the machine cool for eight minutes. Aside from the maximum thickness of steel, this is a very good reason to purchase a 220v machine over a 110v machine. The flip side is the 110v machine is more portable from the standpoint of finding 110v service at more places.

Having said that, if you're mainly welding sheetmetal, then the lower duty cycle is not as much of an issue, because you'll have to tack and stitch weld the sheetmetal then let it cool off to prevent warping anyway.

if you're mainly welding up bumpers, rollbars, etc., then the 220v machine ought to be considered.

When I have heavy welding jobs, I turn to my stick machine, which will put out 220 amps at 100% duty cycle (it's a large production machine, not a little buzz box). This isn't a put down of buzz boxes. There is little you can do on a larger stick machine that you can't on a buzz box, eventually. It will just take more time and more passes with smaller rod.

 

[Ebag333]

When I have heavy welding jobs, I turn to my stick machine, which will put out 220 amps at 100% duty cycle (it's a large production machine, not a little buzz box). This isn't a put down of buzz boxes. There is little you can do on a larger stick machine that you can't on a buzz box, eventually. It will just take more time and more passes with smaller rod.

What are you considering a "little buzz box"?

My cheap Lincoln tombstone buzz box will do quarter inch in a single pass, which is the thickest steel I'll probably ever use.

Now I guess if you start moving up to 1"+ stock as your definition for "heavy" welding jobs...then yeah.

 

[neufab]

i make a lot of art from used horse shoes and found that my lincon buz box ac only does the best.it works better because ac current cuts through the rust and mud and horse crap very well.now back to the point depending on what your doing depends on what you buy. i think to learn stick is best,harder but better and cheeper.but if your just planning on doing lite gauge around the house buy a small 220v mig and auto darken helmet i only say this because with auto darken its one less thing to worry about while learning.if you dont have 220v save the money and get it it is worth it in the end.i have several different machines lincon ,miller astro,hobart ,everlast,and a couple with no names at all,all work just fine for me but for value,dependability and customer service i would go MILLER