Weber VS stock

Joined
Dec 9, 2003
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1,256
I am looking for opinions on running a weber carb over the stock one on a 1F motor. I have read that they run better and gain more power with an upgraded electronic ignition. Mine stock carb needs rebuilding as this is a hard starting motor when cold.
 

Pighead

Stop calling it an FJ
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Aug 31, 2004
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everyone on here will say stock
Like me.
It's probably a lot cheaper, quicker, easier and better to fix what you have.
Adding a weber introduces more problems with linkages, wiring and plumbing.
It may help us if we knew what year F engine and what year carb, some Aisins are better than others. Pics might help too.
Half of all carb problems are really electrical problems,
 
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I have a Weber on my 1970. It runs well but took some time to get dialed in. I believe the key is getting the idle set properly. Then they are not difficult to tune but they like very slight adjustments. Once figured out they run well but I’m not sure they are as good as a factory carb even then. I would get your factory Asian rebuilt by Marks Off-road or see if he has a carb for sale that he has rebuilt. I will eventually do just that myself.
 

hobbes

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A good discussion on this topic below. I had one that I took the time to setup and it ran great. Took me awhile, but that’s probably me. 8 mpg, though, was one of the rubs (I’m 13-14 mpg with an OEM carb).

IIRC, according to the thread (WeberSarge) the reason people had good results on other vehicles is Weber developed a carb for those vehicles. For the 2F, it was just “adapted” by some and never really fit as it was never designed for it by the company.

 
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Look fellas. I am not a mechanic but I am mechanically inclined. With that in mind, I have a 1987 Toyota PU with the AISIN carb and I just want to rebuild. My boyfriend, on the other hand, also not a mechanic, want to go with the WEBER because a few friends say change to weber and it will solve all of your problems. I am not so sure about it. I am afraid that it is going to be more of a headache dialing it in properly than what is necessary for the year and the use of the truck.. If i were tricking it out, maybe... but it is just a here to there vehicle. I have rebuilt a couple carbs in the past with no problems and I am considering possibly buying a new AISIN, instead of rebuilding, for times sake.

Could someone PLEASE giv e me some accurate and unbiased information to take to him. Comparison #'s would be great! ANYONE'S THOUGHTS????
 

hobbes

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This might not be the best place to ask. The mini-pickups did not have the same engine as the Land Cruisers. Webers, out of the box, were never a great setup for the F series motors. But you have a different engine.

Make sure the people recommending the Weber have the same engine as you, or the recommendation doesn’t really fit what you have.

User Weber Sarge here has the most info. You can search his old posts, but they’ll mostly be about F engines.
 

1911

chupacabra
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Look fellas. I am not a mechanic but I am mechanically inclined. With that in mind, I have a 1987 Toyota PU with the AISIN carb and I just want to rebuild. My boyfriend, on the other hand, also not a mechanic, want to go with the WEBER because a few friends say change to weber and it will solve all of your problems. I am not so sure about it. I am afraid that it is going to be more of a headache dialing it in properly than what is necessary for the year and the use of the truck.. If i were tricking it out, maybe... but it is just a here to there vehicle. I have rebuilt a couple carbs in the past with no problems and I am considering possibly buying a new AISIN, instead of rebuilding, for times sake.

Could someone PLEASE giv e me some accurate and unbiased information to take to him. Comparison #'s would be great! ANYONE'S THOUGHTS????

What problems is it having that need solved? That is a better place to start, than which carb, in my opinion.
 
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What problems is it having that need solved? That is a better place to start, than which carb, in my opinion.
We changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs and wires, fuel tank, air cleaner and so on. The issue is when you start the truck, it starts right up. let it sit idling to warm up and it starts choking out and dies. It is running extremely lean and the carburetor is flooding. It will do the same when going down the road any type of distance and I would have to "two foot" it in order to keep it running. Once it dies, it goes into a hard start. I have to let it cool off and the fuel evaporate from the bowl, then it willl start and run good again for a while. The last thing done was replace the tank. It ran awesome for about a week and then it just dies...I have not been able to drive it any distance at all. replaced the distributor cap and rotor button and the pcv valve. I did have a mechanic tell me that it would be a good idea to either rebuild or replace the carb but I am not sold on the Weber. I am pretty confident that the carburetor is the issue. However, I am open to any suggestions on where to go from here. Just so you know, .I have removed and disassembled the carburetor to start the rebuild. Just wanting to get some info before I continue.

So, thank you for your interest and any help and or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 
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This might not be the best place to ask. The mini-pickups did not have the same engine as the Land Cruisers. Webers, out of the box, were never a great setup for the F series motors. But you have a different engine.

Make sure the people recommending the Weber have the same engine as you, or the recommendation doesn’t really fit what you have.

User Weber Sarge here has the most info. You can search his old posts, but they’ll mostly be about F engines.
Thanks Hobbes! I will check Weber Sarge's old posts and see what information I can gather.
 

hobbes

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Keep this in mind, a Weber carb will not solve any engine problems. It is very adjustable and as such will instead in some cases mask some engine problems. Since you have already torn the carb down you should pay close attention to jetting. You should be able to find that info in Sarges posts and online according to where you live and your specific engine. Then make sure you follow the instructions on baselining the carb. Be sure your timing is correct, your idle is set correct and make very small adjustments when tuning the carb. They tend to run rich on F motors and seem to be particular about the idle setting but Since your motor is an 87 pickup motor it will be a bit different.
 

1911

chupacabra
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We changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs and wires, fuel tank, air cleaner and so on. The issue is when you start the truck, it starts right up. let it sit idling to warm up and it starts choking out and dies. It is running extremely lean and the carburetor is flooding. It will do the same when going down the road any type of distance and I would have to "two foot" it in order to keep it running. Once it dies, it goes into a hard start. I have to let it cool off and the fuel evaporate from the bowl, then it willl start and run good again for a while. The last thing done was replace the tank. It ran awesome for about a week and then it just dies...I have not been able to drive it any distance at all. replaced the distributor cap and rotor button and the pcv valve. I did have a mechanic tell me that it would be a good idea to either rebuild or replace the carb but I am not sold on the Weber. I am pretty confident that the carburetor is the issue. However, I am open to any suggestions on where to go from here. Just so you know, .I have removed and disassembled the carburetor to start the rebuild. Just wanting to get some info before I continue.

So, thank you for your interest and any help and or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Flooding and lean running do not usually go together; flooding is almost by definition an extreme rich condition.

If the carb is flooding, usually that is a float or float needle valve problem. Replace the float needle (and needle seat if possible). These parts usually come in a re-build kit.

Sometimes (rarely), the actual float can leak and the float will fill with gas and not "float" any more. This would be obvious when you disassemble the carb; take out the float and shake it - you should not feel any fluid moving inside of it. Replace it if there's any doubt. Not an expensive part (if it's still available).

Once you have eliminated those possibilities, check the float level. You can adjust the float level by slightly bending the (usually brass) hinge arm. There should be a spec for setting the float level in the factory service manual.

If your carb has an electronic choke, check it to make sure it is opening after warm-up.

If the carb is running lean, that is either a fuel delivery problem, a vacuum leak (both common) or a jetting problem. You have addressed the fuel delivery by replacing the fuelp pump, filter, and gas tank. The one remaining thing to do is to blow-out the fuel lines with compressed air. If there was crud in the old tank or filter, there is almost certainly crud in the fuel lines also.

Check for vacuum leaks (usually at the base of the carb where it mounts or where the intake manifold mounts on the head) by spraying carb cleaner or even WD-40 on those areas while the engine is running and idling. A change in rpm will indicate a leak.

Jets (particularly small pilot and idle jets) can become clogged from using ethanol-blend gasoline. Usually this will be obvious as a white encrustation or blockage of the jet orifice. If the jets are blocked or obstructed, you may be able to clean the white corrosion out carefully with a small drill bit. Be careful not to drill the orifice larger. It's also possible (but not likely?) that a previous owner changed the jets to the wrong size(s).

In my experience, Aisin carbs are very good; if it were mine, I would not replace it with a Weber. Weber carbs were popular (allegedly) high-performance upgrades for VW beetles and some other cars when I was young, but I don't think they or any other aftermarket carb are a panacea for all ills.

Good luck with your diagnosis and fix.
 
Joined
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We changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs and wires, fuel tank, air cleaner and so on. The issue is when you start the truck, it starts right up. let it sit idling to warm up and it starts choking out and dies. It is running extremely lean and the carburetor is flooding. It will do the same when going down the road any type of distance and I would have to "two foot" it in order to keep it running. Once it dies, it goes into a hard start. I have to let it cool off and the fuel evaporate from the bowl, then it willl start and run good again for a while. The last thing done was replace the tank. It ran awesome for about a week and then it just dies...I have not been able to drive it any distance at all. replaced the distributor cap and rotor button and the pcv valve. I did have a mechanic tell me that it would be a good idea to either rebuild or replace the carb but I am not sold on the Weber. I am pretty confident that the carburetor is the issue. However, I am open to any suggestions on where to go from here. Just so you know, .I have removed and disassembled the carburetor to start the rebuild. Just wanting to get some info before I continue.

So, thank you for your interest and any help and or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

You say that it starts fine but when it warms it dies. You haven't mentioned if you used the choke to get it started. Is it possible that the mechanical choke is on and allows it to start but as soon as it warms it dies because it no longer needs the choke? There is a lever on the dash for the choke. With it pushed in the choke is off, when cold you pull it out to start. Double check that the choke is not frozen and actually works.
 
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Feb 4, 2006
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I have a 82 SWB TOYOTA 4x4 p/u and this will be the second I have done this with. Go to Yotatech and see the desmog tutorial and Weber combo. That process has worked well for me twice. I do love all things OEM Toyota but the Weber has worked well for me on these trucks and two of my 40’s. Just MY 2 cents worth.
 
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I can’t imagine a carb running better than my Jim C tuned stock Aisin on a correctly desmogged 2F. No way would I replace the OEM Aisin with a Weber.

To narrow down a fuel starvation issue you could try running a boat fuel tank to the fuel pump. I had a 90% clogged fuel line once that allowed the engine to start and idle but it would stall out under load. Blowing the lines with compressed air didn’t fix it. I eventually applied vacuum to the fuel line and could barely suck any fuel through. Once I fixed that the engine ran great!
 

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