Fuel System Question

[Weber Sarge]

The Trollhole is pretty simple , just requires the stock heat insulator between the carb base and the intake and the stock air cleaner and linkage setup correct for your truck . The linkage can be an issue as some Weber kits had a gas pedal/cable kit that replaced the original and sourcing a complete pedal and linkage/cable can take time to find a good one . Otherwise , the THC carb runs excellent .
Sarge

 

[ErikinSC]

The Trollhole is pretty simple , just requires the stock heat insulator between the carb base and the intake and the stock air cleaner and linkage setup correct for your truck . The linkage can be an issue as some Weber kits had a gas pedal/cable kit that replaced the original and sourcing a complete pedal and linkage/cable can take time to find a good one . Otherwise , the THC carb runs excellent .
Sarge

I have a Weber 38, and as @Weber Sarge has said - the OEM or a @Trollhole carb are your (ours and mine) best bet. I have an order in to Marshall for one of his cable linkage THC carbs. Weber Sarge & @Pin_Head both gave me a lot of help trying to resolve issues with my Weber 38..... And I still came to the conclusion that when a guy with the handle "Weber Sarge" recommends running a THC on a 2F... LISTEN to him! LOL, I/ve just been stubborn.

 

[ErikinSC]

Well I guess that makes it easier than running a return line all the way from the carb. I wonder if running the return line from there though will make my Weber still operate properly? Or will the fuel pressure reg still be necessary.

I installed the return filter, very easy. No pressure issues. I don't wheel it hard - intentionally, so I've been OKish with the Weber 38 - but will be swapping to the THC carb after the first of the year.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I've written volumes about doing mods to the DGV series Weber carbs for both cars and offroad rigs - the worst "kit" is for the Land Cruiser since it has a crap setup for the throttle linkage whether it be cable or solid links . I prefer if possible to mount the carb with the float bowl in the rear to prevent fuel slosh when climbing a steep hill or obstacle - without a complicated system of bellcranks and such it's almost impossible to do correctly on the F engines . None of the DGV carbs will feed even a 1F enough cfm , including the 40DFAV - it would take at least a 42DCNF and those start at about $500 for the carb alone , no kit . The mounting kits are a joke , with cast aluminum -chrome plated intake adapters and the crappiest cardboard gaskets . There is no way they will seal correctly and not warp/bend with a few heat cycles . Also , those plates are never close to being flat - most are off by around .080" and some well over that - vacuum leaks for sure . Unless you lap the plates flat and use a much thinner gasket they usually end up over time warping the base of the carb - this is extremely hard to repair and correct . What you end up with is a carb that won't return to base idle correctly and a lot of leakage at the floating throttle shaft on the primary side .

I have some very specific and protected ways of fixing the fuel slosh issue - built over 300 carbs with a modified vent system so they would run at extremely high angles with no idle or flooding issues , but that work is expensive since most of carbs that came in had issues from the start when they were cast (Spanish castings , not from Italy) . Last new casting I saw was worse than ever , quality has disappeared in this new age of competition . If it were a Samurai or Toyota mini truck I'd recommend a Weber or still a stock desmogged Toyota carb on the smaller (less than 3.0L engines) 4 cylinder engines . Otherwise , get a Trollhole or rebuilt Aisin .

Just to clarify so I don't get a ton of new emails - I no longer work on Webers , gave that biz up a few years ago .

Sarge