Webber carb (1 Viewer)

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Mar 12, 2005
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Been thinking about getting one of the Webber carbs and wanted to know if it would make a big diff in performance and efficiency over the stock carb on my 78fj. Would a DUI with the Webber carb be even better? Would there be a noticeble diff in the performance? Thanks, RG
 
Stay with the Aisin and mill the head. I have a Weber 38 and I'm happy with it but it takes a lot to get everything dialed in right. You'll get a more noticable difference in performance for less money by milling your head as much as 0.100".
 
I have always heard stock is the way, unfortunately, mine had been converted to cable linkage by PO. I had used a Weber on my mini tuck with great success. I bought a 34/34 for the 76 and I am having problems with being too rich (no one has schmatic on 34/34, hello Joe TLC) If you do go Weber, use a pressure regulator and buy from a vendor who can and will support your purchase.
 
Very happy with my 38/38

I don't dispute that milling the head won't do more, but I switched over my 78 and could not be happier. ManAFre has a very trick but pricey aluminum adapter that is light years better than the plates that usually are included in the kits. I run a mallory dual point distributor and a big Jacobs coil, and some kind of aftermarket ignitor box and performance is not an issue. I think you do need the 38/38 or the whole endeavour will be pointless...
 
I like my 38/38 about 95% of the time. It doesn't like it when the truck has it's nose in the air, or when it's nose down. No big surprise there. On the road and on mild trails I've never had an issue. I run a Mallory full mechanical advance distributor with a pertronix in it. I'm currently rebuilding my motor and with a .040 overbore, balanced rotating assembly, .030 milled off a fully rebuilt head, 262 duration Delta cam, and one of the MAF knockoff JTO thick carb adapters I'm hoping to have a seriously healthy 2F. Due to a few dumb mistakes I have it completely torn down again, but hopefully it will be going again in another week or so.
 
I run a 38/38 with a non USA dizzy. works great! I actually replaced my non USA Aisan. Gas mileage is the bonus. Add a header and you can get 14 mpg. I solved the uphill problem by using an adjustable fuel pressure unit. The Weber can be rebuilt in about an hour, and the rebuild kit is cheap.
 
The best thing I ever found to make a Weber work well on a Toyota is to take it off and throw it as far as you can. I love my non-USA Aisin carb- great fuel economy (for a Cruiser- 21 MPG highway with a 5 speed and 3:73 gears), great power, runs on almost any angle, and easy to tune. None of these things describes any Weber I have ever owned. I even had a Weber 'expert' who worked on Italian cars tune the thing for me; it ran like a dream...for about a month.

Cheers,

Josh
 
I need to figure out which Weber I have is there an easy way?

I had the conversion done 12 or 15 years ago and love it, I haven't even rebuilt it in the last 100k+ miles.

I wish I had the same carb on my 84 FJ60, the carb on that truck is stock and it is a POS.
 
Hi all,
I wrote this mail below to Man a fre and afrer reding some feed-backs it made me worried, so if you would like to help me to? is it better just to buy a original Carburator NEW or a WEBBER? and how about the exhaust etc?

My Name is Andre de Zeeuw and I live in Indonesia, I am extremely interested in the FJ40POWERPACKC 1/79-1983 FJ40 Performance Kit; Please advice the information you need from me to find-out exactly what year my FJ40 - 2F Engine is the car is from 1978 but I think the Engine is from 1981, I could give you the imprinted numbers on the Cylinder-head etcetera? Definitely I do not need to worry about fuel efficiencies, etc I only need a lot more power, when I racing I always get second (3x already) out of 40 cars….. I want to be first and beat the fastest TURBO on the Island, ha ha. The good thing is I always beat the other turbo cars with my 2F stock engine…..

1. The 1968-9/1973 USD 1,650.00
2. The 1974-12/1978USD 1,705.00
3. The 1/1979-1983 USD 1,565.00

I do need to worry about the following;

1. My car is for serious mud-bogging, so do you have a good suggestion on CARB & Cables so the water does not go inside, now I seal everything with a lot of Silicon.

2. Do you have a book to maintain/adjust the WEBBER and also for the 2F engine like HAYNES?

3. Now my ignition system is “”Magnetic High Energy Electronic Ignition Porter”” from Canada this has a separate coil attached and the original ignition distributor is still in place, just the inside is striped of the platinum and replaced with the Canada part, not a perfect solution, on your system there is no separate Coil as on the picture attached?

6. I do need a super good guidance for installation as I am just a normal mechanic, nothing special.

7. Do I need spare-parts for this installation? Or does the ignition distributor not wear down or break?

Many thanks,
Andre de Zeeuw
 
rocman1 to answer your question, no you will not get any more performance, nothing that you will feel anyway. My carb was shot, leaking like a siv, so i put a 32/36 weber on. Im sure the gas mileage is better, but i dont feel any more power. The carb works fine, but it doesnt add a bunch of power like i was hoping, and like the advertisement had said. Ive read mixed things about webers, but the general consensus is to rebuild the stock carb. Maybe they would work better with an upgraded ignition system, but the stock carb probably would as well. Also i heard that the 38/38 was the best way to go, but with the 1F that i have, it would be too much gas for the engine to handle. Thats why i went with the 32/36.
 
Now I a bummed after reading this, I have a webber on order already paid for, I wish I just would have ordered an Aisin
 
I run a Weber 32/36 jetted for high altitude, DUI distributor and Man a Fre 6 into 1 exhaust. Rejetting the carb and adding the DUI have made it run greatest difference. I can't compare it to a stock setup but if you take the time to set up the carb properly it will run well.
 
Don't be bummed. I ran my 38/38 for a few years and loved it. Then I started getting a rich condition I couldn't figure out and some stumble on really steep obstacles. Turns out I had a leak at the manifold(s). I pulled it and sold it only because I went to propane instead. Don't let everyone tell you they are no good, because when mine was dialed in, it made a measurable difference in performance, and I got 15mpg rather consistently.

:beer: R
 
I dont think their bad, but their not LIGHT YEARS AHEAD OF YOUR STOCK CARB. Like the advertisement said.
 
Been running my webber for 6 years now. Runs great even off camber. DUI and headers definetly helped. Never had any problems with the webber. Never driven a cruiser with the aisin so cant really compare the two, but love the webber.
 
Been running a Webber for about 10 years because I didn't know any better at the time. It runs fine gets good gas mileage and runs rich. Always has. I still have the Asin and will eventually go back to it. Most of the folks that think their trucks run so much better with the Webber are the people that had worn out 30+ year old carbs. The best bet is to have the Asin reworked and you'll be better off. I see you did the right thing.

Later,
 
i had a weber 34/34 and ended up haveing the asian carb completly redone. new bushings around the butterfly valve shafts fixed the majority of the origonal problem i had with it(cost me 200 or so). my weber carb sits in the corner and i beet on it with a hammer when things dont go well for me. best 500$ i spent.
 
what type of weber??

I have a weber in desperate need of tuning. How do I figure out what model I have?? Also, does anyone know a good shop around the Allentown, PA area for tuning one?? I am clueless....:frown::frown:
 

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