Weather strip not correct size? (1 Viewer)

[Scota4570]

1970 FJ40

More weather-strip issues. The door does not close properly. It is very hard to close at all. The door is a full 5/16" to high at the back in relation to the body. I looks like crap.

This is not a hinge, or striker adjustment issue. If I move the striker plate in the door can not be latched. Closing the door is way to tight. Will it squish over time?

I only glued the side that is parallel to the outside of the body so it could squish fully. TO me the weather-strip is way to thick. It is bending the door.

They previously sold me weather-strip for the tube rim that was not usable. IT was to thick, and for a later model. The '70 never used that stuff in the first place.

Was I sold more incorrect weather-strip?

Did I do something wrong?

 

[ginmtb]

Is this OEM weatherstrip? From @Racer65 's website:

Genuine OEM front door weatherstrips for '63 to 6/'72 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40.

Note:

1. It's known that these OEM weatherstrips will make the doors protrude out a bit and harder to close. Things will eventually settle with time.
2. You may want to consider going to the '73-'74 version we reproduced based on Toyota's originals, which have enhanced cutouts for better fit.

It would be interesting to see if the 73-74 weatherstrip would fit (btw, on Racer65's website, the red doors with the weatherstrip are mine )

 

[Scota4570]

SOR Part # 124-04-Kit

​

LEFT FRONT DOOR WEATHERSTRIP RESTORATION KIT - Fits 1963-1974 40 & 45 Series. Kit includes Aftermarket front door weatherstrip, window felts, inner and outer door felt & wiper with clips, window plate, and wind wing weatherstrip. DOES NOT fit early models with Bug Catcher style wind wing windows.

I'm into this for $250 per door already. I should not have to throw it out and start again.

I am obviously very frustrated. This is not my first problem with my $2200 worth of rubber parts. Who sells parts that fit properly?

There is a place near me that charges $100K to make fancy FJ40 resto mods. They must have access to weather-strip that allows the doors to close. IT must be available or they could not be in business. Where should I be parts shopping?

I feel like there is some secret that nobody is telling me.

Despite being upset right now, I appreciate everyone here that has been so helpful.

 

[Firemedic831]

Have you thought of stopping in This Place that Charges 100K. and asking them ?

 

[Scota4570]

That is a good idea. I will try. I was wrong on the price, it is $225K OMG,

The FJ Company - Custom Built For Today's Driver

Authentic classic Land Cruisers, custom-built for today's driver. Build your own FJ40 or FJ43, and view our gallery of completed builds. Modern options, classic Toyota design.

www.fj.co

I'm pretty sure their doors are not jammed so tight the latch works scary hard and requires aggressive slamming to close. The door fit looks good to me in their vehicles.

Picture below, The one on the left was part of the door kit. It is about 1" across.

The one on the right was a temporary patch that I removed. Another guy applied it for my Dad. IT worked OK but was applied to only the lower half of the door. I might source some and use it instead.

The original stuff was much thinner than what I bought, if memory serves. It was more "Nerf" like.

I suspect the weather-strip on the left is not correct for a 1970. Anyone know?

 

[1969FJ]

I did mine 5 years ago, OEM weather seals, and it was tight, but , not as tight as I see from you. The doors needed a healthy push to close. Five years later , they are just about right.

 

[Scota4570]

I do not think I got OEM weather seals.

I need to put the worn striker plate as high as it will go to get a reasonable closing action. I am concerned about trashing the striker plates and latch mech. It is too tight. That is about 5/16" to hihg on the outside for the door to body fit. The provided weather strip is 1"x1". I see this stuff, sponge rubber and 3/4" high. Any guess on how it will fit? It will cost me $160 to find out.

Peel-N-Stick Larger Hollow Round | Steele Rubber Products

A top-quality Peel-N-Stick Larger Hollow Round sponge rubber extrusion manufactured by Steele Rubber Products. Optimal for replacing old, worn or damaged weatherstripping. Ideal for numerous uses.

www.steelerubber.com

 

[ginmtb]

Instead of trying something out that may or may not work, why not get OEM:

OEM Front Door Weatherstrips for '63 to '72 Land Cruiser FJ40

Genuine OEM front door weatherstrips for '63 to 6/'72 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Note: It's known that these OEM weatherstrips will make the doors protrude out a bit and harder to close. Things will eventually settle with time. You may want to consider going to the '73-'74 version we reproduced...

www.cityracerllc.com

$130 for both doors. Roger is as good a vendor there is here on MUD.

 

[Scota4570]

I can not get back to it for a week or so. I'll set the striker to get the correct door fit and let if conform. If it is good enough later then OK. IF not I will by new from Roger.

The ones for 73-74 , on city racer website, appear to be what came with it. The ones I was sold are different. That is if my memory is correct.

Front Door Seal Weatherstrips for '73 to '74 Land Cruiser FJ40

Front door seal / weatherstrips for 07/1972 - 12/1974 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Can also be fitted on earlier doors as an upgrade to the original weatherstrips. Meticulously created, high quality reproduction. Equivalent to OEM part #s 68108-90300 (RH) and 68109-90300 (LH). Discontinued by...

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[1MAC]

I had the same experience when I put door seals on my 65. Holy $#!+ were they tight!
1. They will compress over time, actually pretty quickly
2. Slam the doors, don't push them closed with the door handle or you may dent the door skin.

Lots of threads on this forum from people who've just installed door seals and are freaking out. I was once one of them.

 

[Bloomer]

I had the same experience when I put door seals on my 65. Holy $#!+ were they tight!
1. They will compress over time, actually pretty quickly
2. Slam the doors, don't push them closed with the door handle or you may dent the door skin.

Lots of threads on this forum from people who've just installed door seals and are freaking out. I was once one of them.

Me right now!

 

[TEakins]

I am redoing my front doors' weather seals after 10 years. The first time I tried doing a custom trim with a scalpel to address the tightness. It was a total fail as far as keeping the cold out, but the doors closed easier lol. Now everything is over compressed and 10 years old so I am going to try it again. I bought a big jar of talc when I put my hardtop back on (it worked great), so my plan is to lube up the channels in the weather strip with talc and see if that helps. Rubber likes talc.

 

[Scota4570]

My door seals did eventually squish enough to work. I regret cutting around the strikers.

The tub to top seal was not usable on mine. I did not try talc. Mine never had the big cushy rubber than went over the rim of the tub as made by MR. T. When I tried to install it the fit of the tub to top was so bad that I could not make the bolts fit. I ended up throwing the seal away/

I used only the flat one as made originally, and it is OK.

 

[igotta40]

I did mine in 2006. Doors wouldn’t close at all. They were either from SOR or CCOT, I don’t remember. I had to split them and trim with a razor. They work but look like trash.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Mine is a 76, so different gaskets - but giving them a little rub with dish soap can help get the door to close with the new stripping. After a couple days of sitting closed, they behaved a bit better. Without the soap, I couldn't get my doors closed initially as the fluffy gaskets would bind a bit vs bedding in.

May not be your issue, but it's an easy thing to try.