Water Can Spigot Solution

[jonheld]

So I spent some time scouring the plumbing and garden departments at my local Home Depot and came up with what I think is a very viable solution to controlled dispensing using the Scepter 5 gallon water cans.

Pictured below are the parts needed:

1. Unmolested water can top
2. Good Year hose shutoff (ball valve)
3. New razor blade
4. Brass Quick-disconnect hose adapter
5. Roll of quality electrical tape (3M Super 88)
6. Cool beverage of your choice

 

[jonheld]

The below pic is the object of the game, but with a loose fit.

 

[jonheld]

After a thorough cleaning, I used 4 wraps of electrical tape making sure to stretch it to conform to the shape of the adapter. That was a bit too thick so I removed about an inch of tape at a time, making sure to cut as cleanly as possible until I achieved what I think is a very tight seal.

 

[jonheld]

Below is a picture of the final product which I think is just neato. I will fill and check for leaks but find it hard to believe there will be any.

 

[vtcruiser60]

Kudos....nice solution!!!!

 

[woytovich]

I'll be interested to see how the electrical tape holds up to the water and the friction of pushing it in/out... I'm not convinced it's a long-term solution. (No offense Jon)

I too spent some quality time at the Depot today (really there to buy a ceiling fan and dehumidifier) looking at plumbing hardware. I was considering drilling and tapping the same cap that you replaced to add a fitting to attach a ball valve but I'm scared to drill the cap and not be able to get a replacement so:

I have an email in to LCI to see if they sell parts. If I can get the whole big 5" cap I'm going to drill a new 1/2 hole in the ample empty space on there and add a fitting and ball valve. If I can only get the small garden hose-ish size cap (like the one you replaced here) I'll feel more comfortable drilling a hole in one to make it a valve version...

Either way I'll just swap caps from the stock flavor to the valve flavor for use.

 

[jonheld]

I'll be interested to see how the electrical tape holds up to the water and the friction of pushing it in/out... I'm not convinced it's a long-term solution. (No offense Jon)

I admit it's a bit hokey, but it is a very tight fit. I don't plan to remove the fitting, just add a cap next time i'm at HD. The only part that gets removed is the hose shut off. Even if the adhesive loosens up over time it will still seal well. That's what electrical tape does for a living.

In any case it's completely reversable. We'll see what happens at the Fall Gathering. If I loose 5 gallons of water, I loose 5 gallons of water. That's why I have 2.

Ideally what I was looking for was some sort of bulkhead fitting to fit inside the existing port. I have another similar idea, but we'll see how this hold up.

 

[woytovich]

Here's the first draft of my idea. This would require drilling a new hole in the large 5" cap, using the threaded adapter and nut (the leftmost grey parts already partially threaded together, they are electrical conduit pieces), a VERY short piece of PVC and to an adapter and then into the 1/2" PVC ball valve (and then probably a 45 degree elbow to aim the water stream downward during use.)

Total so far: $3.64 (without the elbow)

I suppose if I used a short m/m brass nipple I could do away with the 2 adapters and the short piece of PVC... but I want to be able to easily remove the valve for transport... maybe nut/nipple/nut with enough thread left to thread on the valve or a cap... hummm.... back to HD tomorrow!

I had a much cooler looking 1/2" brass valve in my hand (1/2" to 45 degree to garden hose male thread) but for the same 1/2 pipe thread size the water passage was considerably more restrictive than the PVC version. I might go with it anyway because the overall length will be much shorter.

 

[woytovich]

This is really what we want... but it might be a bit $$$... add a plug for transport and a valve for dispensing and you are done...

Double Threaded Bulkhead (Schedule 80, Heavy Duty)

or this which is cheaper.... off to the marine supply store tomorrow!

http://tinyurl.com/pgzslb

.

 

[rhyary]

I like marine stuff for the cruiser. They are typically well made and more durable.

 

[jonheld]

How about tapping the inside of the existing spout to 1/2" NPT?
Add a PVC ball valve and cap and you're done.

 

[woytovich]

I will be ordering up a couple of replacement caps to try to R&D a solution... if there is enough meat there the tap solution would be sweet... do you have a 1/2" NPT tap?

 

[jonheld]

just ordered one. I'll let you know how it works. Order a replacement cap for me in case I bugger it up.

 

[jonheld]

Another Idea

So I ordered a ½”-14 NPT tap from McMaster for $16 and gave it a shot on one of my water can tops. This took quite a bit of time as the plastic is much softer than any metal. I needed to run the tap through no less than 15 times before it started to come back clean. There is still quite a bit of plastic slag left on the threads, but some Teflon tape should take care of that nicely. I think it came out OK, and the test fit I did with a brass ½” fitting worked well, but tightening it down with a metal fitting will strip out the threads for sure. I’m going back to HD tomorrow to see what they have in ½” PVC.

Some pictures for your enjoyment.

 

[woytovich]

Sweet! Maybe some sort of a flanged fitting with a soft neoprene washer would mean you don't have to tighten it down so much...

I'm trying to get to a marine supply to take a look at bulkhead fittings... time has NOT been on my side...

 

[Bogo]

Use teflon tape and goop, or just glue it if you feel it can be permanent. Check the glue for compatibility with the plastics.

 

[jonheld]

Final Solution

I might have blown the budget here. I had to spend another $7 on fittings. Bought a ½” glue on ball valve, a ½”x3” nipple, and a ½” elbow which I didn’t use.

Filled it up to the top with no leaks whatsoever, save a drop or 2 from the breather valve when the can is very full. There is a fair amount of torque required to turn this ball valve and I noted some deflection on the cap stem, but I don’t think it will be an issue unless we’re talking sub-zero temps. In that case water wouldn’t really be a concern.

I am going to tap my other cap the same way and simply unscrew the fittings when not in use.

 

[woytovich]

The brass valve I had looked at turned much easier than the PVC valves... but, as I said, it has a smaller water passage. Maybe that's not a problem though.

 

[woytovich]

Left to right:
- 3/4" coupling to use as a nut on the inside to hold the bushing to the cap
- pen (standing in for the cap surface)
- 3/4" bushing (threaded 3/4 outside, 1/2 inside)
- 1/2 valve (to angled down garden hose fitting)

- 1/2 plug (remove valve and screw in plug for low-profile transportation mode)

I'll drill a 3/4" hole in the lid.
I might add a large washer to increase the strength of the material around the hole.
I might cut the coupling in half to reduce the distance it sticks out - or not.
I may add silicone to the PVC to cap mating area to help keep it watertight.

.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

It's an old-ish post, but check out this solution on Ex-port: Military Water Can spigot mod - Expedition Portal Forum