Builds WAS: 68 FJ40 in Seattle, Now: My 68FJ40 build thread

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I've used this stuff, and how well (even whether) it works depends on what was used to paint over the original paint. In my experience, the citrus stripper won't touch the original paints at all. I first tried it on my glovebox door, and it ate up the rattle can paint the PO sprayed on but the original pewter was undamaged by the stripper.

But the paint applied on top of the original exterior bandaid color was every bit as tough as the factory paint, and the citrus didn't soften any of it.

I'd test it on an inconspicuous place with a short time first. If results are OK, then proceed. To save scrubbing time, give more soaking time. Put it on heavy enough to not dry out, and let it sit 15-20 minutes at least. 30 may be better. But don't let is dry out. Follow with plain water rinse.
 
I wonder if this will work on my 60 as well. I hate the metallic blue that was sprayed over the perdy true blue.
Well I finally learned I couldn't find out thinking very hard from my arm chair. I had to just bite the bullet and go for it.
 
She got her original seats back, done up in Coral. Roll bar is coming out soon, and I'll put that new drivers floor in. Gonna get a real choke cable from @RAGINGMATT .

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I see it has the common horn button replacement. Bought a few with the same button. Horn button isn't the best design. Size years old when I got my 68 and it wasn't working. Even back then had OCD and repaired the horn button (not that hard) verses installing something aftermarket.

What is the second button for on the bottom of the dash by the hand brake handle?


Wish I could rub off the paint and get the original Capri Blue back. Only problem is the top iafter I put it on it side and I found a 73 beige top for $200. Prices were a little cheaper in the late seventies. Still wish could go back to original color. Maybe some day.
 
@cruiserboy14, I got the citrus stripper at Ace hardware. ~14 bucks. I've seen it in bigger jugs but they didn't carry those. Good rubber gloves are handy, thin ones break.
(Edit: I've found Walmart carries a brand of it too, but have't tried it yet.)
Thanks to @oregon fj for telling me about this stuff.
@Living in the Past, strip the body to capri blue, and repaint your top to match?
I'd like to get the original horn working. One thing at a time. Hope there is a thread. The white horn button does work, but the reflect is not to reach around for it. I recall my old VW horn just going off on its own when ever it felt like it, at most inconvenient occasions.

The little black button under the dash? A complete mystery to me. Nothing happens when I push it. I haven't traced it. It seems quality so I wondered if it wasn't supposed to be there. I don't know much, and less about '68's, but am liking the vintage's transition from early to subsequent models. I'll be refitting her with the early '68 acorns like she came with.
 
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Well I finally learned I couldn't find out thinking very hard from my arm chair. I had to just bite the bullet and go for it.
But it’s so comfortable. And besides, if you do all the hard work figuring things out we don’t have to work so hard. Such a deal! :p
 
I think I had the thinnest applied most threadbare patch last night, tonight was harder.
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I'm not particularly fond of Spring Green, but I _AM_ fond of original paint. If the dark green can be stripped like that over the whole truck, that's HUGE. A lot of work, but I'd do it if it were mine.
 
So the last couple of posts bring up a question wrt stripping new paint to get to the original paint. What about damaged areas that get fixed (new metal)? Should those be painted in an as-best match color, or left in a primer color, or left to rust (assuming patina was another objective)? I have a fair number of repairs to do which will be done regardless of my decision to leave repaint as is, stip to original or completely strip and repaint in new paint. More arm chair thinking before I get to hard work like @HelloKitty65 .
 
This is no longer an academic question. The conventional wisdom is a patina rig has to start sound to look good. I figuired I could manage with what I had. Then tonight i tried some Saran Wrap over the paint stripper. Bad idea. It was a short 'soak' but it took all PO and oem paint, and oem primer off a big patch of my left fender. Bare metal there now. Don't relish buying two front fenders, so will experiment with this, and other smaller patches. Any ideas, send 'em on. Are there patina body shops?
 
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I didn't know the bezel came in this brownish ivory, but I like it. Other threads talk about a tan bezel and top in ~'71. This might be the color.
 
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Meh, don’t worry about it— will add to charm. My 69FST is very much like yours (nice darkerish green (which I like) but original white OEMwhich I know is not like yours). Except for the paint, mine is very stock. Love your project and love the 40s— love to tinker with then. Keep up the good work!
 
Found an EBay pic of an early (June, 1965) FJ40 with the tan bezel _and_ roof, spring green color combination. By other MUD conversations, these colors were around into at least the early 70's.
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I'm going to get those /×#@%* choke and throttle knobs out and fixed if it's the #^&](& last thing I do.
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