Thicker rotors from the Tundra, not bigger. I have the rotor and caliper upgrade made by Brian Jowett on my 2011. I have not had overcooked rotors since upgrading 100k ago.
Warped New PowerStop Rotors š¢
- Thread starter bgladd
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Yes they are Toyota parts from the local dealer. OEM Rotors and TRD Pads. I live on salt water, water front, BUT my other vehicles do not have this metal flaking off the rotors.
My my inventory in parts from the Toyota 40% off sale has now been depleted.
I'm leaning towards Napa's Reactive one. Those have worked out really well on my Ram.
TRD pads is maybe Toyota however not the way they deliver them new to you. Maybe perfectly fine, maybe a combination which is not optimum.
As mentioned by another MUD'er, sea or salt conditions may have nothing to do with the pitting on the rotor.
Where you park and related humidity and or exposure to repeat rain or say a sprinkler together with time between drives will probably make the difference. I would also think the rotor and pads material since pitting is a preferential corrosion process.
I guess worth trying a different combination and see what happens.
I personally would try one more time OEM rotors and regular OEM (non TRD) pads, but whatever floats your boat.
I'm not sure if this is helpful at all - but Toyota sells two different pad options for most vehicles. The original style ADVICS ones and then a cheaper option that usually has AZ in the part number. I've had bad experiences twice with those. In my 2015 4R I had the dealer turn rotors and new pads that were supposed to be the original ones but got the crappy ones. Noisy and warped rotors within about 6 months. Actually warped - about .010 runout on one side. It's nearly impossible to measure runout when they're hot - so who knows how much variation they have once they heat up. Replaced with new OEM rotors and new OEM original pads and never looked back.
Same general experience on my RX350 with dealer brake job. New OEM rotors and pads fixed it and hasn't been an issue again.
Current Tundra had brakes done by dealer as part of my purchase, unfortunately it was a Honda dealer - they said it was part of their car prep that was included in all used cars - fresh brakes, new battery, oil change, wipers, etc. Fine - go for it. I didn't put any value in that and didn't pay for it so why not let them put new brakes on? Here we are a year later and they're pulsing. Not sure what they used, but I'd bet they were something cheap. I ended up ordering OEM rotors and new pads all around on their way. Fingers crossed that they all work as well as the originals did. Toyota has free shipping on most parts during April and I called the dealer to confirm that they'll even cover rotors to Alaska so I've got them ordered.
I'm interested in this one because it's a similar brake setup with the Tundra. And it seems like this thread is a constant problem. Aftermarket and possibly even OEM rotors are so hit or miss. It's so hard to know what to buy because it seems like they're all the same - half the reviews of any brand say they're rubbish and half the reviews have 100k miles of perfect service. Maybe someone like Project Farm could do a massive brake rotor objective test to compare a bunch of different brands to see if there really is a difference and which ones are better than others.
Same general experience on my RX350 with dealer brake job. New OEM rotors and pads fixed it and hasn't been an issue again.
Current Tundra had brakes done by dealer as part of my purchase, unfortunately it was a Honda dealer - they said it was part of their car prep that was included in all used cars - fresh brakes, new battery, oil change, wipers, etc. Fine - go for it. I didn't put any value in that and didn't pay for it so why not let them put new brakes on? Here we are a year later and they're pulsing. Not sure what they used, but I'd bet they were something cheap. I ended up ordering OEM rotors and new pads all around on their way. Fingers crossed that they all work as well as the originals did. Toyota has free shipping on most parts during April and I called the dealer to confirm that they'll even cover rotors to Alaska so I've got them ordered.
I'm interested in this one because it's a similar brake setup with the Tundra. And it seems like this thread is a constant problem. Aftermarket and possibly even OEM rotors are so hit or miss. It's so hard to know what to buy because it seems like they're all the same - half the reviews of any brand say they're rubbish and half the reviews have 100k miles of perfect service. Maybe someone like Project Farm could do a massive brake rotor objective test to compare a bunch of different brands to see if there really is a difference and which ones are better than others.
bloc
SILVER Star
Nope, 16+/Tundra is larger diameter but same rotor thickness. Itās still more iron which means more thermal capacity though.
My dealer installed OEM set was heavily deposited and pulsed badly after only 20k. Perhaps that was the odd part you were referring to? Never heard of more than reg vs. TRD pads. Do you have part numbers?
Tundra forum is littered with the same complaints. T pad compound is just not good for these applications.
- Thread starter
- #27
Part number for those nicer pads?
I'm pretty sure these are the ones for the tundra/LC200. 04465-AZ220 All of the cheap version pads I've seen have "AZ" in the part number. The crappy part is that they're only about $20-$30 cheaper and seem to be pretty universally hated.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Just food for general thiught re rotors on our heavy 290sā¦
Riding the brakes on down-hill can warp ANY rotor due to massive heat, which tends to be followed by uneven cooling (not to mention you can suddenly be in a very dangerous scenario where super-heated brake pads can no longer stop you).
With proper use of lower gears on long descents, even stock rotors on super-heavily-built 200s will last for years. But with poor braking habitsā¦ it can become damaging and dangerous extremely quickly.
Not saying you abused your rotorsā¦ I donāt know. Butā¦most people tend to abuse unless they very deliberately form new brake-use habits and prevention strategiesāespecially in locales like Colorado, where long, steep descents are common.
Especially if you are using the radar cruise control. I found it would downshift some, but often used the brakes on long hill descents for long periods of time. I never use the cruise control on declines for this exact reason.
I've had a lot of success with this combo over the last 100k miles.
This is what Brian Jowett supplied with his brake kits and I've been using them ever since.
@bjowett
This is what Brian Jowett supplied with his brake kits and I've been using them ever since.
@bjowett
I live in Florida.. it's flat. We do go to the mountains on occasion.
This is the 4th time I've had warping with OEM Toyota rotors. First with OEM Pads and then with TRD pads and then with OEM pads and again with TRD pads.
Then take those warped rotors down a mountain road and they really exaggerates the issue.
None of my several other vehicles have warped rotor issues. Just the Toyota with the OEM rotors.
It's been a disappointment.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Wow. Really strange to hear that, because believe it or not, I only replaced rotors many years into ownership, and long after heavy builds and heavy off-road use.
Oem have been crazy good to me even running huge mountains and weighing ip yo 8400 includi g several years running 35ās and many more running 34ās.
bloc
SILVER Star
IMO this has more to do with driving style and possibly pad choice than rotor quality, though I believe Genuine Toyota to be among the highest build quality available.
I also warped two sets of OEM rotors in the first 30k. Power stops have been good for the last 15k.
IMO this has more to do with driving style and possibly pad choice than rotor quality, though I believe Genuine Toyota to be among the highest build quality available.
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I wonder what the variables are between you, me and those having issues. I'm @49k miles, original everything, pads will go at least awhile longer. Rotors are smooth as is the pedal feel. I drive real easy, but it's mostly my wife's beast, and she drives "normal."
Lucky, I guess.
bloc
SILVER Star
The primary factor here is pad deposits on the rotors. Very hot pads sitting in one spot leave more deposits there, changing the friction coefficient and thickness of that spot, which makes more heat get produced in that spot, which transfers more material in that spot.. which causes more heat.. etc etc etc.
Driving in a way that reduces hot pads sitting stationary will prevent this problem. That can be hard to do for certain people given the roads they often travel. Or, different pads that may transfer less material, or are more mechanically abrasive to the rotor surface to better scrub it of deposits. But that wears rotors out more quickly.
As for why this is a problem on so many 200s vs peopleās other cars: I do believe the system is worked pretty hard given the mass of the vehicle compared to that of the brake system. We probably have a limited amount of iron to absorb heat before temps get high enough to cause this phenomenon for some.. but other ways of driving (like whatever @Markuson does) donāt trigger the feedback loop.
Iāll admit that it is a āthingā.. however there are enough heavy, large tire built 200s not suffering from it doing nothing especially crazy with brake parts that it is clearly preventable and not a fundamental weakness of the stock parts.
For the record my driving style absolutely destroyed a set of factory pads.. the material was literally falling apart. TRD pads on stock rotors increased the dust and rotor wear significantly but completely addressed the pad degradation issue. I will say if Iām not careful they can get uneven deposits as well (but nothing I canāt address with some specific braking applications) so my next go around will be with something different. I havenāt started researching what that will be though.
Same story, CPO at 42k miles, pulsed out the lot bad on the way home.
Dealer replaced all OEM, lasted all of 20k before mad pulsing again. Replaced myself at 62k miles with EBC. Ill try DBA eventually too but im happy with the EBC so far, outside of some fit issues and squeak which is my fault.
I donāt think the rotors were to blame though, the Toyota pads howeverā¦ pure garbage.
