Warped Block 1Fz-Fe (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 3, 2021
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Location
USA
This sucks. I had a cracked head and I am building a new head. No overheating occurred. Now, I found out my block is warped 0.006" lower at #6 end, passenger side. This warpage seems to be consistent with the cylinder head crack (on top between #4 and #5, exhaust side). I had rebuilt the engine over a year ago, 17,500 miles. Block was decked and cylinders only needed honing. Head was machined with a valve job.

What could cause the block to warp?

I thank this forum for all the past and future support.
 
If you heated it up enough anything can warp, that said I have yet to see one warped, pitted yes but not warped. Did you measure for straightness after decking?
 
I know you said it didn't overheat but these heads rarely crack and the block warping is even less common. Heat is the only thing that I can think of that would do that. Improperly torquing the head could crack in but probably long before 17k
 
Never seen a warped block on 25 plus rebuilds. Not saying it can’t happen would be an anomaly for sure. You going to have it machined?
 
If you heated it up enough anything can warp, that said I have yet to see one warped, pitted yes but not warped. Did you measure for straightness after decking?
I didn't have a precision straight edge at the time. I think I just eye-balled it with a 2-foot Stanley level; having faith in the machine shop.
 
I know you said it didn't overheat but these heads rarely crack and the block warping is even less common. Heat is the only thing that I can think of that would do that. Improperly torquing the head could crack in but probably long before 17k
My block #'s don't match, so the block is not original. I've had this truck for 18+ years. Wondering if the cylinder head was milled one too many times. I can measure and compare with the new head.
 
Never seen a warped block on 25 plus rebuilds. Not saying it can’t happen would be an anomaly for sure. You going to have it machined?
Yes. I am looking at machining and a thicker head gasket once I get out of this depression. Not excited about pulling the motor again. I wonder if the previous machine shop messed up last time. It's low .003 to .006 at the #6 end of the block.
 
Consider also checking your straight edge against another (or have the machine shop check theirs). They can get damaged.

The first straight edge I purchased years ago wasn't precision, then the replacement they sent wasn't either. These were Starrett brand which has a good reputation but IIRC after talking with the company they said they had farmed out production of their straight edges to someone else and had a bad batch. Might have been a one off (or two off). FWIW
 
Consider also checking your straight edge against another (or have the machine shop check theirs). They can get damaged.

The first straight edge I purchased years ago wasn't precision, then the replacement they sent wasn't either. These were Starrett brand which has a good reputation but IIRC after talking with the company they said they had farmed out production of their straight edges to someone else and had a bad batch. Might have been a one off (or two off). FWIW
I will check it. At least flip the straight edge around and see if I get the same measurements. Thanks!
 
I will check it. At least flip the straight edge around and see if I get the same measurements. Thanks!

If you turn it around, end for end, it won't change a bend in a straight edge.

If your straight edge has two straight edges, roll it over and try with the other edge
 
Numbers don't match what?

Pretty certain frame and engine numbers aren't matched from the factory.
The only vin # on a 1fz is a stamped plate on the head. Which is removed if you have a supercharger.
 
Yeah, I had a machine shop deck a block and bore the cylinders, that deck was so fkn wavy that you could go surfing on it lol. This cylinders we're bored .006 over spec. This is a common thing with machine shops, especially in my area. I reckon to find a high quality machine shop would cost more than a factory short block and new bare head. Highly recommend to go with the factory short block and buy yourself a brand new head, unless you like headaches.
 
Yeah, I had a machine shop deck a block and bore the cylinders, that deck was so fkn wavy that you could go surfing on it lol. This cylinders we're bored .006 over spec. This is a common thing with machine shops, especially in my area. I reckon to find a high quality machine shop would cost more than a factory short block and new bare head. Highly recommend to go with the factory short block and buy yourself a brand new head, unless you like headaches.
Yeah. I can see-saw the straight edge on the worst part of the block. I did get a new head from Capo Valley Toyota.
 

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