Warn M15000 motor - is this one salvageable? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 2, 2023
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Location
Virginia
Got a M15000 that I purchased new back in 2002 and had it on my truck ever since. Hasn't been working for the last 10 years and I finally decided to get it fixed.

Solenoids are fine, but motor won't turn. Got it off the truck and on the bench and was shocked at the condition it was in. Never been submerged, but not covered since its mounted in a Rio Grande Kit on my 2002 Chevy 3500 Duramax.

Here she is before I pulled it out:

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Removed the cable years ago since I couldn't get it to roll in all the way with the motor not working.

Here's the armature:

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And the brush basked which is still stuck in the finned end cap:

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2 of the brushes broken when I started moving them:

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Is this motor to damaged to attempt to revive?

Main issue as stated above is that I'm not able to separate the brush assembly from the end cap. And even if I was able clean it up, can I get brushes for the motor. (Warn 38894). It seems that it has been superseded by Warn 74756. That motor does not have the finned end cap, so I don't know if that means the duty cycle is less?

It did in fact go ahead and order a 74756, but what I got was a 77505, which I guess superseded 74756?

It looks stout enough:

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But again, I'd prefer to get the original motor going and keep this one as a spare.

Let me know if you guys think that old motor is worth messing with. I got the armature soaking in Evapo_Rust now to see if that is even usable still.

Would also appreciate any tips on how to get the brush assembly separated from the end housing.

During its 21 year life, the M15000 has mad maybe 20 hours of actual use on it. Drum, brake and gearbox all look good, its just the motor that hasn't aged well at all.

Thanks and glad to have found this forum!
 
I have pretty much decided just to use the new motor I got and maybe look at seeing what can be done with the old one down the road.

Got everything disassembled at this point:

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The cap for the remote broke off years ago, allowing water to enter here:

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Do they make a replacement cap? If not, what can I do to prevent water from getting into the connectors?

I decided to remove the entire Warn Rio Grande kit from the truck since the frame extenders and support brackets got bent years ago in an accident.

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Didn't get to spent as much time as I had hoped on this today, as I had some big maple stumps I wanted to pull out as I'm excavating for a pond.

Got the first one out pretty easily using 4 snatch blocks for a 5:1 ratio:

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2nd stump got me though. I was able to pull it this far:

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I then re-rigged, removing 2 of the snatch blocks, so only a 3:1 ratio now. And then I snapped the winch cable I was using (cheapo HF Badland 3/8" cable). They claim its rated @ 12,000 lbs. working load. With 2 snatch blocks, that would mean I was pulling @ 36,000 lbs. which I found hard to believe since my tractor only weight about 12,000 lbs. with front and rear grabbles mounted.

Anyway, I guess I'll pick up another Badland winch cable in the morning and not deviate from using 4 snatch blocks for all the remaining pulls.

Once I get the M15000 back in business, I'll switch over to using it, since it has 7/16" cable and I would imagine be rated for at least 15,000 lbs. like the winch.

Anyway, just thought I'd share something else I was working on since I'm new here. :)
 
Another angle just before re-rigging for 2 snatch blocks:

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Busted cable:

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Also lost a good bit of aluminum from one of the snatch block pulleys:

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Those (again cheap HF Badland ones) are supposedly rated for 20,000 lbs. But it sure doesn't seem like it to me...

Just for grins, I tried a straight pull with a chain, but it bared got the stump to lift:

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I'll fight the maples some more tomorrow, they are not going anywhere, lol.
 
Was able to spend a little time over the holiday weekend making a bit of progress on this project.

Got the fairlead rollers polished as best I could on a 8" brass steel wheel on my grinder:

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This is what they looked like before:

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Compared to what they looked like before, that's quite an improvement. Also got all the replacement parts in now:

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Krylon Fusion Metallic Dark Metal looks to be a close match color wise. Once I get all the aluminum pieces cleaned up, I'll hit them with some POR 15 Cleaner Degreaser, then POR 15 Metal Prep which is an aluminum compatible etcher. Hopefully that will form a decent base for the Krylon to stick to.

Got the gears and gear housing cleaned up as well.

My driveshaft does show some wear:

IMG_E4845.jpg

But I'm thinking I can flip it around when re-installing so those worn edges won't be engaging anything.

I'm thinking I'll re-use the nylon drum bushings and trust wasters as they don't look to have much wear on them.
 

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