Want to buy a FJ40??

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Feb 16, 2012
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Hi I am new to this forum. I am thinking about buying an post 76 FJ40 and I was hoping to get some advice before buying. I have loved this truck since I saw it the first time and drove it the first time back in the late 1980is – so I am committed and should have the mech. skills, though for it to make sense the car should serve as a partial daily driver.
1. Would a maintained FJ40 be reliable in cold and inclement weather?

2. How hard is it to get parts for it? – I would assume body parts can be hard to get?

3. Are most common maintenance parts readily available? and where to get them?

4. What problems are most common for a maintained FJ40?

5. Are parts much more expensive than for newer cars?
The one I have my eyes on is a 76 with 130k miles and it is from NM – would rust be considered a big issue given it is from NM? and if so where is the rust particular?

Thank you in advance
Martin
 
Hi I am new to this forum. I am thinking about buying an post 76 FJ40 and I was hoping to get some advice before buying. I have loved this truck since I saw it the first time and drove it the first time back in the late 1980is – so I am committed and should have the mech. skills, though for it to make sense the car should serve as a partial daily driver.
1. Would a maintained FJ40 be reliable in cold and inclement weather?

2. How hard is it to get parts for it? – I would assume body parts can be hard to get?

3. Are most common maintenance parts readily available? and where to get them?

4. What problems are most common for a maintained FJ40?

5. Are parts much more expensive than for newer cars?
The one I have my eyes on is a 76 with 130k miles and it is from NM – would rust be considered a big issue given it is from NM? and if so where is the rust particular?

Thank you in advance
Martin
1. I drove mine every day year round for many many years. No problems there
2. There are a few after market sources for body parts but even a badly rusted truck can be repaired with patience and a wire welder.
3. Most common mechanical parts are available from NAPA, Autozone or Oriely. Many are still available from Toyota.
4. Adjusting the rear drum brakes, not hard but they need regular attention. Other than that general air filters, hoses, battery cables, oil changes, just normal stuff.
5. I find parts to be comparable in price to newer Land Cruisers, can't really talk to other makes and models since all I own are LC's.

My rule of thumb is the rust you can see is about 10% of the real problem. Look for blistered paint along the bottom edges of the doors, on the front fenders where the supports attach to them and along the rear sill. These are the most common problem spots.
 
Read, read, read. Parts are available cheaper than new cars if you are patient. It makes a lot of difference if you have another car and you can have it down for a week without missing it. Look through the classifieds forum and see what I mean.
 
NM would probably be one of the southwest states you could find a pretty rust free cruiser. I live in AZ and they do show up here pretty regularly. A nice 78 was just picked up here within the last week or so. But since these have all been around for many years it hard to know where they have been their whole life. Carfax doesn't work on pre 81s. If your not buying local it would go a long way to have someone who knows FJ40s inspect it for rust. A new paint job can cover up a lot of stuff. If you live in a area where rust is a problem then it wouldn't be a nice cruiser for long if your using it in the winter. Probably not worth paying a premium to get a rust free cruiser if you can park it in the winter.
 
I'd love an arizona or NM cruiser here in Utah the Salt Monster gets them!
The only thing that I've needed in the winter is a block heater and this just helps with cold starts.
That makes life easier. I drove mine at least three days a week this winter and loved everysecond!
 
Welcome Martin. 1st question> Are you married? My wife says our 40 is my 1st love ha ha! Even here in the Philippines where 40 are scarce parts can be found eventually. Ours is our only vehicle and daily driver and we both love it! As was mentioned Read, Read, Read and FAQ/Search is a wonderful tool.

Rob
 
It all depends what you like. Staight out of the box, a 79 does not drive like a 76. I have a South American 45 that does not handle like 79 or a 76 because of how it's geared. Some people prefer a 350 instead of a 2f. If it's local, thats a big plus. I prefer all original and must be complete. That way you know what shape the body is in and you don't have to hunt down parts later. Anything like door seals that dry rot can easily be replaced but rust can easily be a deal breaker. Once you work out all the bugs, they drive for ever and are very dependable. If you do decide to get one try to have someone that knows LC's look it over...will help you make a decision a lot easier.
 
I have no problems with my 1977 FJ40 here in Idaho. We have a lot of -0 days and she always starts right up. It does take a little while for her to warm up in the morning, but it gives me time to revel in the sounds and smells that you can only get from an FJ. I am using mine as a daily driver and it's a tank.
 
My '82 has automatic adjusting rear drums which I think is a nice feature to have.
 
20 years, and 100,000 + miles. Only didn't drive it home twice.

1) didn't change the rockers when I replaced the worn out Cam... Leson learned.

2) the bolt in the center of the 42 year old block heater broke... I'd recomend replacing them before theyre that old...:D

People rely on them every day in the third world. Easy to maintain. Can be maintained with basic tools.
 
I'd love an arizona or NM cruiser here in Utah the Salt Monster gets them!


Arizona has a secret, they salt their state highways. Interstate 40 has been being salted for twenty years or more. Black ice is really bad between Flagstaff and Winslow.

Never a problem starting them in the winter. Old ones have hand primers on the fuel pump. No using the starter to fill up the carburator with gas after setting for a few weeks. Just pumped the gas pedal a couple of times, pull the choke and they start right up. I have been on elk hunts in sub zero weather where I start the cruiser and put the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in gear to get the gear oil warmed up while the engine is warming up. Makes shifting a lot easy.
 
Thanks Guys! I am actually stunned over the amount of replies:p - I am a member of another forum - the activity, responsiveness and the knowledge here beats the other forum multifold!!
Rob - yes I am maried with 2 children and they will always come before the FJ40 (just in case MY wife will read this:D).
I know the that there were changes to the engine in 75 and the disc on the front came in 76, but was there other things that changed then? I am asking because I see more 71-72, but some has had the disc installed in the front. Are post 76 less prone to rust or is it the same.
I realize this is a subjective question but would you guys consider the engine power adequate for a commuter where you need to merge in at a reasonable speed? Is it realistic to pay 10-11k for a nice well maintained and rust "free" FJ40?
Thank you in advance
Martin
 
That price sounds good for a nice truck in this market. It's a buyers market, so don't jump on the first rig you find. Those on Craigslist usually sit for months or at least fall from their highly inflated costs.

I'd say power is adequate, however, gearing and top speed are NOT. That is unless you plan on never going above 60.

That's one advantage of a newer truck. Better brakes, bigger gas tank, better highway gearing. 3.73s with a 33 or 31 inch tire will get you cruising at 70.
 
Thanks - So acceleration is adequate due to low gearing? I suppose above 60 is not that comfortable and stable either?? - many years ago since I drove one.
What year did the FJ40 get the window defroster wents? - I see them on 80'ish trucks but not on older trucks - this would be nice when driving in cold weather.
 
I suppose the top speed issues became better in 74 whit the change from 3speed to 4 speed trans? Did this also have a big influense on fuel economy?
 
No, both have 1:1 top gear, newer models got 3.73 changed from the 4.11 of other years.

Mine feels fine at 65+ with the 33s before that 60 it feels about as far as you want to take it. My dad said he would do 62 tops

Feels stable if your steering is in good order.

The older trucks actually could get potentially better fuel economy due to the 1 barrel carb. Negligible IMO.
 
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Thanks Guys! I am actually stunned over the amount of replies:p - I am a member of another forum - the activity, responsiveness and the knowledge here beats the other forum multifold!!
Rob - yes I am maried with 2 children and they will always come before the FJ40 (just in case MY wife will read this:D).
I know the that there were changes to the engine in 75 and the disc on the front came in 76, but was there other things that changed then? I am asking because I see more 71-72, but some has had the disc installed in the front. Are post 76 less prone to rust or is it the same.
I realize this is a subjective question but would you guys consider the engine power adequate for a commuter where you need to merge in at a reasonable speed? Is it realistic to pay 10-11k for a nice well maintained and rust "free" FJ40?
Thank you in advance
Martin

Thanks - So acceleration is adequate due to low gearing? I suppose above 60 is not that comfortable and stable either?? - many years ago since I drove one.
What year did the FJ40 get the window defroster wents? - I see them on 80'ish trucks but not on older trucks - this would be nice when driving in cold weather.

I suppose the top speed issues became better in 74 whit the change from 3speed to 4 speed trans? Did this also have a big influense on fuel economy?

The change from the 4:11 to 3:73 started with the 79 model. Side window defrost vent started with the 78 but was a option not standard. Rear doors went to ambulance starting with the 75 model. Front doors changed at the same time from a two piece to one piece design. The metal go thinner for the first time with 72 model and then again with the 79. A/C and power steering were a option starting in 79. If your concerned about gas mileage a FJ40 isn't for you. The 79 and newer would probabaly be the best which still isn't good.
 

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