waggy springs onto my 40

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Apr 13, 2006
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Edmonton, AB/Vancouver Island, B.C.
ok so im working on my 74 FJ40 and the plan or part of the plan is to put 60 series rears on all four corners of my 40. i have started removing the rear springs already...my thinking is that all i will have to do is change bushings and then move my rear spring hanger (shackel end) back 3" to accomidate for the longer springs...is this correct?

i have not looked as close at the fronts, but i dont think i have room to move my front hanger ahead to acomidate the longer springs...im thinking ill move the rear (non shackel) hanger back the same 3 inches and run with it...this should still give me the longer wheelbase because the pin is centered on the spring correct?

am i on the right track here? to me it dosnt seem like a very difficult or complicated thing to do ...and yes i realize that i will have to lengthen my driveshafts as well
 
The FJ40 rear spring mount is already mounted at the outer most limit of the chassis rail - I doubt you will be able to move it back by 3" without extending the chassis rail - or using a modified bracket
This will then protrude out the back of the truck.
 
for the rear hanger, it's not as much 'moving' it as it is 'spinning' it 180 degrees....there are two rivets to remove and a bit of weld to grind off...with the rivets out, bolt the bracket back into place in the original holes with a pair of grade 8's and get things set into place...a couple stitch welds later to be SURE they stay put is a good idea. IIRC, I even tacked the bolts for more security...

the frame can be 'thin' in that area from age, good idea to use a backing plate inside for more reinforcement.
 
The FJ40 rear spring mount is already mounted at the outer most limit of the chassis rail - I doubt you will be able to move it back by 3" without extending the chassis rail - or using a modified bracket
This will then protrude out the back of the truck.


:confused:


I've done it, and here's about where it ends up with Stock Fj62 rear springs:

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Another view of the same spring hanger:

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Those are the Ruff Stuff "way back" hangers which save you a bit of real estate.


I can't help you with the fronts. It would be hard to get a super long spring in there without extending the frame, though I saw recently one on 53 inch (Ford?) truck springs that worked pretty well.
 
hey cruiserdrew do you have and pics of what the truck looks like with that WB where the axle sits in relation to the body? how much did it end up stretching with the 60 springs in there? i was thinking about 3-4" per axle? i think i might have to mess around a bit with my shock mounts as well because they have been butchered by the PO already...

i think im going to use some 60 series hangers...got some frame bits from John at Radd Cruisers when i picked up the bushings...should work pretty good i think....i hope
 
reversing stock springs = 3.5"...FJ55 rears and FJ60/62 rears are nearly identical, if you center the axle on the spring pin. (reverse both ends = 7"...stock WB is 90", reverse both front and rear and get about 97")

(cheaters fix for those wanting more wheelbase but not finding replacement rears is to simply reverse the stockers and then replace springs when avail....means changing driveshaft lengths only once :) )
 
I just looked into all of these options a few days ago. I spoke with the guys at Proffitt's about all the different options and what the end product is. If a longer wheel base is the goal then reversing the stock spring is the way to go. If the long length of the spring itself is the goal, then the 60 series springs are the ones you want. the 60 series springs require a specific bushing to work with the 40 series shackle pins. the option that seemed to be the best result for what my goal is, is shackle reversal with reversed stock front springs and 55 series rear springs. I think we figured about 5 inches of longer wheel base and a cushy longer rear spring. The point was made that stretching the front more than an inch or two looks funny until you start getting into 37"+ tires. The easy solution for the rear hanger, and the longer springs, is a longer shackle.

Sorry for the jumble I am getting yelled at to come eat.
 
EWheeler: not sure if i should post up here or send a pm...ill try this first though. some questions
what orientation are your rear springs? i dont plan on doing a SR and i think am only looking to stretch my WB 3-4 inches per axle...put me at maybe about a 100" WB when all is said and done . ill be running 35x16x15R tires so...they're plenty big for a stock height truck. i would imagine that you encountered problems with brake line length and also shock mounting locations? I will be using stock 60 hangers and hopefully bolting in place, front hanger staying in stock location and rear hanger being flipped as woody had said previously. also how did the 3/4" shackel bolts work, did you have to drill out your bushings? i have been looking around for 18mm bolts and everyplace wants about $70-80 just for 8 bolts with washers and nuts! sure makes building your own shackles seem like a stupid idea i think thats about all i was wondering about...

Shinichi: my goal for this truck is to have a flexy, low, wheeler from hell...i am able to keep this truck as a trail only truck so offroad performance is mainly what im looking for. so mostly to stretch the WB but also a softer cushier ride. i had the option of using 55 springs in the rear but decided to go 60 springs on all 4 corners simply because they are easier to find if something happens and one breaks...i had both 55 and 60 springs in my yard so finding 2 packs wasnt much of a problem. far as the truck looking goofy with the front axle being more than an inch or 2 forward...i will be able to compensate a little bit for that when i build my tube fenders and i can then center the wheel a fair bit better than stock fenders and ill also be raising the fender height up for clearence so...

my thoughts are not exactly as orderly as they might be...but its 3am and im getting pretty tired...so i figure i have a good excuse :meh::flipoff2:
 
It sure looks like Ewheeler's rear moved way back with the 60 springs. Maybe I missunderstood what I was hearing. Or the perches allowed the axle to move more than just the springs. I have a set of 60 springs, fronts and rears, looking for a home. why two sets of rears? I am not sure how stout Ewheeler's front end will be once it put together:flipoff2:, but I would like to see a finished pic of the whole truck.

YotaWheeler, are you staying spring under? It is going to look pretty mean stretched and low. I like wheeling in my buddy's sua rig, it is about stock, no fenders, and locked up. He rallies it without ever really getting too tipy, it is fun as hell.
 
ok so...not to try and beat a dead horse here but...was outside today checken out the truck and actually holding the 60 springs up to my frame...and if i move my rear mount all the way to the back of my frame im only stretching the WB about 3-4 inches it looks like..i would like to end up with about a 100" WB when all is said and done (both front and rears done) if i flip the springs will that make a SR also nessary? would i have to put the fixed end 60 series hanger at the back of my frame if my springs were flipped to accomidate the military wrap? if i do that its looking like ill be stretching the WB more along the lines of 8" giving me a pretty wicked departure angle...and a good approach once i get the front done.

Shinichi: yes im going to be staying sprung under and running 35" boggers till they wear out (what can i say...they were FREE) i would like to build some tube fenders, sliders and a cage see where that takes me, maybe weld up the rear for now...not really all that sure. she wont be getting done this summer i dont think...im leaving next month for school in edmonton (around 1000 miles away...)
 
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EWheeler: not sure if i should post up here or send a pm...ill try this first though. some questions
what orientation are your rear springs? i dont plan on doing a SR and i think am only looking to stretch my WB 3-4 inches per axle...put me at maybe about a 100" WB when all is said and done . ill be running 35x16x15R tires so...they're plenty big for a stock height truck. i would imagine that you encountered problems with brake line length and also shock mounting locations? I will be using stock 60 hangers and hopefully bolting in place, front hanger staying in stock location and rear hanger being flipped as woody had said previously. also how did the 3/4" shackel bolts work, did you have to drill out your bushings? i have been looking around for 18mm bolts and everyplace wants about $70-80 just for 8 bolts with washers and nuts! sure makes building your own shackles seem like a stupid idea i think thats about all i was wondering about...


  • My rear springs have been flipped around. I re-drilled the military wrap leaf to keep the wrap @ the fixed spring hanger.
  • You are correct with the brake line lengths, I had to extend the hardlines front & rear & I used some longer stainless braided lines from the frame to the axle.
  • In the front, I replaced the stock shock mounts with Ford towers & the rear, I used the stock crossmember. The shocks are mounted to the front of the axle & the rear of the crossmember in the rear.
  • The 3/4" bolts worked great with the 60 bushings, I just had to drill out the ruffstuff spring hanger. They really aren't any cheaper than what you found for the 18mm hardware, I paid $80 for 8 of them at ACE hardware.
 
I am about 1/2 way into similar stuff as ewheeler. I ended up using grade 8 bolts in the 9/16 size from local hardware store, cost under 30$ for 6 of them and they fit the ruffstuff hangers perfectly along with replacement 60 bushings from Specter.
 

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