Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works (1 Viewer)

[bj40green]

A bit more info and reading stuff on Fusible Links.
This a write up from Tom (Lostmarbles).
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/378105-ammeter-fusible-links-late-model-40-series.html

And this is mine for the main FL.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/526232-fusible-link-one-my-78-bj40.html

Rudi

 

[technichen]

Hey Man,
I would like to geting working the proper way. I have a diagram(s) that I found on the coolerman's pages. The main reason to get it right was to see if my alt or my regulator was bad. Plus I would gain the knowledge about the setup. I found the original black fuse holder in a box, along with the fusible link pigtail. Which would line out the ammeter hookups from the 2 fuses. This would bring me back to factory or close to it. Right?
Now, would I be able to adjust the regulator to see if it working correctly, like I've seen on the stand alone regulators? or are these just replacement parts?

 

[bj40green]

Okay, so all the components are still there. The questions is, are they in good shape and what did the PO and why.
Let's try to get the alternator functioning.
Hook up your battery to a charger. You might have to start the engine several times for testing before the alternator is working.
Disconnect the White/Blue from the alternator.
Hook up the Black/Yellow to the IG terminal.
There should be +/- 12V on that wire when the key is in the "on" position.
Hook up a Volt meter to the B terminal on the alternator.
Start engine and check for voltage output.
At idle it should be around 13V, when you rev up above 1200 rpm it should go up to 14.4V. If so the alternator is working.
If not it's time to have a look at the VR which is under that lid with the 2 screws.

Rudi

 

[technichen]

10-4
I'll post up here in a little while and let you know my findings!

 

[technichen]

okay it's pumping out power in the excessive 18 volt. That's way more than I expected to see!

 

[bj40green]

GOOD! There's light in sight.

Hook up the White/Blue to the battery. If you want it to do it the safe way...
Take a piece of AWG 14 wire, (house installation wire will do) about 4 inches and put that is series between the White/Blue and the Positive Battery stud. This way you've created a Fusible Link in case anything goes wrong.

Hook up the voltmeter to the battery.
Start engine, read the voltage.
S-L-O-W-L-Y, very slowly, rev up the engine while looking at the Voltmeter.
The voltage should go up with the rpm's but not exceed 14.4V (14.8V is the limit).

Rudi

 

[technichen]

Ok we are good!!!!

in that last test I also had to replace the batteries in the voltmeter, I may have been getting a false read.

 

[bj40green]

YAHOO!

Now do the same test with your headlights on.
Rev up the engine.... How many volts do you read?

Rudi

 

[technichen]

Photo: Lostmarbles
View attachment 807597

Is there anyway to get better view of this fusible link? Or a diagram of what colors go to each plug? I would like to rewire the plugs to create the factory fusible link.

Thanks again Rudi, you have been so helpful!

 

[bj40green]

I'm going to call you Speedy Gonzales. I understand that you're excited about the progress you're making but let's finish the alternator part first.
We never found what the reason was that the alternator stopped charging.
So open the VR and check the 3 screws for corrosion and/or bad contacts.
Read this thread for more info: -► https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/251255-voltage-regulator-replacement.html
Your alternator is from a 60 series Cruiser.

Did you check this thread from Lostmarbles? https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/378105-ammeter-fusible-links-late-model-40-series.html
It's loaded with pictures.

Back to my previous question.... What's the voltage under load when your headlights are on?

Rudi

 

[technichen]

HAHAHAH

 

[technichen]

YAHOO!

Now do the same test with your headlights on.
Rev up the engine.... How many volts do you read?

Rudi

Sorry, I forgot to answer this question.... I read with out the lights: 13.3v give or
take. With the lights on 12.6-14.4 give or take, keep in mind it has a brand new battery in it. So, I'm sure that is covering the lose for now, and just sending charge as needed (which is whats supposed to be happening). I'll pull the regulator off when I get home and post up some pic of what I find.

 

[technichen]

OK,
I think I may have found the issue. I open the cover to find this:



It appears to have broken in half. There was little holding it together after the screws came out!

 

[bj40green]

Ah-ha, that can be a problem when the VR is getting hot.
What's the plan to fix this? Glue it back together or find a new one?

Rudi

 

[technichen]

As much as I would like to just rig it. I would feel better replacing it. I plan on using it for light trails and expo camping and such. So, I need it to be trust worthy.


edit: *So, this morning I ordered a new setup.

But in the mean time I plan on getting the Fusible links back to the OEM set up and try to get the ammeter hooked up right.
This was is the one I found in a box aof parts that came with it:

 

[technichen]

Hey Rudi,
Just a quick update: Got the new alt in and all is well. Charging is just like its supposed to be. The fusible link is updated and back in place. The ammeter is working I guess???? I still doesn't move (well maybe just slightly) The L wire is hooked up but I never see a light? I actually don't see the purpose for my set up since it connects under the hood anyways...Feel free to comment

 

[bj40green]

Good! Up and running so to say.
The Ammeter will only show a very little movement. You can see that if you switch on your hazard lights. That is a design flaw which Mr. T. overlooked.
Is there a "no charge" light on your dash and is it hooked up properly? That is the big question.

The wire from the L terminal should go to the "no charge" light.
The other side of that light should be hooked up to the "on" position of the ignition key/switch.
Key in "on" position but engine not running = Light on.
Key in "on" position and engine running = Light off (alternator is charging)
Key in "on" position and engine is running = Light on (alternator is not charging)

Rudi

 

[technichen]

There isn't a charge light to be found. Hmmm....the new hunt begins

 

[JohnnyC]

Rudy great writeup on the external VR... have you found any replacements for the VR in solid state?

I had an electrical issue in 1995 and was beating my head for a week... replaced 2 new VR's and the alternator... and still no good ... i took it to an electrical guru back home... he rewired and replaced the oem VR with a solid state from an Ford

I wasnt too happy with that ... but... i paid him and went on my merry way.

18 years later it is still working flawlessly

was wondering if you had thoughts to do a writeup on replacement sold states

 

[MoCoNative]

I had a bouncing, jumpy, erratic ammeter in my 73, I did the same as JohnnyC above after changing the alt once and VR twice. They put a generic Transpo Ford style solid state VR on my cruiser at an electric shop. Kind of did a hack job. I later put a factory VR pigtail on the flat plug of the VR to plug it in better than the bare spades they left.

Transpo used to offer solid state replacement VR's for most cruisers, they were plug and play. I think Pablo had the part number in a thread at one point.

All I know is the ammeter has worked perfectly ever since, much better resolution if you will, and 10 years later, not a single issue with the generic Ford style VR.

As for the factory VR, I got one new from Toyota, well it was Toyota reconditioned. I think it had sat on the shelf so long the contact points had oxidized, I even opened them up and cleaned the points, but I think the damage was done, none of the OE VR's I tried produced a smooth and consistent charge state like the solid state has. When I was having troubles, my ammeter was going from charge to discharge while driving down the highway, lights and heater blower would dim.