Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works (1 Viewer)

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Ri-olà Rodolfo,
I have had this little idea: may be that the over voltage is caused from the wire from the battery which has a bad contact on the connector and sometimes it transmit a non correct voltage (very low) and so the regulator pump over normal?
In other words has an utility check also the battery wire (the B terminal)?
If this may be a cause I have found that the terminal block on the positive on the high battery (the one on wich I can mesure the 24v) is in not good condition: material corroded an internal part in bad condition. SO I have though that this may send to the VR bad information about the voltage of the battery and so VR read low voltage and charge....more than really necessary.
May be?
Thanks!
Paolo "pippi"
 
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Hi, Rudy!
Today I spent my time in the garage and I have had a surprise.
Last year I took my Toy to an electrician to check my system charge cause problems low charge and others...
Well he changed alternatore and VR; after one year I nave had Hugh chage problem and he changed the VR.
All OK till last week when I nave a peak at 32V for a couple of minutes and till now all OK.
This story to undetstand my surprise when I was cheking and I found that the VR connector has 5 pin (male) while the female connector has 6 connectors (female). I'll try to installat a new original VR and it overcharge.
In the 5VR plug i have found that there isn't the B terminal....but it works instead of the original that overcharge at the growing up of the engine rev. Well, now i have two thinks to understand: what has caused the peak of 32 volt with this 5 wire and how works this news configuration alternator and VR.
I have controlled the continuity from altetnator to VR and all seems OK.....
 
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Ciao Pippi,

In the 5VR plug i have found that there isn't the B terminal...

That's a strange one. If it's true what you say then the VR is always in the full charge position which at a certain moment can cause overcharging. In other words there is no regulating the voltage.
For explanation look at post #38 on page 2.

Can you post pictures from the back of the Alternator, the Voltage Regulator and the connectors? I like to see the markings on that VR. Brand or Manufacturer and model number.

Rudi
 
A lot of you don't like electric stuff and especially not complicated things like an external Voltage Regulator. So maybe it's time to explain how this black box with 3 or 6 wires works. It's really pretty simple. A VR (Voltage Regulator) regulates the charging process of the alternator. Our mechanical VR's have only 3 positions. Position 1. Full charge The battery voltage is less than 13.6V. Position 2. Trickle (or Half) charge. The Voltage is 13.6V. The battery is now fully charged and needs only to be topped off. Position 3. No Charge / the battery is full and more charging will damage (cook) the battery. The Voltage is 14.4V (or between 14.4 and 14.8 depends on the factory setting aka "set point") Here is the Toyota explanation from the FSM (Factory Service Manual) http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=ht...Voltage Regulator/vroperation_zpsd01689bb.jpghttp://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=ht...Voltage Regulator/vroperation_zpsd01689bb.jpg I've "translated" the FSM diagram in this one which is easier to read and understand. The left part of this diagram is the alternator, the right part shows the Voltage Regulator. No matter if the VR has 3 or 6 wires, there is always a E, IGN and F wire/terminal. The other 3 are N, L and B in case of a 6 wire VR. More about this later. E = Earth / Ground IGN = Voltage from the Ignition key (= battery voltage) aka "Sense". This voltage is used to detect how high the battery voltage is. F = Field. This voltage activates the alternator and controls the output voltage of the alternator. http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=ht...oco/Voltage Regulator/VR3wire_zps03912e72.jpghttp://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=ht...oco/Voltage Regulator/VR3wire_zps03912e72.jpg Look at the VR part of the diagram. The heart of the Regulator is a 3 way switch that is activated by magnetism. Most people call this a relay which is in a way correct. The switch is pulled closed in the top (1st) position by a spring. The Voltage from the battery (passing the ignition key) goes directly to the F terminal. Therefore the alternator is activated to charge with full power. Note: The resistor is bypassed / overruled / shortened out. When the voltage goes up, the coil of the switch is energized and builds up a magnetism that starts pulling the switch to the 2nd position. When the battery voltage reaches 13.6V the coil is enough energized to actually pull the switch to the 2nd (open) position. At this point the switch is open and the 10 &Omega; (ohm) resistor is now in series with the F terminal. The voltage to the F terminal and thus the alternator, is reduced to approx. 6 to 7V. The output of the alternator is now decreased and the battery will be Trickled charged. The battery voltage will continue climbing until the Voltage is 14.4V. At this point the coil is so much energized that it pulls the switch in the 3rd position. When the switch is in the 3rd position the F terminal is grounded so the charging process is stopped. Unfortunately (or on purpose by design, I haven't figured that one out yet) now the V ignition is also grounded via the resistor and this creates a lot of warmth and makes the VR feel pretty hot. Here is the same story but now in a graphic. http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/r...lator/VRchargingprogress_zps7f4dce79.jpg.html Here are 3 pics with the different positions. Full charge http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=ht.../Voltage Regulator/Fullcharge_zpsfe7c041e.jpghttp://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=ht.../Voltage Regulator/Fullcharge_zpsfe7c041e.jpg Trickle or Half charge http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=ht...ltage Regulator/Tricklecharge_zpsd0e998cb.jpghttp://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=ht...ltage Regulator/Tricklecharge_zpsd0e998cb.jpg No charge / Battery is Full http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=ht...co/Voltage Regulator/Nocharge_zpsd98e7ff2.jpghttp://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=ht...co/Voltage Regulator/Nocharge_zpsd98e7ff2.jpg I also made little movie so you can see it live! <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5uJhIg4M3A">YouTube Link</a> Rudi

Wow, very cool read Rudi, thanks!
 
Hi Rudi,
the VR is a NEW ERA AVR 573 24V, and actually works....it has the same position of the pin than the original except that there isn't the B pin , in the original placed in the corner under the F.
I suppose there is something in the alternator to aviod that this VR don't overcharge and last time does not work for few minutes.
As I can I'll post information and photo of altermator.
Thanks for your very important and useful help and knowledge!!
 
So, this is what you need
connector.JPG

And this is what you have
AVR573-24V.jpg

Hmmmmm, that's a nice puzzle. Interesting to see what alternator you have there.

Rudi
AVR573-24V.jpg
connector.JPG
 
Hi Rudi,
tomorrow I'll go to the electrician to understand what he has done and what kind of alternator he has use on my toy.....
At same time I'll have ordered a new regulator " 5 pin" from him so now I have two new spare parts 5 and 6 pin.
But the problem is not solved cause I want know how actually works my Charging system.
I'll inform you about this strange puzzle (alternator, VR, wires...)
I understand the italian fantasy to solve problem but...there is always a but...not under my bonnet :).
Saluti!
Pippi
 
Hi Rudy,
I have done about 600 Km and, till now, ok.
This is the photo of the alternator. The electrician confirm to me that this alt need the VR 5 pin.
Now I have a new spare VR same model and....what else?
Another important thing, I have misured a difference between the indication on the internal voltage gauge and the measure with multimeter. The dash gauge measure more than multimeter. Sometime also the fuel gauge go to zero and after return on the right position...atcually iafter a long run on highway I have measured 28,4 with multimeter (the first hour of driving is less bit, 27,6/) ever with ligh on.
altern3.jpg
 
Pippi,

Let's go one step back.... What model and year is your Cruiser? You never told us.
Do you have the (Italian) VR engine in it?
Is that the original alternator?
I've not seen this alternator before (which doesn't mean anything).
Also I don't know the internals of that 5 wire VR so maybe that combination works.

Don't worry about the difference between the two Volt meters, unless the difference between the two is more then 1 Volt. Of course you have to measure the voltage at the same point to do the comparison.

28.4V means that your battery is full. Depending on the set point (factory setting) of the VR that value can also be 28.8V.
As long as the Voltage is not higher then 28.8V everything is fine.

Rudi
 
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Hi Rudy,
is a HJ61 GX 1988 engine 12ht diesel 24Volt.
If you are interested to, and if may be useful to add information to this very interesting thread, I can post some photo of the 5 wire VR New Era.
Thanks' for all your information!!!
 
Yes please post some pictures (with the cap of) from all sides plus the bottom so I can see the wiring.

Rudi
 
Hi Rudy,
this is the VR 5 wire I have (this is my spare part...).
The alternator is not the original is e new one aftermarket 50 A instead of 40A.
May be you are able to solve the puzzle ;)
Paolo "pippi"
20131217_084841.jpg
20131217_085145.jpg
20131217_085211.jpg
 
Pippi,

I give up. You have an aftermarket 50Amp alternator with an New Era AVR573 external 5 wire VR. Nothing of this relates to your truck and here is why:
The HJ61 was available in a regular model and a Cold Spec. model.
The regular model has a 24V 30Amp alternator with a 6 wire external VR.
The cold spec. model has a 24V 40Amp alternator with an internal VR.
Yours is an aftermarket 50Amp with an 5 wire external VR.
The only thing I can say is that the wire colors on the alt match with wire colors from the wiring diagram. Blue (N), Green (F) and Black (E) and the fat white one that is the B+ to the battery.
The only reference I found on the AVR573 is that it is a replacement for the Toyota Dyna truck and not related to any model 24V Land Cruiser.
Besides this I don't have a clue why and how the 5 wire VR works without the B terminal. Maybe, one day I'll find the solution.
For now......

Time for a :beer: or :beer::beer:

Rudi

FYI: your truck full model name is; HJ61LG-MNXW.
The cold spec model name is: HJ61LG-MNCXW
 
Hi Rudi,
I give you an incorrect information, in origin I have an external regulator Toyota and the alternator was a 30 Amp.
This don't change the facts aboout what the hell I have under the bonnet but your information regarding wires is important in case of....problems.
Well, tomorrow I'll leave for a long trip at the return ( i hope to return with my toy) I'll inform you about what has appened (positive or negative).
At now good idea a good fresh beer :beer:
Pippi
 
Voltage Regulator

Rudi it looks like I can figure out what to do from your great posts and pictures. But, there is always a "but", right? I am installing a complete new American Autowire Hwy 15 harness, which of course makes no mention of an external regulator. Also, the regulator I have is a six wire which doesn't match the FSM for my 1970 Non-USA Land Cruiser. The "T" shaped plug for the alternator isn't much help either since the color coding of the two wires is black and black. So I found a diagram associated with a Nippondenso voltage regulator and it appears from pictures you have shown that color coding is per a standard? Two of the attachments are not labeled identically so I will "assume" that the locations are the same with slightly different names? On the bottom side of my VR the light may have washed out the colors but as you look at the picture they are;
Top Left = White Black
Top Right = White Blue
Lwr Left = White Red
Mid-Right = Yellow
Lwr Right = White
Lwr Middle = White Green

I'm asking as I don't want to fry anything. Thanks for all your help and wishing you a Happy and Prosperous New Year.
DSCN1968.jpg
DSCN1972.jpg
VR1.jpg
VR2.jpg
 
Hi Lenny,

I think you have a typo in your posting but it looks that you have a VR with the correct wire colors.
connector_wire colors.JPG

About the alternator..... can you post a pic where the connector is located AND the brand and model number?
The reason is that there are two different models using the same 3 prong connector and we have to figure out what type of alternator you have there.

Rudi
connector_wire colors.JPG
 
Well I re-read my post and now you have me curious about my typo.

First thing in the morning I will take a picture of the alternator and see if I can get a model/part number off of it as well. Thank you.
 

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