Vman's majestic wheelin' and build thread™

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I ran it 4 years ago, did you find it boring? I thought it was a splendid trail through some beautiful country...
Yeah. Not my thing. No real challenges
 
I'd put off replacing my front diff bushings for too long. There was an obvious, but not significant, thunk/clunk up front when going over potholes. I was fairly confident thunk was not CV's, hub flanges, ball joints etc so all signs point to diff bushings. Oh and a 1/2" of play in the rubber made it pretty obvious...


I read through the replacement threads and info, it seemed like getting the diff cover bushing out was the biggest hassle. I started by replacing the other two bushings/arms...easy
db2.jpg

db3.jpg


The hole in one of the arm bushings was, uh, obvious



db1.jpg


Then I began to drill/burn/cut the diff cover bushing out to expose the metal sleeve. After that it was good old chisel and hammer work. A few thousand hammer taps later and I worked the old bushing out...

db5.jpg
 
...it took about half an hour but the sleeve eventually popped out.
db6.jpg


Then it was pretty straightforward pressing in the new bushing, the ball joint press tool was invaluable...

db7.jpg


Here it is all snugged up. Overall the thunk/clunk is largely gone. Everything feels firmer/tighter in the front, I don't wince going over potholes anymore...

db8.jpg
 
looks like a set of RW's followed me home, those 35's are a little scary looking. I threw one on the front because why not? Left hand turns would be a little difficult. There really wasn't too much rubbing, a little on the inside fender, but they did hit the front of the Slee slider. I'd have to trim/grind down the slider to allow a full left hand turn...hmm? Otherwise I'm looking at getting a set of 285/75 Cooper STs...
20200229_105411.jpg


20200229_105402.jpg
20200229_122722.jpg
 
Well 3 months after finding the RW's I'm stoked to get some rubber on them. I kind of chickened out and went with a tire that I've had numerous times before. I thought I wanted to be adventurous and try a Toyo or maybe even a Falken Wildpeak, but I ended up going with old tried and true BFG Ko2 in the 285/75 size. I'm stoked with the fit and sit of everything...
20200516_191120.jpg



20200516_190911.jpg


20200516_191312.jpg
 
The 285/75/17 is on the left, the previous BFG Ko2 275/70/18 on the right. BFG calls a 285/75 a 34" , but that seems generous. Both old and new tires weigh in at 85 lbs. I had to do a pinch weld trim also...
20200514_193505.jpg


20200516_191326.jpg
 
The 285/75/17 is on the left, the previous BFG Ko2 275/70/18 on the right. BFG calls a 285/75 a 34" , but that seems generous.
FWIW, Federal Regulations state very specifically how the tire diameter is to be measured.

LT tires are inflated to maximum pressure (according load rating. Yours would be 80 psi) for a period of 24 hrs and at some specified ambient temperature. Then the maximum circumference is measured (center of tread) and that figure is divided by Pi to derive the diameter. I can certainly see how some tires will "bow" out more than others and influence the "diameter."
 
Got around to doing my LBJ's with my little helpers. Both lbj's were squeaking and I had the the tell tale 'thunk' and 'chunk' going over bumps and potholes. With new ball joints in, I've almost completely eliminated my squeaks and clunks.
20200528_152054.jpg


wrenching is ez when you fit in the wheel well...

20200528_152043.jpg


2 year old with a drill gun!

20200530_102659.jpg

20200530_102706.jpg


A few take-away's:
1) There's no need to remove the abs sensor in the knuckle. Just detach the whole sensor/unbolt it, but leave the actual sensor in the knuckle. I tried to remove the DS sensor and ruined it. I got a Chinese sensor for $30 (OEM is like $300) and it seems to be working.
2) There's no need to remove the steering arm from the knuckle. Just keep them connected.
3) A pitman arm puller was super helpful
4) Sourcing a 2 and 1/8" sleeve to press the ball joint in is useful to do before you begin. I used the exhaust pipe tip from @RuskiE39 and that totally helped out. Thanks Ruski.
5) Obviously it's a great time to check your bearings and repack

Other than that all went well...
 
Got around to doing my LBJ's with my little helpers. Both lbj's were squeaking and I had the the tell tale 'thunk' and 'chunk' going over bumps and potholes. With new ball joints in, I've almost completely eliminated my squeaks and clunks.
View attachment 2348132

wrenching is ez when you fit in the wheel well...

View attachment 2348133

2 year old with a drill gun!

View attachment 2348134
View attachment 2348135

A few take-away's:
1) There's no need to remove the abs sensor in the knuckle. Just detach the whole sensor/unbolt it, but leave the actual sensor in the knuckle. I tried to remove the DS sensor and ruined it. I got a Chinese sensor for $30 (OEM is like $300) and it seems to be working.
2) There's no need to remove the steering arm from the knuckle. Just keep them connected.
3) A pitman arm puller was super helpful
4) Sourcing a 2 and 1/8" sleeve to press the ball joint in is useful to do before you begin. I used the exhaust pipe tip from @RuskiE39 and that totally helped out. Thanks Ruski.
5) Obviously it's a great time to check your bearings and repack

Other than that all went well...

Glad to hear that's working out for other members! :)
 
we've been on several camping trips this summer and with 3 kids in tow, space is at a premium. Our 4 yr. old sits in the 3rd row and our fridge is right next to him. But the Dometic didn't fit well between the seat and the wheel well, so I made a tray for the fridge. The tray raises the fridge above the wheel well and turns in 90* to how it was oriented previously. Also because the fridge is elevated, there is room underneath for items such as my tools I bring on road trips...

the tray weighs about 15 lbs.
20200719_121347.jpg


it's secured to the vehicle with 5 turnbuckles and is rock solid. Fridge will secure to tray.
20200719_151415.jpg


tray painted to match interior
20200720_114335.jpg


20200720_123202.jpg


tools are accesible still but secured by the tray...
20200720_123216.jpg
 
I'd put off replacing my front diff bushings for too long. There was an obvious, but not significant, thunk/clunk up front when going over potholes. I was fairly confident thunk was not CV's, hub flanges, ball joints etc so all signs point to diff bushings. Oh and a 1/2" of play in the rubber made it pretty obvious...


I read through the replacement threads and info, it seemed like getting the diff cover bushing out was the biggest hassle. I started by replacing the other two bushings/arms...easy
View attachment 2216295
View attachment 2216296

The hole in one of the arm bushings was, uh, obvious



View attachment 2216302

Then I began to drill/burn/cut the diff cover bushing out to expose the metal sleeve. After that it was good old chisel and hammer work. A few thousand hammer taps later and I worked the old bushing out...

View attachment 2216305

are these arms a straightforward replacement? comes with bushings installed? unbolt 3 bolts and install? and there are 2 of these obviously
front center diff bushing no problems getting the new one back in? Are there 3 parts for this bushing? I think that's what I'm seeing in the parts diagram. thanks!
 
are these arms a straightforward replacement? comes with bushings installed? unbolt 3 bolts and install? and there are 2 of these obviously
front center diff bushing no problems getting the new one back in? Are there 3 parts for this bushing? I think that's what I'm seeing in the parts diagram. thanks!
The two arms are straightforward and come with the bushings if you buy the arm. You can just replace the bushings in the arm but I just bought the whole arm not to mess with pressing in bushings.

The third bushing does require to remove/chisel/displace the old bushing somehow, lots of techniques suggested on Mud to do that, I just used a hammer and chisel, and for the third bushing you do need to press it it with a big clamp...
 
I took my 5 and 3 year old out to the Death Valley area recently. It was our first "overland" trip together, IE not camping in a campground. We camped in the Panamint Valley, checked out some minds, braved temps in the upper 20's at night, and had a wonderful time...
m1.png

We left home in the Bay Area around 3am, so the kids woke up in the middle of bum-$&@# nowhere along the 5...

m2.jpg

Our first night was out in the Trona Pinnacles area..
m3.png

Met up with my dad in his built GX 460, along with my sister in an 80 series and brother in a Montero...

m4.jpg


Camped here for 2 nights near Lookout City in the Argus Range, west side of Panamint Valley...

m5.jpg

Cold nights...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom