ARCHIVE Victory4x4 LC200 build, prototyping and product development! (1 Viewer)

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Looks like 3 legs bolted to the frame, at least for the LC. See their video here:

The rear leg would probably interfere with any RCLA mount skid though?
 
I’m in Chicago area and would be interested in a front bumper for 2009 LX570. Could you PM me price and lead time please? I’m willing to pickup.
 
teejnut said:
Looks like 3 legs bolted to the frame, at least for the LC. See their video here:

The rear leg would probably interfere with any RCLA mount skid though?
Click to expand...

Straight forward installation. I don't see any AHC system protection though for the LX
 
Hey guys, LOVE your products! I have a question about interference with the ARB cargo barrier.

My 200 currently has the Victory 4x4 rear window molly panels. I want to add a cargo barrier and a shelf.
My personal preference is to run the Victory 4x4 shelf and ARB cargo barrier. Will I run into clearance issues?
If I can't run the Victory 4x4 shelf, will the ARB shelf interfere with the Victory 4x4 rear window molly panels?

THANKS!
 
Finally have the new 200 bumpers rolling through production! This is our 4th one to come up this week. 3-4 fronts have come up as well!

2187A02A-3F41-4EE7-9758-2B39563ACFE7.jpeg
 
@victory4X4 Can you guys make a rear ladder for the 200-series? I like the one you make for 4Runner with the possibility to mount a fuel can, or other items on the ladder itself.

Also, I’d rather not put a Gobi ladder on my truck with a Victory4x4 roof rack. Mixing styles and brands… meh.
 
NYC570 said:
What's the weight of the rear bumper? Are you guys coming out with an aluminum version?
Click to expand...
@brimy311 I’m also wondering. Any issues with the rear bumper and rear cross traffic sensor?

Also how well do the skid set protect cats and diff?

Website suggestion, have your web guy or gal or they/them change the weight on the product page based on material and options selected.… or just list weights in the specs below. Front bumper for example…

steel front w hoop
steel front w out hoop
aluminum front w hoop
aluminum front w out hoop

etc..
 
Last edited:
joltman said:
I just got around to installing the molle panel. Always other projects getting in the way of the fun stuff. I ran into a couple issues that I decided to email Victory about. I just sent the email, and I'm sure they'll respond. However, I wanted to let you all know about the issues so that you would all maybe learn from my first mistake, and near critical second mistake. I think that these issues should be addressed by Victory. I've got no reason right now to think they won't be. If I'm wrong, then I'd like to know it so I can learn from my mistakes.

1. I followed the video instructions on removing all the interior tril panels. Quite helpful! However, I got to the step where I was to remove the clips that were for holding up the top "garnish panel". I cut off the front and rear clips, then I twisted the center clip to release the panel. Cool. The video then skips past a very infuriating step. How do you release the clips from their bracket? I had to cut out one of them, which was not easy. Then when it came out, I found out that it was a simple matter of compressing the clip to release. Even the Factory Service Manual doesn't show that. It would have been very nice to have at least a picture of what the clip looks like so I would have known how to compress the clip to release it. With that knowledge, the front clip came out no issue. From the looks of the video, it appears the installer (Kevin?) had a heck of a time removing that clip as well. The metal bracket the clip was in had most of its paint removed in the attempt to get the clip off.

2. I kept going with the install up until the point where the installer recommended putting all panels back on before threading the screws for the mounting brackets. I decided to test threading first. I'm glad I did. The bolts included with the kit were too long! I couldn't snug up the bolts without damaging the body of the vehicle. I was forced to cut the bolts down. No where in the instructions does it mention this fact. If I did snug up the bolts without trimming them, they would have hit the outer body panel and probably cracked the panel and paint. Correct length bolts should have been supplied and a warning issued before the install. This is really not OK the way it is.

The final issue I encountered is my own fault. I messed up the nutsert install on the rear hole. I used a socket wrench to cinch up the nut, and the included M6 bolt (used as the install tool) released from the nutsert without issue. However, now I can't screw in the supplied M6 screw for the bracket. It gets caught and eventually will not move at all. I have never installed nutserts before yesterday. How do I remove them? I'm imagining with a drill bit, but what size? I think these are M6 nutserts (since the bolt is an M6). Should I spend the money to get a proper nutsert installation tool?
Click to expand...
Just finished installing a set of the molle panels, so I thought I'd add a few comments, this post was very useful. My sets were purchased last August 2021 but I'm now just finding the time to install them. My install was much more complicated as I had to completely remove my ARB rear drawers, which is why I procrastinated. Removing the plastics isn't as hard as it might look, just watch the video and be patient, I've already had mine off a few times.

I agree that the video was extremely helpful, but was disappointed that they didn't show how to get those clips off above the top panel. It's actually pretty easy, I found if you reach up above the metal ear with a pair of bent nose pliers, you can squeeze the catches on the clip, then they will wiggle out. Once you get one out, you'll get it. I tried to take a photo but with black plastic it just won't come out clearly.

I also found the supplied cap screws (55mm long) too long for the upper mounts. Maybe this has been remedied in later kits. I had to cut off about 1/2" to make them work without hitting the sheet metal above. Very quick with a cutoff tool and a file, but kinda a nuisance that I had to do that. I suggest you install the upper cap screws and brackets BEFORE you put any of the other plastics back on, as you can peek around the end of the panel to see how the screws are engaging the speed nuts, goes much easier. Just leave them very loose for now.

I put 1/4" SS flat washers under all the cap screws. It just seemed like they needed them.

A headlamp is very helpful when working on the upper panel inside the truck.

I did not use the nutsert install setup provided, as I have a very nice nutsert installation tool.

Step drill bit is definitely the way to go to drill the 1/2" holes in the plastics.

PXL_20220404_144926082.jpg
 
AZAA said:
Yes 35x12.5x17. 3” suspension lift, w/adjustable upper control arms, body mount chop and fender liner trimming.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I have same wheels and thinking of 35s and looks like definitely some works.

Bumper looks good!
 
I got my front bumper in a couple of weeks ago but it has been collecting dust in the garage. Why? the instructions don't include how to install on a pre face lift (2011 for me) LC!

The taping points in the videos show to measure from the inside of the headlights, but only for facelifted headlights and the GX.

@brimy311 please add the measurements for pre facelift to the video ASAP! I have tried to email support about this and gotten no response.


==================

ALSO worth noting that the front skid plate is NOT compatible with the existing transfer case protection. I ended up having to order their transfer case skid once I realized this. It's not addressed in the instruction video and now I'm feeling a bit naked.
 
It's now been another 2 weeks and the guys at Victory 4x4 have still been unable to produce installation instructions for a 2008-2012 front bumper. They did add to the video to include new instructions for the 2012-2015 bumper.

I'm now 6 months out from the original purchase. I feel as though Victory 4x4 should have done this research first before even manufacturing these for the Land Cruiser. My Saga of watching these be developed + trying to get one on my truck is now up to almost a year.

The best Victory 4x4 has been able to offer was a refund. I'm super disappointed with the whole process.
 
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