v8 fender well headers (1 Viewer)

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Aug 28, 2007
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Hello, I'm new to this cool forum!

I have a 40 with a 355 chevy and I would like to put fender well headers but I want to make sure what I have in the engine bay will work with the headers.

Does anyone have or be willing to tske pics of fender well headers in an FJ40?
I have a Saginaw steering conversion with an I Did It steering column but everything else can easliy be moved.

I want to that everyone in advance.

Guy

1974 FJ40
full restoration with stock 4speed
355 chevy
'79 disck front axle
1 ton full floater rear wth disc brakes
4" lift
 
Welcome. Search is your friend. I (and most others) will suggest that instead of fenderwell headers, you use block hugger headers or find some rams horn manifolds.
 
I used to run them and was not a huge fan, but...

The big issue is obviously fitment (not just the steering). If you don't want to hack the inside of your fenders then engine position is a big concern as well. Do you have access to a set that you could fit before buying? I'll try to dig up a few pics of my old setup.
 
I have block hugger headers. Frankly, for the sake of simplicity and ruggedness, I'd rather have some low restriction block hugging cast iron exhaust manifolds. And definitely not wheel well headers.
 
I have a 40 with a 355 chevy and I would like to put fender well headers

I just threw up in my mouth a little.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=145334&highlight=cast+headers

QP1000.jpg
 
I'd go with a good set of ramhorn manifolds, more reliable and you wouldn't gain much power from the fenderwell headers anyway.

Although... i've always been kinda curious what manufacturer makes a set of these that'll fit on a 40.

Kevin
 
All that's been said plus you have to run your exhaust outside the frame rails which is a very vulnerable spot.
AND..............dgangle will come over and kick your ass if you use them.;)


Ed
 
I run fendeerwell headers with no problem and have no problem with looking like the '80s. What I did that was pretty trick (I think) is to cut out horseshoe style holes in the body mounts (arms that extend from frame) just behind the fenders to accept the exhaust pipe. This way you can't see any of the exhaust until it pops out just before the rear tire.

Bad A$$.
 
I run fendeerwell headers with no problem and have no problem with looking like the '80s. What I did that was pretty trick (I think) is to cut out horseshoe style holes in the body mounts (arms that extend from frame) just behind the fenders to accept the exhaust pipe. This way you can't see any of the exhaust until it pops out just before the rear tire.

Bad A$$.

Gotta be a joke, right? I love the '80's too man.

Let's see....you weaken the support (for the tub and running board) and probably have melted your rubber mat to the tub and your feet are well-done from the mufflers being so close to the underside of the tub....awesome. I have mine routed there too but not as up close as you describe. I have wrapped the pipes from the exit of the ramshorns to the muffler with heatwrap and fab'd heat shields that go between the muffler/tub and the floor still gets hot as a sumbitch. I bet every wire under your hood is extra well-done as well. Do you like tighting header bolts everyday, kinda like a pre-flight ritual?

No attack, I just don't see how anyone could view the multitude of problems those things cause as worth the trade-off of, well, I don't what benefit they offer. Then, if things could get worse, when you do see the light you will have hacked front tub supports, hacked inner fender and holes where the pipes used to come out. Pass.
 
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About headers..

Here are the mines, sounds good, and improves my exhaust, im happy with thems :cool:........'till i've read the posts......i'll keep the mines ,thanks and have a nice day guys:beer:
hdr.JPG
head.JPG
hed.JPG
 
OK, OK, OK. I'll stick with block huggers. I'll need to re-route the piping so the floor doesn't get too hot.
Thanks for help and especially the welcome solute:beer:

Guy

oh. the rear dump shorties turned around sounds good too.
 
Gotta be a joke, right? I love the '80's too man.

Let's see....you weaken the support (for the tub and running board) and probably have melted your rubber mat to the tub and your feet are well-done from the mufflers being so close to the underside of the tub....awesome. I have mine routed there too but not as up close as you describe. I have wrapped the pipes from the exit of the ramshorns to the muffler with heatwrap and fab'd heat shields that go between the muffler/tub and the floor still gets hot as a sumbitch. I bet every wire under your hood is extra well-done as well. Do you like tighting header bolts everyday, kinda like a pre-flight ritual?

No attack, I just don't see how anyone could view the multitude of problems those things cause as worth the trade-off of, well, I don't what benefit they offer. Then, if things could get worse, when you do see the light you will have hacked front tub supports, hacked inner fender and holes where the pipes used to come out. Pass.

To CLear things up a bit. I have re-enforced the bottom of the mounts with 1/4 steal because I was afraid of just that. My headers are ceramic coated and have no heat issues. I bought copper gaskets from the local speed shop and have not had to retorque them since the first 250 miles or so. There is also a summit racing heat plate/muffler guard over each Hushpower II muffler thus keeping heat to the floor board to a minimum.

I am running a 700r4/Orion HD. It was getting pretty crowded between the frame rails with the fuel pump, tranny cooler + fan, Battery isolater and what have you. OUtsied the fender was the only way to go for me.

To each there own.
 

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