Builds Utah... the "new blue" - the unforeseen build

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Got the engine All put back together

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In the in the 4500 sealed up, including a new input seal.
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Waiting on the box from advanced adapters to finish everything up.
 
While I'm waiting worked on the sliders adding more reinforcements, as I want to mount the runningboards on the sliders instead of the body.
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Also started working on the new rear bumper. Plan is to have three-quarter inch solid steel attached to the frame going through a 2 x 4" quarter inch square tube, thus create the mounting point
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I tried to use a buddies plasma cutter, but it was not man enough to cut through the three-quarter inch steel, even with the quarter-inch relief cuts from cut off wheels. In the end there was a lot of grinding going on.
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A few more details and numbers.

The head is a casting 14022601 stamped 13596-2

spark plugs AP24

transmission nv4500 had a tag on it. 52108225 df 4500-d 10 68 93

clutch pressure plate LUK LC5473 mx 4G07 12:39

Clutch disc. LUK LC 3348 4130B MX

WARNING>>>> these LUK numbers do not match anything I can find. I emailed LUK to figure out what model numbers these go by.
 
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Here is the reason for the upgrade to the rear swing out bumper.
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It was a 2 x 4 1/8 inch steel rear bumper with literally a bolt Face welded to the top, used with a tight tube over it as the pivot point. I really don't know how this survived Kokapelli trail.
 
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Wow you have been busy this weekend. Good idea to document #'s for future reference!
 
Input seal on the GM in the 4500 after 1997 is a National 21901.

I had to make a special seal installation tool as I did not take out the input shaft,

FYI there's not one that I know that's available in Kansas City, as It took three times before I got one in without destroying it.
 
3/4" plate is heavy duty! Looks ace!
 
Goodies came from advanced adapters.
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Take a look at the comparison of the motor mounts

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Crap Kelly I wish I lived closer so I could learn more. Great progress.
 
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Here are the input seals for the transmission
 
New bearing installed into the transfer case


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Here is the reason for the upgrade to the rear swing out bumper. View attachment 1189616

It was a 2 x 4 1/8 inch steel rear bumper with literally a bolt Face welded to the top, used with a tight tube over it as the pivot point. I really don't know how to survive Kokapelli trail.

the bolt was welded 3 inches into the bumper not to the top...temporary fix til i could find the pin that was in it..it wasnt going anywhere unless you put a ton of weight onto it. i was planning on building a new bumper before i decided to sell it. also youre gonna want to put ad a leafs in the rear springs if you are really using 3/4 in steel on the bumper.
 
With the help of steve at advanced adapters, we think we found the root of the cause of the bearings shelling out. The advanced adapter's adapter between the tranny and the transfer has to be aligned perfectly. This is done by two sleeves or hollow dowels that are on the adapter. I am missing one and the other is well worn. This would allow the tranny to be not in alignment, thus the spud shaft would be low or high, thus put lateral force on bearing.
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Got a set coming from aa, then we can start install.
 
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.....also youre gonna want to put ad a leafs in the rear springs if you are really using 3/4 in steel on the bumper.

Spencer, you have a point there. The 3/4 plate is just the outriggers. However the new bumper is 1/4 thick rectangle tube and is pretty heavy as well. In the pic below, the 2x4 represents the rectangle tube.

I am looking for some pre 68 land cruiser tail lights as they should fit in the bumper. Post 68 they were a little more than 4" wide. Pre, they were about 3 1/2 wide. On national back order now. Ordered, so we will see.
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I can't figure out how to add pictures to old posts on the app.

Here are pics of the old frame where the crack and old weld were.

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With the help of Rob, made more progress tonight. Got the tranny made with the adapter plate made it with the transmission then spent the next two hours trying to get the clutch pilot hole bushing out. Finally tapped it with a three-quarter 10 tap and pressed it out with the bolt. I'm going to borrow the tool to install The new bushing tomorrow and with a little luck might have the motor mounts welded in tomorrow night.
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What an exciting evening, take a look at the progress
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