bjowett
Supporting Vendor
We could probably source some longer OE belts from a Mitsuboshi distibutor...
Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Photoman
- Start date
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When the experienced, professional alternator guy changed my pulley over, he used an impact, so I assumed that was okay.
As far as moving that bushing like Bill was talking about, I couldn't find a good way to 'tap' it forward. I took a socket large enough to fit over the bushing from the front, stuck a bolt through it from the front, and put a washer and nut on from the back side of the bushing and tightened the bolt head until the nut pulled the bushing flush to the back side of the mount.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Ok so I've read a few posts about the new wiring. Is there a picture that can go along with it or even a detail list of what needs to be changed as far as wire size? I still don't feel very confident in which of the wiring I need/should change.
NLXTACY,
Which wiring are you trying to figure out? The wiring for the rear plug or the main charge wiring?
The pictures floating around somewhere in this thread were a super big help to me (don't forget you're looking at the REAR of the new plug in the photo). Once I figured out how to take the old plug apart and get the wires out, they snapped right into the new plug no problemo.
As for the charge wire, I did things a little differently. I took the old charge wire and wrapped it up in the stock harness and tied and tapped it all up, so it won't rub or make contact with anything. The old wire will stay hot, since it's still connected to the battery. This leaves the stock battery wiring all stock, with the exception that the stock charge wire is no longer hooked up to the alternator.
I then ran a seperate 4 gauge battery cable from the alternator directly to the battery where it's fused at the battery. I just bought a standard 4 gauge battery cable then soldered on the ends that I wanted, wrapped it up in protective wiring covering and taped it all up. Works great so far.
I just fired up the rig tonight and thankfully no leaks and all sounds and runs great. The new alternator seems to run awesome. Nice and quiet. Voltage is about 13.5-13.8 at idle with headlights and heater on full. I haven't seen it go much above 14 volts, which I don't know if that's a problem since the stock alternator liked to run around 14-14.8 on the highway. But I figure at twice the output, this alternator may run at a slightly lower voltage than others.
In any case, this mod is awesome and went together very well.
Which wiring are you trying to figure out? The wiring for the rear plug or the main charge wiring?
The pictures floating around somewhere in this thread were a super big help to me (don't forget you're looking at the REAR of the new plug in the photo). Once I figured out how to take the old plug apart and get the wires out, they snapped right into the new plug no problemo.
As for the charge wire, I did things a little differently. I took the old charge wire and wrapped it up in the stock harness and tied and tapped it all up, so it won't rub or make contact with anything. The old wire will stay hot, since it's still connected to the battery. This leaves the stock battery wiring all stock, with the exception that the stock charge wire is no longer hooked up to the alternator.
I then ran a seperate 4 gauge battery cable from the alternator directly to the battery where it's fused at the battery. I just bought a standard 4 gauge battery cable then soldered on the ends that I wanted, wrapped it up in protective wiring covering and taped it all up. Works great so far.
I just fired up the rig tonight and thankfully no leaks and all sounds and runs great. The new alternator seems to run awesome. Nice and quiet. Voltage is about 13.5-13.8 at idle with headlights and heater on full. I haven't seen it go much above 14 volts, which I don't know if that's a problem since the stock alternator liked to run around 14-14.8 on the highway. But I figure at twice the output, this alternator may run at a slightly lower voltage than others.
In any case, this mod is awesome and went together very well.
- Thread starter
- #45
NLXTACY
To try to clarify the main wiring, a new 4 gauge or larger wire is run from the alternator “B” post through a fuse to the battery positive as many have done. The stock connector lug at the alternator “B” post has a large white wire in it which is being replaced, plus a smaller white wire that goes to the under hood fuse box and the in dash fuse box. The small white wire needs to be connected to the “B” terminal, either by cutting it and putting it in the same lug as the new 4 gauge wire (as Ivan80 did), or by leaving the stock “B” connector bolted on with the new 4 gauge wire (parallel as John did). If paralleling the big white wire is bothersome, it can just be disconnected from its fuse link in the little AM1 box by the battery.
Upgrading the battery ground or negative is a good idea to balance and maximize the new alternator output.
Fwiw, I took the wiring harness apart about 12 inches from the alternator “B” post. In the picture it can be seen that Toyota splits the small white wire here in to 3 wires. Two wires go to the under hood fuse box, and the other goes to the in dash fuse box. See picture.
Brian894X4 – I think you are back feeding the small white wire through the fusible link and big white wire? If I mislead you in some way I apologize. Congratulations on getting it all together and running.
Bill
.
To try to clarify the main wiring, a new 4 gauge or larger wire is run from the alternator “B” post through a fuse to the battery positive as many have done. The stock connector lug at the alternator “B” post has a large white wire in it which is being replaced, plus a smaller white wire that goes to the under hood fuse box and the in dash fuse box. The small white wire needs to be connected to the “B” terminal, either by cutting it and putting it in the same lug as the new 4 gauge wire (as Ivan80 did), or by leaving the stock “B” connector bolted on with the new 4 gauge wire (parallel as John did). If paralleling the big white wire is bothersome, it can just be disconnected from its fuse link in the little AM1 box by the battery.
Upgrading the battery ground or negative is a good idea to balance and maximize the new alternator output.
Fwiw, I took the wiring harness apart about 12 inches from the alternator “B” post. In the picture it can be seen that Toyota splits the small white wire here in to 3 wires. Two wires go to the under hood fuse box, and the other goes to the in dash fuse box. See picture.
Brian894X4 – I think you are back feeding the small white wire through the fusible link and big white wire? If I mislead you in some way I apologize. Congratulations on getting it all together and running.
Bill
.
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
Bill you are awesome. Just what I needed. I have the alternator ordered already. A 150A off an 05 Sequoia.
Looking forward to doing this bad boy up.
Looking forward to doing this bad boy up.
- Thread starter
- #47
Small update. I spent the last couple of weeks and made another batch of brackets so they are available. I left a few not powder coated so if someone wants one in another color (very limited) I can try to do that for an additional $10.00.
NLXTACY how is it going?
Bill
NLXTACY how is it going?
Bill
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Hey PHOTOMAN, thanks for asking. Well the first alternator that I got had a small hairline fracture on it but I couldn't break it off so I wasn't too worried. (must have been damaged in an accident) Well I got it installed and hadn't plugged in the new plug yet when I went to get a drink. As I am walking back to the truck I hear "POP". Er ok. Well as it turns out the mounting ear did actually snap off at that fracture point. I guess I should have known better.
That was last Saturday. So I took about the plug again to put back the old alternator and re-ordered a new (to me) UNDAMAGED 150A alternator. Hopefully I will get it in early this coming week. Looking forward to it.
Joey
That was last Saturday. So I took about the plug again to put back the old alternator and re-ordered a new (to me) UNDAMAGED 150A alternator. Hopefully I will get it in early this coming week. Looking forward to it.
Joey
- Thread starter
- #49
Wow, I guess in trying to find the bright side you will be an expert in swapping these things before it’s all over. Speaking of that, did you install the belts by tipping the alternator in like the instructions say? How did that go?
Bill
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Well it kinda sucked because of removing the battery and tray and getting in. I struggled a little bit with putting in the alternator until I did the tip in WITH the belts already on, went right on. In all seriousness, as long as someone follows your instructions to a "T" you should be fine. The bracket is freaking awesome btw, love the adjustment.
The first time doing it took me about 2 hours total mainly because I was just taking my time and studying the surroundings. You know, getting myself familiar. To do the whole thing over again when the new alt comes in, I think I can now do the whole process in under 45 mins, maybe even 30 mins.
The first time doing it took me about 2 hours total mainly because I was just taking my time and studying the surroundings. You know, getting myself familiar. To do the whole thing over again when the new alt comes in, I think I can now do the whole process in under 45 mins, maybe even 30 mins.
- Thread starter
- #51
Thanks for the reply and the kind words.
I think that is really good time for doing a swap and its good information for others doing it.
It is almost counter intuitive to install the alternator without the bracket first and to install it with the belts on, but it makes it much easier. Lol, I guess as a last resort, read the instructions.
That adjustment bolt can really put the pressure on the belts. It tightens easy but is really pulling the belts.
Let us know when you are making amps.
Bill
Bill, no mislead at all. I sort of did it the lazy way. The new 4 gauge wire has its own fuse now, but I left rest of the stock wiring, including the old alternator lead in place, just not hooked up to the alternator. I just didn't want to mess with the stock harness. I don't think this will be an issue, but any comments are welcome.
By the way, I'm glad you are building more brackets. This is an awesome mod. It's as close to getting 150 amps in an OEM set up as we're going to get. Awesome design for those of us who need ultimate reliability.
- Thread starter
- #53
Thanks!
The only thing I was commenting on was there may be another way to do the wiring without messing with the stock wiring too much and may give you a better result. This way would be to connect up the stock wire back on to the alternator "B" post with the new 4 gauge wire. Then up by the battery in the little plastic AM box, just unbolt the big white wire and leave it separated and maybe taped off. With this set up full power comes directly from the alternator "B" on the small white wire to power a couple of things in the underhood fuse box, and also gives full power to the under dash fuse panel from several of the split off white wires.
The way your set up is now hi power is coming up from the "B" post on the 4 gauge wire to the positive battery post. From there it has to travel through the small fuse link wire, through the big white wire, then up the little white wire etc. By passing through the small fuse link wire I am not sure you are getting full advantage of the alternator output as it relates to the under hood fuse box and inside fuse box circuits.
If there was a problem for some reason and you wanted the stock wiring back, all that would be required is to open the little AM1 plastic box and reconnect (bolt) the fuse link wire and the big white wire back together.
Just a thought and may not mean that much.
Bill
- Thread starter
- #54
Important notice to those that have gotten an adapter bracket from me.
I may have inadvertently shipped out one or more wrong adjustment arms with the upgrade brackets. These arms are maybe 1/16 inch different than the correct ones in one spot so it is hard to tell visually (see picture). I have tried in the last several days to privately contact all those in the time period that I feel may have been affected. All those in the first batch were correct as far as I can determine. It was the transition to the second batch when a problem may have occurred.
If it is the wrong arm, it may contact the alternator and prevent full belt adjustment. The only test for this is before installing the belts, set the alternator in the top stock mount with the bolt. Mount the new bracket loosely and put the bolt through the adjustment arm and in the bottom alternator mount. Swing the alternator out and see if it swings through the full adjustment arm slot. If it hits the arm is wrong. I would encourage everyone to do this when they do their install. If you are doing an install and find an adjustment arm that hits, grind it in the spot shown in the picture so the install can be finished. Notify me and I will send a replacement adjustment arm.
Note: Today I just decided to send new adjustment arms to all those whose addresses I could find all the way back to March 1st. The arms should arrive by next weekend or sooner. If you purchased a bracket between March 1st and the present and do not get a replacement arm, notify me and I will send one out. I will also ship a new replacement arm to any one that bought a bracket from me previous to March 1st if you want one at no cost if you provide me with an address. I include a postage paid envelope to send the old one back to see if in fact I did send out a bad one. I have individually tested each of the recent adjustment arms on my cruiser template and they are stamped on the back with a “P” so any recent bracket purchases will have one of these. I still would encourage taking 5 minutes and doing the test above in case there are differences from the test alternator I use. I humbly apologize to all for any inconvenience this may cause.
Bill
I may have inadvertently shipped out one or more wrong adjustment arms with the upgrade brackets. These arms are maybe 1/16 inch different than the correct ones in one spot so it is hard to tell visually (see picture). I have tried in the last several days to privately contact all those in the time period that I feel may have been affected. All those in the first batch were correct as far as I can determine. It was the transition to the second batch when a problem may have occurred.
If it is the wrong arm, it may contact the alternator and prevent full belt adjustment. The only test for this is before installing the belts, set the alternator in the top stock mount with the bolt. Mount the new bracket loosely and put the bolt through the adjustment arm and in the bottom alternator mount. Swing the alternator out and see if it swings through the full adjustment arm slot. If it hits the arm is wrong. I would encourage everyone to do this when they do their install. If you are doing an install and find an adjustment arm that hits, grind it in the spot shown in the picture so the install can be finished. Notify me and I will send a replacement adjustment arm.
Note: Today I just decided to send new adjustment arms to all those whose addresses I could find all the way back to March 1st. The arms should arrive by next weekend or sooner. If you purchased a bracket between March 1st and the present and do not get a replacement arm, notify me and I will send one out. I will also ship a new replacement arm to any one that bought a bracket from me previous to March 1st if you want one at no cost if you provide me with an address. I include a postage paid envelope to send the old one back to see if in fact I did send out a bad one. I have individually tested each of the recent adjustment arms on my cruiser template and they are stamped on the back with a “P” so any recent bracket purchases will have one of these. I still would encourage taking 5 minutes and doing the test above in case there are differences from the test alternator I use. I humbly apologize to all for any inconvenience this may cause.
Bill
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Bill, as I said earlier, you are overkill man. Its great!
Wow.
Now that is an impressive response.
Bill I think you worry too much sometimes
Now that is an impressive response.
Bill I think you worry too much sometimes
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Seriously I think the only thing missing out of Bill's "replacement program" was a bow-tie wrapped note (BTW there was a note) AND gas money to the post office to drop off the wrong part
You're awesome Bill
You're awesome Bill
- Thread starter
- #60
Yes, still available. Pm me.
Wow.
Now that is an impressive response.
Bill I think you worry too much sometimes
Dan your reply is making me nervous.
Bill
