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Great to know!My 250amp still works great four years later with 3k+ watts of stereo, two agm batteries snd I don’t really drive it a ton.
Just to clarify, are you saying that you're only running the original wire, or do you have a heavier gauge wire running alongside the original?Did alt to battery snd kept standard alt to fuse block wire. Didn’t want to mess with that thing
Hi @xplore and @Biga27110This thread is just over a year old, so I wanted to follow up and see how that upgraded alternator is doing. Hopefully it's running strong, because I bought the 220A version from them for my 2000 LX.
I've heard a few mentions of people upgrading to higher output alternators in the 100 series, but I haven't heard many details on the actual install other than what was mentioned in this thread. Besides upgrading the positive lead to the alternator and probably the ground wires as well, are there any other modifications that were necessary? Also, did you run the positive lead from the alternator directly to the battery terminal, or did that still go to that same little fuse block that hangs off the side?
I was under the impression that the 98-02 were all the same size and plug type. I just did a quick search and confirmed that alternators on Amazon are showing as compatible between that entire year range, so you should be good. Perhaps they just had a lower amperage version for that year since the original was lower.I was taking a look at their inventory, it looks like they have a 220a for 99-02 and the they list a 120a for a 98 LC. Someone correct me if I'm incorrect but I was under the impression that 98 -00 used the same 3 pin connector alt. A 120a would still be an upgrade over my stock 80a in my 98 but I do run a dual battery set up and I would love to get as much power as I can. I was wheeling over the weekend and I noticed sometimes at idle the truck would drop down to 12.6V and would come back up to about 13.2 when I started moving again (of course the a/c was running the whole time as well). All and all everything was fine but makes me think that the OEM unit might be on its way out.
Those work well for high amperage car audio application so shouldn’t be any different.Thanks for the update @James Bentley!
I installed the new alternator yesterday and ran heavier gauge wire along the same route you did to the battery. I still need to upgrade the ground wires and finish up some other little things, but hopefully that will be wrapped up this evening.
I did some research on the fusible link for the alternator, and I'm going to bypass the original one. I purchased this from Amazon last night, so this will be the only thing between the alternator and the battery terminal.
Amazon product ASIN B07R99N5MZ
The pulley is smaller, but it worked just fine for me with the OEM belt.I need to revive this yet again. I am about to install the BNR 220A in my '99. I have the big 3 cables and fuse block on the way but I was told by BNR I needed a new belt. So, I ordered an OEM belt and picked it up. I missed that when they told me I needed a new belt and that I would need a one-size smaller belt. Does anyone have a clue what that belt size is or a part number so I can swap out my new OEM belt or is it possible to run the OEM belt with a BNR alternator?
This is interesting. What were your early warning signs? Could this be attributed to the belt size?The pulley is smaller, but it worked just fine for me with the OEM belt.
Just a heads up though, one of the bearings ended up failing for me after about 9 months. I ended up putting the original alternator back in to get a warranty replacement. Hopefully, the second one does better when I put it in. I'd be curious to hear other people's experiences with these alternators to see if there are any other early failures.
It had nothing to do with the belt size. The warning sign was the audible sound of a failing bearing when the engine was running. I only noticed the sound when the windows were open, so I think I caught it early before it got much worse.This is interesting. What were your early warning signs? Could this be attributed to the belt size?
Thank you very much for this. I will install it with the (new) OEM belt and upgraded wires along with the new fuse. We will roll the dice from there. Thanks again @xploreIt had nothing to do with the belt size. The warning sign was the audible sound of a failing bearing when the engine was running. I only noticed the sound when the windows were open, so I think I caught it early before it got much worse.
I just did this job and used a 2225 mm belt instead of the factory 2240 belt. It works great. Also be advised on the 100 series the Big 3 upgrade is actually a Big 5 upgrade.Thank you very much for this. I will install it with the (new) OEM belt and upgraded wires along with the new fuse. We will roll the dice from there. Thanks again @xplore
This would be awesome! Thank you. Would you happen to know a ballpark on the length of wires? I think I am going to make my own.I just did this job and used a 2225 mm belt instead of the factory 2240 belt. It works great. Also be advised on the 100 series the Big 3 upgrade is actually a Big 5 upgrade.
I already filmed a video, I'm getting ready to upload to YouTube this weekend covering the locations of all of the cables and how I upgraded them.
Sitting here at Buffalo wild wings watching UFC, from memory I would say conservatively 15 ft of black and 8 ft of red will workThis would be awesome! Thank you. Would you happen to know a ballpark on the length of wires? I think I am going to make my own.