Undercoating a 60

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Oct 1, 2002
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I just moved from a dry climate to a wet one (where they also salt the roads) and wanted to keep my rust free cruiser, rust free. So I need to paint or undercoat the bottom side. My problem is:

It needs to be a weekend job(s). I cannot be with out my cruiser for longer than a few days at a time. It needs to be good, and it needs to be somewhat simple. (the thought of lying on my back going through 25 different prepping steps for por15 makes me cringe) Anybody have any suggestions?!?!?
 

woody

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IMO, skip the undercoating, if not applied everywhere, rust gets under it and yer in worse shape. Additionally, undercoating is a spray-job and the prep work is required to ensure it's effective.

Spend $6-8 per week on a drive-thru car wash that includes the underbody spray.

Wisconsin...the land of salty roads...
 
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The p.o. did Ziebart on my truck--worked great, except for where it didn't, that is: wheel wells, anything near exhaust system--heating/cooling caused it to fail. Also, yeah, they didn't get it everywhere it should have gone, either.

Some folks in the Great White North swear by simple oil undercoating every fall, so I painted some waste oil in the spots the undercoating failed and it seems to be holding up fine. Of course, if I go through a car wash and get the undercarriage spray done, it might wash away the oil . . . .

Of course, Woody's idea is good, too--plus it's an excuse to get your truck clean.
 
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I have a friend who just put on racing epoxy. If you take your time and work your way back, makig sure to cover every part, then you wont have any problems.
 
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C-A-R-W-A-S-H.....

Step 1....drive throught a big mud puddle
Step 2....repeat step 1 still no paint is visable
Step 3....admire your freshly **washed** truck
 
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IMHO Do NOT apply any kind of undercoating to parts that you do not want to rust. I did mine about 11 years ago and have been working to remove it all aver since! I now to the oil misting over the whole undercarriage as well as inside all body panels, frame rails, rocker panels etc. When you undercoat and it starts to flake off then the rust has a place to hide and do it's dirty work and the the undercoat WILL peel and flake! :(
 
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As I'm sure you know, it's not what you can see, it what you can't see... That is where the rust starts, deep down in seams, around wheel well fender lips, 1/4 pannels, etc.

The best stuff I've found, is a wax/oil base substance similar to cosmoline... I think Wurth sells it in spray cans. It comes out very thin so it flows into and penetrates into seams and such, then hardens up and stays hard at normal temperatures. On very hot summers days, the stuff actually starts to melt, and keeps flowing in around and down and will drip out. You'll need to remove interior pannels and spray it down behind the fenders and into all thse little places you can't see.
 
G

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Spray Lanolin underneath the Truck(Same stuff that is sprayed onto new Cars when being transported by Ship). Most Panel beaters will be able to do it. It would cost less than $100.00(Not that fake American stuff).
 
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I read about that stuff in a ausi 4x4 mag, but did not know if it was around here in the states. They suggested spraying the whole underbody, engine bay, and drivetrain.
 
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Definely undercoat! I got three FJ60's and one the origianal owner just used the spray on stuff you can get at walmart, and the undercarrage and frame is still in perfect shape, and you can do it on a weekend(make sure you are through.
Good luck, ERICH.
 
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I say no to the undercoat.. it will allow moisture anywhere it does not completely get to.
..I would never go the undercoater again. I use a form of Waxoyl.. They use it in England and other wet climates.
Works great..
Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, ( 137 degrees)(takes a long time; you can use very low heat on a bbq (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.
Hand spray bottle works best... I tried a weed sprayer but clean up = hassle. I spend a few minutes before wheeling and my got rust by the "nuts".
PS.. don't put more was in than the recipe calls for BTDT..gets too thick!


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product
 
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I used Herculiner which I purchased at K-mart for $89.00 followed the prep directions and applyed it with a undercoating gun that I bought at Harbor frieght tool for $5.00 drys like spray on bedliner just thinner just apply more coats. Works great and can withstand pressure washer for future clean up.
 

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