I think this is a good idea. I'll be following your progress. Good luck with it
Undercarriage jerry cans?
- Thread starter TZ62
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I actually see couple advantages over a long range tank with a setup like this.
Can't pull out a long range tank if you need to get a ride to get fuel.
Can't put water in a long range tank either.
Downsides being capacity, efficient use of space, convenience.
Can't pull out a long range tank if you need to get a ride to get fuel.
Can't put water in a long range tank either.
Downsides being capacity, efficient use of space, convenience.
I also think the steel platform attached to the spare tire lifting mechanism is a good idea (if you don't carry your spare there). My key concern is in finding cans that won't leak on their sides.
Scepter MFC's won't leak.
bloc
SILVER Star
MFCs and maybe a home-made handle to close them firmly then open once they get stuck was my plan.
I think if you crawl under there you'll see that the spare tire crossmember is located far enough away from the body that it wastes a ton of space. From me mocking things up a week or so ago, I think it'll have to come out if you don't want the cans hanging below the bottom edge of the frame rails.
That said.. I'm not in a place where I can check definitively.
Now assuming you are doing fabrication to put the new crossmember (for the front hinge) between the frame rails it wouldn't be too hard to move and repurpose the spare tire crank to pull the back edge of it up.
I think if you crawl under there you'll see that the spare tire crossmember is located far enough away from the body that it wastes a ton of space. From me mocking things up a week or so ago, I think it'll have to come out if you don't want the cans hanging below the bottom edge of the frame rails.
That said.. I'm not in a place where I can check definitively.
Now assuming you are doing fabrication to put the new crossmember (for the front hinge) between the frame rails it wouldn't be too hard to move and repurpose the spare tire crank to pull the back edge of it up.
I was in the home Depot tonight and saw these. My eye-calipers said they are about the right size for that space. Too redneck? And maybe not these specifically, but army surplus aluminum boxes, or...?
Don't use plastic jerry cans! Also, the standard steel Nato-style jerry cans are not designed to be stored lying down when containing fuel. They need to be standing upright. Never, ever transport a jerry can containing petrol/gasoline flat! The slightest leak, and the slightest spark, and boom! Perhaps ok for diesel but still not the way jerry cans are designed to be used. The vapour space needs to be at the top.
Custom-made long-range tanks with impact protection are made to replace the factory spare wheel (if it's relocated to a rear wheel carrier or secured to a roof rack) though they are not a cheap addition. But you get what you pay for in terms of a very high quality extra fuel tank.
Custom-made long-range tanks with impact protection are made to replace the factory spare wheel (if it's relocated to a rear wheel carrier or secured to a roof rack) though they are not a cheap addition. But you get what you pay for in terms of a very high quality extra fuel tank.
- Thread starter
- #28
My truck is diesel, so no petrol bombs to worry about. The main reasons I don't want them on the roof is 1) 80L of weight up high, and 2) I pitch my tent on the roof platform and don't feel like putting them up and down each morning/night. I want to pack them and forget about them until I need them.
The spare tire mount is braced between the driver and passenger side chassis rails, but it's significantly below the floor of the body. My first thought was to lay the Jerry cans flat on top of that, providing both support and impact protection. Alas, there's not quite enough room between the tire platform and the body.
I don't wheel hard, mostly just dirt/mud roads through the bush. I want to have the capacity to carry extra fuel across vast empty spaces (i.e. Namibia) when I need it, but most of my travels max out at about 500-600km between fuel depots. I don't see myself bogging down in swampy mud while running on fumes and needing to get those cans out when I'm in a desperate situation - I'm a dad and pretty cautious when traveling with my kids.
I already own the Jerry cans, which is why I wanted to incorporate them instead of installing a whole sub tank. I love the design the guy with the hj61 did - I may take that picture to my local welder and see what kind of a price he quotes me.
The spare tire mount is braced between the driver and passenger side chassis rails, but it's significantly below the floor of the body. My first thought was to lay the Jerry cans flat on top of that, providing both support and impact protection. Alas, there's not quite enough room between the tire platform and the body.
I don't wheel hard, mostly just dirt/mud roads through the bush. I want to have the capacity to carry extra fuel across vast empty spaces (i.e. Namibia) when I need it, but most of my travels max out at about 500-600km between fuel depots. I don't see myself bogging down in swampy mud while running on fumes and needing to get those cans out when I'm in a desperate situation - I'm a dad and pretty cautious when traveling with my kids.
I already own the Jerry cans, which is why I wanted to incorporate them instead of installing a whole sub tank. I love the design the guy with the hj61 did - I may take that picture to my local welder and see what kind of a price he quotes me.
One of the issues people claim to have with the mod to raise the crossmember (and lowering the crank) is that the tire blocks the access to the crank. FJ/FZJ80 Spare tire lift (5" the easy way) I haven't done the mod, but I'm assuming the rod to turn the crank would fit between the cans.
bloc
SILVER Star
Totally forgot about that mod.. Just might work.
- Thread starter
- #31
I have a swing-out spare and don't use the crank or underbody hanger. That's why I've thought of putting the Jerry cans in that space. But I agree with Blade 80LC that in theory the crank would fit between the cans.
I still have doubts how well any can will hold gas laying on it's side. I also understand people's concerns about carrying gas cans under the truck. Personally I don't have more fear of a gas can under the truck than on the bumper, and less than I fear having a gas can on the roof. I don't believe that full gas cans explode, if lit on fire, they burn. Gas vapor explodes. Gas burns (rapidly and ignites easily). Empty gas cans can explode, but with no extra gas the explosion is not all that powerful, and there is no extra gas to burn.
The most dangerous gas cans are half filled. Gas vapor to explode, and lots of gas to be spread and aerosolized by the explosion.
The most dangerous gas cans are half filled. Gas vapor to explode, and lots of gas to be spread and aerosolized by the explosion.
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Funny, I'm working on this exact idea. I built a working prototype 4 years ago but set it aside, recently got back on it. This is something I plan to put into production.
The hard part is designing something universal enough to work with all aftermarket bumpers. My original worked with the OEM. It does not with my 4x4 Labs.
The hard part is designing something universal enough to work with all aftermarket bumpers. My original worked with the OEM. It does not with my 4x4 Labs.
I decided to go ahead and Try to come up with a way to do this on my HDJ81. The main advantage for me is to have only one swing out on the rear bumper, be able to bring 2 Jerry cans for emergency/better range, keep the weight low and be easy enough to get to them for the odd time that I will.
The basket is made from 3x3x 1/4 6061 aluminum angle. I used the factory holes on the cross member to mount a bracket for the hinges. I also used the factory spare tire chain winch to raise and lower the basket.
The factory spring loaded bracket locks in to a receiver tray bolted to the back of the basket.
The chain winch is bolted to the rear bumper.
When in the fully up position the front lip of the chain receiver tray stops against a stopper welded to the hitch cross member. In this position, it is very easy to take full Jerry's on and off the basket.
The basket is made from 3x3x 1/4 6061 aluminum angle. I used the factory holes on the cross member to mount a bracket for the hinges. I also used the factory spare tire chain winch to raise and lower the basket.
The chain winch is bolted to the rear bumper.
When in the fully up position the front lip of the chain receiver tray stops against a stopper welded to the hitch cross member. In this position, it is very easy to take full Jerry's on and off the basket.
I made this socket to be able to activate the winch effortlessly with my air ratchet and on board air. A regular 3/8 ratchet can also be used.
When fully up, nothing sticks out bellow the frame rails. Its a tight fit but it works!
When fully up, nothing sticks out bellow the frame rails. Its a tight fit but it works!
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
This is genius! Nice work.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Home Depot?!?! Seriously? You're dead to me!
I have thought of this idea, cool to see it made. I do have a concern though. I have the same Scepter cans for my 60.
I built a rear carrier for 3 cans for my last trip up to the Arctic and back. I have a same overlap joint that you do and over
the course of 3 weeks it chafed against one of the cans, probably wearing through 1/3 of the thickness.
So I would strongly recommend a thin alum sheet under the cans against the welds down below. Sort of a moleskin
kind of solution. You would hate to drive 2 days in the back country and find out a pin hole has drained a can!
Hope this helps, J
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Why not use 10L Jerry cans and stand them up? The tray would end up hanging down another 4.5" (11" tall for a 10L jerry can vs 6.5" wide for a 20L) but then the can would be upright how they are supposed to be transported.
Good point Pilot Ill ,look into that!
