ubolt flip?

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I thought they were at least 1/2" steel. 5/8" even better. Something is not kosher here. That metal shouldn't bend if properly heat treated. Not with 90 ft/lbs of torque. Note: There may be some distortion due to camera angle, paralexing (sp?) where the camera is not square to the image being taken and the sides of the picture distort which is normal unless corrected ... but nothing close that would account for the warp in OverHanger's pic.

Cahil
 
Cruisergreg said:
Wow, Steve, how'd you get those huge plates to bend? I put 110 ft-lbs on mine with no distortion.
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Mine distorted too...BJ60 with a few mods.

Hmmm...have to check the BJ74 too. Noticed the 60 ones as I've had the kit on and off a few times changing axles.

I would buy them again as well...

gb
 
I have the MAF kit and would do it again.

Look around for a used one from somebody going to SOA before you buy new.
 
I have the Man-a-fre kit and agree it is the best option out there but also agree that the shock mounts are off. so much so that i can't run the flip kit on my passenger side rear. in that it gets in the way of my elocker acuator. granted if I was running a stock axle the flip kit would work fine on the passenger side rear but the stockskid plate works with my set-up i just wish the flip kits were configured the same then i could run it on all four corners.
here are some pics of what i am talking about
stock skid plate
http://www.yankeetoys.org/cruiserjason/images/index/e-locker stuff/elocker 01.jpg
http://www.yankeetoys.org/cruiserjason/images/index/e-locker stuff/elocker 02.jpg
http://www.yankeetoys.org/cruiserjason/images/index/e-locker stuff/elocker 04.jpg
if the welded on bolt were longer for the shock mount and there was some sort of stopper so the shock could only go on so far that would eleviate the issue. i can see were a longer bolt to ge the mounting point to the stock location would be more susceptible to bend or damage so some sort of bracing would have to be added (tied into the stop) not sure were the attached pic will show up but the above is the thought behind it.
Again though I really like them and think they are the best product out there I plan to make these mods myself just have to track down a long enought bolt to use.
 
overhanger said:
90 ft/lbs by hand with accurate torque wrench, not impact wrench.
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hummm interesting .. I can tought in 3 option ..

1. bad heat threadment to the steelplate
2. your torque wrencher has badaccurate ..
3. you are working with Clark Kent in your TLC :D
 
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As soon as the now in progress 3FE Bash is over I will check back in with another picture which was taken at the same time as the above pic. There will plenty of eye witnesses at the Bash to inspect the plates in person. It is not a distortion, photo-wise, both front plates are bent to a similar degree and the U-bolts splay out at a non-parallel angle. The plates were flat at the time of install and it wasn't until after wheeling them and during a retorquing of the U-bolts that the bends became obvious. At the time the pics were taken I thought is was strange and both pictures were passed on to MAF about six months, or so, ago. I'd be happy to replace them and send these plates in for MAF's inspection and testing if they're interested. The torque wrench used has been used side by side with other quality wrenches with no major aberrations detected. I am no Clark Kent but I do wheel my truck fairly hard.
 
overhanger said:
The torque wrench used has been used side by side with other quality wrenches with no major aberrations detected. I am no Clark Kent but I do wheel my truck fairly hard.
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hey dude .. the options that I posted above, are a simple joke .. ;)

:cheers:
 
Tapage said:
hey dude .. the options that I posted above, are a simple joke .. ;)

:cheers:
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Hey Dude, simple is as simple does. Thanks for your sense of humor. I wish Manafre had the same sense of humor and had offered to at least take a look at their product that some may seem to think has failed and may be put off towards buying in the future but that hasn't happened. Maybe they don't care? Nah, that couldn't be it.
 
overhanger said:
Hey Dude, simple is as simple does. Thanks for your sense of humor. I wish Manafre had the same sense of humor and had offered to at least take a look at their product that some may seem to think has failed and may be put off towards buying in the future but that hasn't happened. Maybe they don't care? Nah, that couldn't be it.
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This is not an industry noted for heros in the customer service arena. Most often it is blamed on the consumer.
 
fyi from the manufacturer.
I run them on my 69. the top plate will warp because the mounting surface is not flat. the creapest remedyi've come up with is to machine stock to weld to the plate, front and back, that rests within the stock u-bolt gutters.
approximate cost, machining and additional weld process is $23.00~$25.00 a pair on the wholesale level. that translates to a $40.00 retail price increase.
since the warping doesn't seem to effect perfomance I elected not to sting the customer with the additional cost.
however if enough people say "yes i'd rather pay more" i'd do it.
by the way those costs were based on 50 pair
$4.50 ~$4.75 x 4 ( machine shop services including material)
10~15 min shop labor for welding @ $75.00 per hour shop rate
 
Could you use the top ones in this pic and add a shock mount?

IMG_4012.jpg
 
Ya, the rear ones do not warp due to the gusset that follows the curve of the axle. Same idea for the front would look after this isse.

I checked my BJ74, and the front ones warped as well..

gb
 
lcwizard said:
fyi from the manufacturer.
I run them on my 69. the top plate will warp because the mounting surface is not flat. the creapest remedyi've come up with is to machine stock to weld to the plate, front and back, that rests within the stock u-bolt gutters.
approximate cost, machining and additional weld process is $23.00~$25.00 a pair on the wholesale level. that translates to a $40.00 retail price increase.
since the warping doesn't seem to effect perfomance I elected not to sting the customer with the additional cost.
however if enough people say "yes i'd rather pay more" i'd do it.
by the way those costs were based on 50 pair
$4.50 ~$4.75 x 4 ( machine shop services including material)
10~15 min shop labor for welding @ $75.00 per hour shop rate
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave Gore, I'm presuming you are lcwizard, for your input regarding the bending of the top plate being something that can safely be lived with. I have been doing so for a couple of years now. For me, your thoughts are the end of this part of the flip kit thread. As I have stated all along, I give your U-bolt flip kits two thumbs up as being great upgrades.
 
overhanger said:
As I have stated all along, I give your U-bolt flip kits two thumbs up as being great upgrades.
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Yup, I have noticed a difference running trails with other trucks, same size tires, SUA...no getting hung up on the plate, and more clearance...

All good...

gb
 
Ah, so now I'm beginning to understand! (digging up old posts...) Does that mean I need to grind off the bumpstop thingies (snubbers?) on the front axle for the gusseted top plates to fit? Sure wont need 'em with that big ol' hunk of steel!

nial
 
The only issue that I have with my 4+ flip kits is that the shock mount is 5/8 inch diameter and my 12/88 FJ-62 has 3/4 inch diameter stock mounts. I shimmed that with 1/8 thick pipe with an 5/8 ID and 3/4 OD but it was still annoying not to realize that there was a mismatch until after I had installed the kit front and rear. I'm not sure when FJ-60s went from 5/8 to 3/4 but I think 2 versions of the kit should be offered.
 
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