U joint hack job (1 Viewer)

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Cool tool, but id not trade it for my blunt tipped air hammer and bench vice...At least for disassembly. However I find that with parts cleaned and bores hit with a few seconds of emery = quick install with only gentle hammering of the caps when driven in squarely.
 
Must have been an inexperienced young-ling working on your truck, hope they learned a lesson. Can keep it as a spare?

I've replaced hundreds of light truck / automotive u-joints. A hard rubber mallet, a vice, some wood blocks, sometimes heat - thats all you need. Patients and beer help too. U-joints are auto repair 101, vehicles have been using them for what, 100 years now???
 
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Must have been an inexperienced young-ling working on your truck, hope they learned a lesson. Can keep it as a spare?

I've replaced hundreds of light truck / automotive u-joints. A hard rubber mallet, a vice, some wood blocks, sometimes heat - thats all you need. Patients and beer help too. U-joints are auto repair 101, vehicles have been using them for what, 100 years now???

Yeah I’m gonna keep it even if just for the U joints. You’re spot on with the tech. Just a young kid, I almost felt bad laying into him like I did but oh well. Have a little pride in your work and don’t be afraid to say I don’t know or ask for help. I been working on cars for 40 years and cruisers for the past three, and I still need a hand sometimes.
 
Charles Toyota. Norwich connecticut.
Forgot to add they also had the front driveshaft 45 out of phase.
I've just got to ask, does Charles Toyota use a Beaver as their mascot? The reason i ask, that damage sure looks like they turned a metal beaver or an IDIOT loose on your drive shaft. First, and foremost, any mechanic working at a dealership who would try to pass that caliber of work off on a customer should be FIRED!
 
I've just got to ask, does Charles Toyota use a Beaver as their mascot? The reason i ask, that damage sure looks like they turned a metal beaver or an IDIOT loose on your drive shaft. First, and foremost, any mechanic working at a dealership who would try to pass that caliber of work off on a customer should be FIRED!

This made me laugh. It does look like something tried to eat it. The service manager did say he was going to “talk” with Jose on Monday morning... Me thinks he might be back to changing oil or hopefully his career.
 
Geez that's a bad job. I consider myself, still, a half banana 'mechanic" but one of the first things I learned as a teenager was how to replace a u joint on an old plymouth using sockets and a hammer.
 
I'm still trying to figure out what he was trying to gain by going after it with a cutoff wheel. :bang: That's just a bunch of extra work (and destruction) without actually making any progress on removing the U-joints. :hmm:

The grinding happened AFTER the U-Joint was out. They wail on the damn thing with a BF hammer and bend the lips of the bore all to hell then have to remove that material in order to get the new U-Joint back in.

You would be shocked to see what some folks use/do to remove U-Joints. It's probably the #1 job where people fail to use the right tool(s) (except maybe tie rod ends). :frown:

It would be one thing IF you were way out in BFE and HAD to change U-Joints on the trail with a minimal tools. But there is NO excuse for doing that kind of job in a repair shop.
 
The grinding happened AFTER the U-Joint was out. They wail on the damn thing with a BF hammer and bend the lips of the bore all to hell then have to remove that material in order to get the new U-Joint back in.

You would be shocked to see what some folks use/do to remove U-Joints. It's probably the #1 job where people fail to use the right tool(s) (except maybe tie rod ends). :frown:

It would be one thing IF you were way out in BFE and HAD to change U-Joints on the trail with a minimal tools. But there is NO excuse for doing that kind of job in a repair shop.
That's what I was going to say, that looks like an emergency trail fix.

Are there any extra miles on the truck?

:hmm:
 
The grinding happened AFTER the U-Joint was out. They wail on the damn thing with a BF hammer and bend the lips of the bore all to hell then have to remove that material in order to get the new U-Joint back in.

You would be shocked to see what some folks use/do to remove U-Joints. It's probably the #1 job where people fail to use the right tool(s) (except maybe tie rod ends). :frown:

It would be one thing IF you were way out in BFE and HAD to change U-Joints on the trail with a minimal tools. But there is NO excuse for doing that kind of job in a repair shop.

GREAT point. That didn’t even cross my mind it being in a well equipped shop. I’m still trying to wrap my head around what happened in there. The service manager didn’t even know what to say. And I quote “We don’t have a leg to stand on”
 
That's what I was going to say, that looks like an emergency trail fix.

Are there any extra miles on the truck?

:hmm:
Nope. I took a picture of the odometer before it went in. They just had a drunk bubba in there that day I guess. 😂
 
GREAT point. That didn’t even cross my mind it being in a well equipped shop. I’m still trying to wrap my head around what happened in there. The service manager didn’t even know what to say. And I quote “We don’t have a leg to stand on”
Let me clarify the above post. “We don’t have a leg to stand on”. “We” meaning the dealership, not me.
 
The slip yolk (yolk subassembly) is still available as a separate part from Toyota, but the dealership likely might give you a new drive shaft if you pushed for it.
 
The slip yolk (yolk subassembly) is still available as a separate part from Toyota, but the dealership likely might give you a new drive shaft if you pushed for it.

They are getting me a brand new one. Going in Monday morning.
 
Let's see if they can manage to snap the pinion shaft in half while doing the replacement. I would definitely be asking for that part to be handed to me in the box.

Lol. Trust me. They will not be touching it ever again. I’m not even bringing the rig to pick the part up
 
New slip yolk or complete drive shaft.
 

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