TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (8 Viewers)

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Well strike 1 for the Ishino Stone gasket set.

The spark plug tube gaskets appear to be the wrong size. Unfortunately I discovered this after removing all the old ones. So currently hunting for ones that fit elsewhere.

They are $10/pop at the dealer and they can't get them until Tuesday. Really trying to get the engine in today. If I have to I'll stick the valve cover on without them and leave the upper intake off. But I'd rather not

IMG_4947.jpeg
 
Well strike 1 for the Ishino Stone gasket set.

The spark plug tube gaskets appear to be the wrong size. Unfortunately I discovered this after removing all the old ones. So currently hunting for ones that fit elsewhere.

They are $10/pop at the dealer and they can't get them until Tuesday. Really trying to get the engine in today. If I have to I'll stick the valve cover on without them and leave the upper intake off. But I'd rather not

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Update it appears late model 1FZs got smaller diameter seals that match a 2Uz. So this Valve cover or the entire engine must be newer than '94.
 
Update it appears late model 1FZs got smaller diameter seals that match a 2Uz. So this Valve cover or the entire engine must be newer than '94.
For anyone wondering,

The part number for the small spark plug tube gasket is 11193-50010

Also, standing at the parts counter and buying the seals was $54.90. But they $3.40/piece on the parts website for the dealer. So I ended up returning the ones I bought in store, they waived the restock fee. Then ordering them online. And just had to wait for the order to get approved by corporate for fraud detection. Then I picked them up again. This was all in a 20min span, it was confusing.

But now I know their website and in store prices are not the same. Had no clue
 
Jesus, that's robbery. They'll probably hand you back the same parts, lol.
 
For anyone wondering,

The part number for the small spark plug tube gasket is 11193-50010

Also, standing at the parts counter and buying the seals was $54.90. But they $3.40/piece on the parts website for the dealer. So I ended up returning the ones I bought in store, they waived the restock fee. Then ordering them online. And just had to wait for the order to get approved by corporate for fraud detection. Then I picked them up again. This was all in a 20min span, it was confusing.

But now I know their website and in store prices are not the same. Had no clue
This is what Hendrick Toyota in Apex does. Approach counter with part number and they quote the highest price possible. If you call them out or show them their own website with the cheaper price, they will adjust but only then. Matt Hales is no longer with Hendrick but when he was at the counter, he always gave me the best possible deal when I came in.
 
I talked to Mark Jacobson about this a year or two ago. They said all dealers with the uniform website actually have no authority over it. It’s all run by corporate, hence the website showing a lower price that the in-store price. I generally order online for in store pickup and take the lower price. However, sometimes the price I get in store with my discount is lower than online.

Some dealers still have their own independent website however which is not run by corporate.
 
Some small wrenching yesterday on the boobaru
New front PS wheel bearing. Bigger rotors, pads and calipers from a spec B legacy for the front and new pads and rotors for the rear.
This coming weekend. Whiteline front and rear sways and endlinks along with whiteline strut tower brace.
Sometime in the following weeks. Much larger process west I tercooler with intercooler cooling nozzles and tank, new front stuts and springs along with drivers lower control arm. Also install the killer b air oil seperator.
By the end of summer finish exhaust with EL headers and rear pies and muffler, slightly larger injectors and then off to Bader Built to get a new tune. At which point everything under the hood and under the car other than wiring harnesses, gas tank and the manual trans itself will have been replaced.... engine, all hoses, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, cv axles, radiator, all bushings, control arms, struts/shocks springs, subframes, etc.... all with under 1k miles on them.... pretty much a brand new car at this point with every reliability subaru mod possible on it..... so it should give me 4 weeks of zero problems... lol.

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Some small wrenching yesterday on the boobaru
New front PS wheel bearing. Bigger rotors, pads and calipers from a spec B legacy for the front and new pads and rotors for the rear.
This coming weekend. Whiteline front and rear sways and endlinks along with whiteline strut tower brace.
Sometime in the following weeks. Much larger process west I tercooler with intercooler cooling nozzles and tank, new front stuts and springs along with drivers lower control arm. Also install the killer b air oil seperator.
By the end of summer finish exhaust with EL headers and rear pies and muffler, slightly larger injectors and then off to Bader Built to get a new tune. At which point everything under the hood and under the car other than wiring harnesses, gas tank and the manual trans itself will have been replaced.... engine, all hoses, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, cv axles, radiator, all bushings, control arms, struts/shocks springs, subframes, etc.... all with under 1k miles on them.... pretty much a brand new car at this point with every reliability subaru mod possible on it..... so it should give me 4 weeks of zero problems... lol.

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Nice work. Do you ever replace the opposite side wheel bearing as “PM” when the other side is clearly bad?
 
Nice work. Do you ever replace the opposite side wheel bearing as “PM” when the other side is clearly bad?
Generally yes this would be the first time I haven't. This was just a "this thing is Nicole and diming me to death"
Long story short I bought the car with messed up suspension as it had side shipped a curb during an ice storm we had up here. So I couldnt actually drive the car at first. Turned out more suspension was messed up that I thought so pretty much the entire rear suspension and subframe was replaced. After getting it drivable I found out it had an engine problem. Took a while to find the main issue as it was acting like a blown headgasket but every test (sniffer, leak down, pressure) it came back as fine. So there was an issue somewhere that was letting boost get into the cooling system and then spraying coolant out of thr overflow tank. Decided just to put a brand new engine it it and replace basically everything else under the hood because "hey why not" after breaking down the old engine I found one of the head bolts was slightly stripped letting it lift efev so slightly when boost got high enough.
Anyway after I though that was all done for it drove pretty good except for some rattling in the front suspension. Before i could even get to that cylinder 1 started misfiring bad. After more time sitting and testing found out that the injector wasn't getting any power. No idea why amd that part of the harness is basically impossible to get to without removing a ton of stuff so I bypassed it and ran a new wire. After fixing that I drive it for a while to finish the 1,000 mile break in period. During which the wheel bearing went bad and the rear brakes stated grinding ( i already knew they were getting low). Ordered up that along with the performance Sway bars and upgraded brakes for the front. Then decided to just finish off all the suspension and bushings period. Doing the other bearing just got lost in the shuffle.

Wait that story wasn't really short... lmao. But it was longer than the reality of thr situation. I've had this for over 3 years now and we have put about 1,050 miles on it total.

After it's done with the remaining suspension and finishing exhaust, injectors and tuning it will be Andreas DD

I've got a spare engine, heads and a lot of blue or gray packages from the UK that start with C and end with osworth that I'll be building slowly into a killer engine. It may one day end up.in this one but I'm hoping to find a cheap two door 90s GC8 coupe to throw it in.

Only one of the aforementioned parts that aren't in storage are these camshafts.

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All that typing and only half answered ypur question. But I'll be doing the other WB at some point soon.

All this faping around with this thing and money spent is the main reason I don't have everything for the Gen V swap for the 80 yet.
 
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Jesus, that's robbery. They'll probably hand you back the same parts, lol.
They did in fact hand me the same parts 15min later
 
But more importantly, got all the PS and trans cooler lines buttoned up last night among other things.

Discovered I forgot to install the hard coolant pipe that runs to the throttle body, and had to remove the fan, belts, alternator, and alternator bracket to fish it in but got it.

Then realized again that I had to install the fan and the fan shroud at the same time. But eventually got it.

Honestly the hardest part last night was cramming the 3/8" trans cooler lines onto the the Toyota metric fittings on the radiator and junctions.

All that is to say I cranked it last night. Cranked it for a little while with the coil wire off to let it circulate some oil.

But then plugged it in and still no start. I did no diagnosing, it was already 11:15 at that point. So today after work that's my goal. To have it running and reassemble the core support and lights and all
 
The aforementioned hard coolant Pipe, and my absolutely trashed AC idler bearing I replaced.

Unfortunately I had to reuse my Old V belts, I forgot to order new ones on my Big parts order, and struck out finding them in stock locally. Which surprised me.

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The aforementioned hard coolant Pipe, and my absolutely trashed AC idler bearing I replaced.

Unfortunately I had to reuse my Old V belts, I forgot to order new ones on my Big parts order, and struck out finding them in stock locally. Which surprised me.

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I typically hard mount my alternator with the Toyota bracket but I guess you could just lay it in there as well.
 
I typically hard mount my alternator with the Toyota bracket but I guess you could just lay it in there as well.
It's for serviceability, way more convenient that way
 
Well the radiator is 100% leaking. Noticed damage when i removed it. Honestly probably a large part of My coolant loss before. But it never left spots on the ground before.

At least the machinist confirmed the head gasket had definitely been blown so I don't feel like all my work was in vain.

That being said I'm running her like this for the weekend and will just keep her topped off.

I'll pull the rad and replace it and the v belts at the same time.

New radiators are so dang expensive though. Might know where a good one junkyard one is though.

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IMG_4982.jpeg
 
Well the radiator is 100% leaking. Noticed damage when i removed it. Honestly probably a large part of My coolant loss before. But it never left spots on the ground before.

At least the machinist confirmed the head gasket had definitely been blown so I don't feel like all my work was in vain.

That being said I'm running her like this for the weekend and will just keep her topped off.

I'll pull the rad and replace it and the v belts at the same time.

New radiators are so dang expensive though. Might know where a good one junkyard one is though.

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Got a 1fz rad here if you need.
Not home just yet so unsure I can drain pull it by morning but truck is sitting available if you wanna come grab it. Maybe 40 min from you in Madison if it helps.

3thirty6 6ninety 9673
 

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