As a general (and very loose rule) capacitors will hold a charge for ........... 2 weeks. (really)
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (1 Viewer)
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As a general (and very loose rule) capacitors will hold a charge for ........... 2 weeks. (really)
Totally depends on how the caps are in the circuit. Most modern electronics utilize bleed down resistors that dissipate the charge as a factor of the RC constant, usually in a matter of milliseconds to a few (3-5ish) seconds. An ideal cap will hold a charge infinitely, but in the real world all caps have some leakage current, that even if there is no bleed down resistor they will still lose their charge - depends on the type of the cap to know how long for sure. I think Rice's assessment of 2 weeks is not unreasonable for almost "worst case scenario", but be warned it's been a LONG time since I did any of that math and am far too lazy to confirm.
Agree. Integrated bleeders and within moments all is well, and the spectrum of leak down rates is immense. At the end of two weeks of having one simply sit on the shelf I'm still not foolish enough to assume a potential difference of zero.
John, related to your question I'm a little doubtful your tube was shot due to a capacitor. Especially if you installed the new tube and didn't drive it afterwards. My first guess would be manufacturing defect on the tube.
Let us know what you learn.
John, related to your question I'm a little doubtful your tube was shot due to a capacitor. Especially if you installed the new tube and didn't drive it afterwards. My first guess would be manufacturing defect on the tube.
Let us know what you learn.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Either someone at the shop is pranking me by switching a good tube for a bad tube, or the tube I installed was damaged upon installation. Turns out that my tube/Hammond guru says broken vacuum can cause the frosting whether power is applied to it or not (that was news to me). He does not see any way that the tube could have been damaged in this fashion by a voltage spike while unplugged, nor does he believe it is possible for the caps to backfeed a damaging charge to the tube unless a resistor has given up the ghost (and his knowledge of the circuit says to 90% rule that out). I think it's time to break vacuum on a known good tube and see if it frosts...just to be scientific.
So, it was just another day of wondering "WTH?" around here.
So, it was just another day of wondering "WTH?" around here.
That stuff is contagious!
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
A different sort of cruiser.
Since I'm home with a sick dog this weekend and not at the HAMOM, figured I'd start getting my V-Max ready for the CraigsLIst.
It's been sitting a few (8) years. Even though the gas was stabilized, it's all gone to poo.
Cleaning the carbs. Draining the tank. New fuel filter and battery.
If I have time, I'll install the updated springs and gold valve emulators in the forks. Then, just like my last house, it'll be right where I wanted to be just before I sell it.
Since I'm home with a sick dog this weekend and not at the HAMOM, figured I'd start getting my V-Max ready for the CraigsLIst.
It's been sitting a few (8) years. Even though the gas was stabilized, it's all gone to poo.
Cleaning the carbs. Draining the tank. New fuel filter and battery.
If I have time, I'll install the updated springs and gold valve emulators in the forks. Then, just like my last house, it'll be right where I wanted to be just before I sell it.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
6 battery ground cables. 1/0 cable, soldered lugs, heat shrink, 1/2" split loom, taped. Dual batteries. Long cable connects NEG posts, 2 bat to frame, 2 bat to body, one main bat to block
I am a HUGE fan of adding grounds to any vehicle. There will be a frame to body strap at the fire wall, Bat NEG to fuel pump with jumper to frame at rear axle, Bat NEG to inside dash area. All lighting and other accessories will also have a direct Bat NEG wire
I am a HUGE fan of adding grounds to any vehicle. There will be a frame to body strap at the fire wall, Bat NEG to fuel pump with jumper to frame at rear axle, Bat NEG to inside dash area. All lighting and other accessories will also have a direct Bat NEG wire
6 battery ground cables. 1/0 cable, soldered lugs, heat shrink, 1/2" split loom, taped. Dual batteries. Long cable connects NEG posts, 2 bat to frame, 2 bat to body, one main bat to block
I am a HUGE fan of adding grounds to any vehicle. There will be a frame to body strap at the fire wall, Bat NEG to fuel pump with jumper to frame at rear axle, Bat NEG to inside dash area. All lighting and other accessories will also have a direct Bat NEG wire
what crimper do you use or do you just solder?
Well new starter time for the suburban. Went to start yesterday and nothing, no click but everything else works.
battery checked, terminal bolts and wires replaced (needed ot anyway but I am going to get better wires soon). All fuses and relays checked and distribution block on firewall. Then tried to jump the solenoid and nothing, just sparks.
Hi Torque mini starter ordered and will arrive tomorrow. Starter looks to be original as it is an old style AC Delco. So 292k ain't too bad.
battery checked, terminal bolts and wires replaced (needed ot anyway but I am going to get better wires soon). All fuses and relays checked and distribution block on firewall. Then tried to jump the solenoid and nothing, just sparks.
Hi Torque mini starter ordered and will arrive tomorrow. Starter looks to be original as it is an old style AC Delco. So 292k ain't too bad.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
That's pretty good for a starter Al I solder and crimp, belt and suspenders. I got the crimper when I lived in the Keys. At one of the marine stores, no brand markings on it, made in china. Still works. Beat it with a hammer type.
I solder and crimp, belt and suspenders. I got the crimper when I lived in the Keys. At one of the marine stores, no brand markings on it, made in china. Still works. Beat it with a hammer type.
Built the foundation for my wood flat bed yesterday. This will be what I use until I can afford to have the chassis extended and a proper steel flat bed made.
This wood bed is 9' long, so it seems I'll only need to lengthen the F-550 chassis 4-5' or so to fit moonshine
This wood bed is 9' long, so it seems I'll only need to lengthen the F-550 chassis 4-5' or so to fit moonshine
I am extending some hand rails for my porch and need flat stock and "U" channel stock. Not stuff carried at Lowe's. So where in Charlotte is a source for metal. Not needing more than 4 feet of each. I also need 1/2 round stock. I tried cutting a black pipe in half, that look like a worm when I finished.
Thanks for any ideas.
Thanks for any ideas.
I haven't been there yet, but there's a place I've been meaning to got to for similar needs. Can't vouge for it, but web presence looks good and lots of diverse products.
Metal Super Markets
Metalsupermarkets.com
6601-G Northpark Blvd
Charlotte, NC, 28216
I'm curious to see what recommendations you get from the club. I need a selection of random pieces, tube, angle, sq tube, etc
Metal Super Markets
Metalsupermarkets.com
6601-G Northpark Blvd
Charlotte, NC, 28216
I'm curious to see what recommendations you get from the club. I need a selection of random pieces, tube, angle, sq tube, etc
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Any full on steel supply or larger fab shop can also sell you "drops". That is what you are looking for.
Progress!
When I stopped by Tor Fab a few weeks back they were putting one in a 60
Old and busted and the new hotness.
Simple job about 35 minutes and the pure sexy sound of the mini torque starter was played for me. Truck starts up in about 1.5 seconds now as opposed to the 3-4 before.
Simple job about 35 minutes and the pure sexy sound of the mini torque starter was played for me. Truck starts up in about 1.5 seconds now as opposed to the 3-4 before.
