TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (5 Viewers)

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That is the rear caliper... you have to order the one with the mounting bracket if you want that also :)

EDIT: Just add an A onto the part number for NAPA... looking at their website its a few dollars more
On the DS I didn’t specify and got the whole thing, I should’ve checked this time. When I went to pick it up they said they’d have to special order the bracket. I need to inspect my bracket and see if I can use it or not.
 
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My temporary transmission bolts. Cost $23 for four studs and four nuts. I just wanted to get it assembled, I’ll replace them with bolt bolts before I run it.
 
If you beat the rear rotor with a hammer you probably bent the pins that hold the brake shoes in place. you have to loosen up the rear dhoes in order to clear the rotor lip chances are there is little bit of a Groove that the is on the outside of the rotor catching the shoes.
 
If you beat the rear rotor with a hammer you probably bent the pins that hold the brake shoes in place. you have to loosen up the rear dhoes in order to clear the rotor lip chances are there is little bit of a Groove that the is on the outside of the rotor catching the shoes.
Possibly, I beat it but it didn’t move a mm so maybe not, what’s starsnge is my rotor doesn’t even wiggle. It is completely solid.
 
Soak it with some penetrating oil at the hub for a little bit and then try to hit it on, to see if you can knock it loose.
 
Soak it with some penetrating oil at the hub for a little bit and then try to hit it on, to see if you can knock it loose.
I used those two little bolt holes and they popped it right off. I think it was just rusted on.
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Took it for a test drive, stops slightly better than before I believe, still not great. I think the culprit is air in my ABS system.

As of now all four calipers, 3/4 rotors, all 8 pads, and the two front soft lines have been replaced. And the master
 
remember to bleed the LSVP. it should be bleed between the drivers rear and the passenger front. sorry, forgot to mention it earlier.
 
I made a horrible a horrible mistake and decided to follow the advice from @jamesurq
And buy a new throwout bearing. Something terrible is gonna happen.
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Between that a buying correct bolts I’m doing too many things right and not enough redneck engineering
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Started dissembling a spare sm465 I've been moving around for the past 9 years...

Used the side bolt holes on the case and mounted it on an engine hoist, which seems to help hold it steady. But dang, it's a heavy bitch! Especially compared to the cruiser 3spd cases I've been rebuilding.

With all the tools I've acquired, I still don't have the correct puller for the countershaft roller bearing. HF should have something that will work.

Once i get it all taken apart I'll drill and tape the output shaft for the Orion case.

Pics tomorrow.
 
I got the throwout bearing assembled, my buddies Dad build engines for a living and he offered to press it on so it is perfect.
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I do want the arm on the passenger side correct?
 
My 77 40 is on the pass. side...???
 
Pass side is correct. Eric's pulling your leg :D
 
ratted out in less then a minute, tough crowd. but, a good thing. I went out to help Garrett in the garage next thing i know it was almost 1am and ended up going to bed. :)

i couldn't resist. :cool:
 
Anderson, put some grease on the throw out bearing where it rides on the transmission nose, and where the clutch fork rides on the throw out bearing bracket, under the clips.

Def needs some grease up in there.
 
Also - be sure to fill that cavity / void inside of the hub with grease. If not it may squeal and would be a bitch to get to once installed...don’t ask me how I know.

Anderson, put some grease on the throw out bearing where it rides on the transmission nose, and where the clutch fork rides on the throw out bearing bracket, under the clips.

Def needs some grease up in there.

@40LandCruising youve been reminded twice! No excuses!! :D
 

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