Turn your sf axle into a ff (1 Viewer)

[Fast Eddy]

A fabricated housing using a Hi9, ARB'ed, 4.86, center section and 35-spline 300M CTM axle shafts to 300M CTM drive slugs.

Just works.

It had better, for what it would cost.

Does anyone have any pics of the nitro gear shafts? Do they have the seal surface? How much do they cost?

When Bobby made my custom shaft he welded a collar and machined it down to match where the seal goes on the fzj80 axle. It's double-splined and uses one of his chromo drive flanges, which is drilled so you can mod the hub with four additional dowels. It turned out really nice and was less than $300, full-custom length including the seal surface, the flange, 2-day turnaround and shipping.

 

[chicago]

Yes sir!

Why do you think the hub studs wouldn't be strong enough??
Seems their biggest function would be to hold the axles and flanges in and wouldn't really have that much stress on em??
Unless they got tagged on the rocks...

 

[Poser]

Why do you think the hub studs wouldn't be strong enough??
Seems their biggest function would be to hold the axles and flanges in and wouldn't really have that much stress on em??
Unless they got tagged on the rocks...

You can read for days on this topic as to why that design is not something to use in a big tire, big engine, heavy vehicle.

Yes there are people who have installed larger studs and more dowels and have them "work". Hell, even Toyota 'upgraded' the design to larger studs/hardware and dowels post 1997.

 

[Poser]

It had better, for what it would cost.

Pinion is not in the dirt and rocks like the one in your 40.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Pinion is not in the dirt and rocks like the one in your 40.

I never said it wasn't worth it.

Mine is parked safely in the driveway. The roll bar is kinda rusty because the cover leaks a little. The pinion is safe from all dirt and rocks most of the time.

 

[RLMS]

We are building a custom centered rear. I will document the build this week. I can say we are going to do a seal insert piece towards the inner part of the housing to keep the gear oil further towards the chunk. We are going to use bobby custom length inner front shafts and drive flanges. as well as chromoly spindles and trail gear studs for the spindle mounting.

 

[Poser]

We are building a custom centered rear. I will document the build this week. I can say we are going to do a seal insert piece towards the inner part of the housing to keep the gear oil further towards the chunk. We are going to use bobby custom length inner front shafts and drive flanges. as well as chromoly spindles and trail gear studs for the spindle mounting.

Look forward to the thread.

 

[chicago]

You can read for days on this topic as to why that design is not something to use in a big tire, big engine, heavy vehicle.

Yes there are people who have installed larger studs and more dowels and have them "work". Hell, even Toyota 'upgraded' the design to larger studs/hardware and dowels post 1997.

So is shearing of the studs the failure then, or is it progressive fatigue and then break??

 

[QuackAxel]

ok some one just come out and tell us why it isnt a good setup and why not!? enough beatin around the bush here.

im talkin to you poser!

 

[QuackAxel]

^^ im sure its progressive fatigue.

 

[RLMS]

well here goes, we are starting with a ruff stuff housing, new chromoly spindles, new studs, 84 mini rotors and calipers, new washers and nuts. And of coarse new bearings and seals from curt@cruiseroutfitters. We are also using solid axle wheel bearing hubs from a disc brake housing.

First we started with a centered ruff stuff housing and ruff stuff full float flanges. Our objective is to be 62-63" WMS


I bolted the spindle and flange together with the hub before I welded the flanges. I tacked the flange on with the pinion set to 9* up and 12* down on the flanges to keep the calipers up out of harm. I Have found that the weld on the inside must not protrude into the back side of the spindle, so we have about I/8" worth of meat on the tube to flange surface. I will Tig weld this so we keep a smooth and strong weld in this area on final assembly.

Justin

 

[RLMS]

well its upside down but you get the point


Justin

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Looking slick Justin!

Would a 45 degree bevel on both the axle and the flange provide a way to have full engagement of the axle tube and flange yet allow enough recess to have a solid weld without interfering with the spindle?

 

[mookie]

Does anyone know of a seal insert that will work in a factory LC housing?

 

[mookie]

I'm thinking that those axles bolt right onto the hubs where the locking hubs would go, using the cone washers and studs out of the hubs??? Those studs on the hubs are pretty small...... Not sure how strong that would be. I guess if its strong enough for the front it's good enough for the rear right?

Think i would forego the cone washers and studs and just drill and tap the hub for a max size and number of grade eight bolts, kinda like a 14b axle shaft has

 

[RLMS]

Looking slick Justin!

Would a 45 degree bevel on both the axle and the flange provide a way to have full engagement of the axle tube and flange yet allow enough recess to have a solid weld without interfering with the spindle?

Kurt, a bevel would, I just want as muck meat on the tube as possible to keep the flange as square on the housing as possible. They can make the flange a press fit, so ensuring a good fit and staying square was my plan

Justin

 

[RLMS]

Does anyone know of a seal insert that will work in a factory LC housing?

I have never seen one, however we are doing the same thing with a factory housing for another customer. a seal insert on a factory housing will be just a little tricky, due to them not being perfectly round, They are about 20 thous. out/ oval.

We are going to figure something out for both housings. Ill keep you posted on what we come up with.

The other thing that has to happen is the bronze bushings have to be removed, out of the spindles; they will lock up to the shafts. Brian at diamond figured that one out a long time ago.


Justin

 

[Tigerstripe40]

I have never seen one, however we are doing the same thing with a factory housing for another customer. a seal insert on a factory housing will be just a little tricky, due to them not being perfectly round, They are about 20 thous. out/ oval.

We are going to figure something out for both housings. Ill keep you posted on what we come up with.

The other thing that has to happen is the bronze bushings have to be removed, out of the spindles; they will lock up to the shafts. Brian at diamond figured that one out a long time ago.


Justin

Hmm.
After removing the bushing from the spindle, would it be possible to press in an axle seal like what is used on the front, or is the diameter of the bushing larger?

Also, what about the possibility of using a bearing 'pocket' like what is used on the ford 9" and then use a unit bearing? Could a 'Cruiser diff have the side gears broached or otherwise modified for a 35 spline shaft? My thought is that the place the side gears are pressed onto the diff might have to be machined out and then there wouldn't be much left and make that a weak point, but I figured I'd ask jsut to be clear.

 

[handcannon]

I don't remember having seen any mention of what this does to the space WMS (wheel mounting surface) to WMS? I know it can make a difference if the hubs are FJ40/60 as compared to IFS hubs, but what are the measurements?

Don

 

[RLMS]

Hmm.
After removing the bushing from the spindle, would it be possible to press in an axle seal like what is used on the front, or is the diameter of the bushing larger?

Also, what about the possibility of using a bearing 'pocket' like what is used on the ford 9" and then use a unit bearing? Could a 'Cruiser diff have the side gears broached or otherwise modified for a 35 spline shaft? My thought is that the place the side gears are pressed onto the diff might have to be machined out and then there wouldn't be much left and make that a weak point, but I figured I'd ask jsut to be clear.

We are in the process of finding the best way to seal the shaft, the bushing we never took out, we actually used new chromoly spindles. they don't have bushings in them so, it was easy.

Justin