turbo to 1HZ

[giacomo]

There is plenty of 105 with the 1HZ in Australia. Only real problem is the R151 gear box and front diff

Hi roscoFJ73,thank you for your reply.

but wich are the problems to R151 and front diff ?

and for my question ?

 

[crushers]

mounting the pyro before or after is really irrelevant, it is to give you an idea of the temps in the exhaust. if you are watching the pyro so close that you need to know EXACTLY the temp then maybe change your driving habits.

when the engine rpm drop so does the oil pressure. if the EGT is 600F or below then it is safe to shut the engine down whether you are in the city or on the highway.

low oil pressure and cool exhaust temps will make the turbo last longer.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Hi roscoFJ73,thank you for your reply.

but wich are the problems to R151 and front diff ?

and for my question ?

The gearboxes strip output shaft splines and suffer early synchro and bearing wear.
There is lots of theories on the front diff.One of the big workshops in Melbourne claim the housing is weak. The cure is to fit an ARB locker

The klm depends on the driving and some never have a problem,most likely those who never go offroad

 

[BlueHZT60]

For the sake of discussion:

On my HZ-60, Safari Turbo I have some heat issues. A number of you know how long I've been slowly addressing things. My coolant overheats fairly quickly after EGT's hit 1100f for any length of time (mountain passes). Oil temp does not go over 210f - no oil cooler.

What if: remove water lines (that will keep radiator from overheating) Oops - I just answered my own question maybe: the heat is not coming off the turbo itself, but also from the head (combustion). Then add an oil cooler. I think all I'd be doing is shifting the heat, not eliminating it. Ideas?? Bob

 

[Tapage]

60 series had a tight front for huge rads .. I always try to keep my front clean lo allow more freash air can come .. Now with my turbo setup I increase the boost and leave the desel as is just to keep 100ºF under the magic number no matter what ..

 

[BlueHZT60]

Tapage: Right on target. I removed all obstructions except the ARB bumper itself, that solved a bunch of the heat issues (small things like: 1/4 inch mesh bug screen, winch controller). Toyota Red coolant reduced temps too. I'm now right on the edge - I can do most hills, with AC on, but need to slow down, or drop AC, or both.

It sucks being the patient, but fascinating learning (hint: I'm very slowly moving toward a hood scoop and intercooler). Bob

 

[jcolvin]

when the engine rpm drop so does the oil pressure. if the EGT is 600F or below then it is safe to shut the engine down whether you are in the city or on the highway.

Only if your pyro is post turbo! If your pyro is pre-turbo it will drop to 300-400 or so within a few seconds at idle, but your turbo might still be at 1000F if you're just coming off a hill climb. There's a fair amount of thermal inertia in that steel housing.

Personally if I am driving around town (and my pre-turbo egt's don't go above 600 doing this) I never bother to idle the truck to cool down the turbo. Only time I ever allow a few mins shutdown is coming off a steep hillclimb or right off the freeway.

 

[crushers]

hummm, interestng...never knew this. i will use the infra temp sensor to check this out as i find it hard to understand that the exhaust manifold being colder than the trubo housing...
interesting...

 

[BlueHZT60]

hummm, interestng...never knew this. i will use the infra temp sensor to check this out as i find it hard to understand that the exhaust manifold being colder than the trubo housing...
interesting...

Hmm, I can use my fancy 2-sensor remote BBQ thermo to play with this also. Perhaps on the Manifold-Pre turbo and on the exhaust where my Pyro is located (might as well verify it's accuracy). Bob

 

[Lantec]

Hmm, I can use my fancy 2-sensor remote BBQ thermo to play with this also. Perhaps on the Manifold-Pre turbo and on the exhaust where my Pyro is located (might as well verify it's accuracy). Bob

Would your BBQ temp probe take temps that high? I mean, 1200F (assuming you take it up that high) is like 648 Celcius, that's far beyond what you cook steak at lol

 

[BlueHZT60]

Would your BBQ temp probe take temps that high? I mean, 1200F (assuming you take it up that high) is like 648 Celcius, that's far beyond what you cook steak at lol

I'll have to check on that one before I melt my $39 gadget. Bob

 

[BiffS]

I think the Aviation world has it figured out. I'm going to order one of these for my PZ prior to turboing it.

Figure i'll run a probe pre and post turbo, same gauge.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/micro3egt.php

Plus they're temperature compensated!!

 

[Lantec]

Any word on the pre turbo and post turbo temps?

 

[jcolvin]

hummm, interestng...never knew this. i will use the infra temp sensor to check this out as i find it hard to understand that the exhaust manifold being colder than the trubo housing...
interesting...

I don't think the manifold is necessarily cooler than the turbo housing, it is more a question of efficiency of heat transfer I think. The EGT pre-turbo is giving you more of an indication of actual cylinder head exhaust temp, which drops *real quick* once you are at idle. Post turbo you are getting more of an indication of overall manifold/turbo housing temps, with considerable thermal inertia. What we are worried about on shutdown is the temp of the turbo bearings, which should be close to the temp of the housing I would think.

It would be fun to set up a double pyro system, with both pre and post gauges. Then we'd know for sure!

 

[giacomo]

Hi jcolvin,

I read you have a Milemarker hydraulic winch, it is with genuine power steering pump ?
problems ?
thank you.

Giacomo