turbo build
- Thread starter Dusty
- Start date
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rupert14 said:
Ohh my goodness that had me rollin so hard it hurt. Are you fellas for real? Dusty, my buddy, the offer still stands ... if you want pictures of parts lemme know ... I can prolly help ya find a fit within the hood!
ROFLMAO til it hurts
or
ROFLMAOTIH!!!
Dusty,
Thats one hot little high school ride
what a great thread.
Can't wait to see the end result.
Thats one hot little high school ride
what a great thread.
Can't wait to see the end result.
Danget dad, now we cant talk trash
Keep up the work. i thought i would show you my snow run, it was a good time. got stuck 4 times in about 20 miles. 10 minutes with a shovel and we were on our way, let me know when you want to go wheelin, lance
Keep up the work. i thought i would show you my snow run, it was a good time. got stuck 4 times in about 20 miles. 10 minutes with a shovel and we were on our way, let me know when you want to go wheelin, lance
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- Thread starter
- #45
turocruiser
is the manifold flange that bolts your Safari manifold to the head one long continuous piece of steel plate or is each exhaust port indepandent and not tied together. For example the oe header ports are not tied together by the flange.
You wouldn't have a pic of the manifold would ya?
Ya those guys really are my family
And the out of hood turbo placement realy helps minimize under hood temps
is the manifold flange that bolts your Safari manifold to the head one long continuous piece of steel plate or is each exhaust port indepandent and not tied together. For example the oe header ports are not tied together by the flange.
You wouldn't have a pic of the manifold would ya?
Ya those guys really are my family
And the out of hood turbo placement realy helps minimize under hood temps
Dusty said:
Hi Dusty, the manifold flange is two parts total however each port has its own independent section but if you look closely the sections themselves are connected by a thin section so its sort of "yes and no" to your question - anyway the main manifold is two parts total one for the front three cylinders, one for the rear three cylinders. Here is a purty pic, please excuse all the assorted oil drips here and there - this was prior to cleaning things up.
BTW - Its sorta hardto see but each tube has a really smooth radius to it on the outside and an even more radical radius inside, from the foto below it almost looks like some of the tubes are straight to the tee but they are not - just the angle of the camera - really slick how safari managed to make something so space efficient while avoiding dead end dumps to the manifold. HTH
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- Thread starter
- #47
thanks turbo
that joint that connects the 2 halves of the safari manifold is pretty slick. The fact that these manifold parts are made from steel and the block is of aluminum is a little scary considering how hot things get and how much thermal expansion must take place among these dissimilar metals on such a long head. As I took off the oe cast manifolds I noticed that outer bolt holes are considerably larger than the inner-and this is the case even though the oe manifold is a 2 piece design.
that joint that connects the 2 halves of the safari manifold is pretty slick. The fact that these manifold parts are made from steel and the block is of aluminum is a little scary considering how hot things get and how much thermal expansion must take place among these dissimilar metals on such a long head. As I took off the oe cast manifolds I noticed that outer bolt holes are considerably larger than the inner-and this is the case even though the oe manifold is a 2 piece design.
- Thread starter
- #48
got some more done
Placed a new thermastat and hoses.
moved the overflow bottle and bracket to just in front of the oe batery
Pretty much finished the manifold. Before I welded the 2 halves of the oe manifold together at the turbo flange i firt bolted both halves of the manifold securely to block and tacked everything well before removing the manifold to the bench (to my front yard) for weld up. But unfortunatly the manifold shifted enough in final weld to make fitment to the head bolts difficult. So went inside and cried for a while then went back out and cut apart the 2 manifolds-half day wasted. then I rewelded them together on the block (see pic). to prevent movement from happening again you will notice a small wedge I welded between the 2 manifold halves right at the head flange (see pic)
I am spending hours on prep and only minutes actually welding
Placed a new thermastat and hoses.
moved the overflow bottle and bracket to just in front of the oe batery
Pretty much finished the manifold. Before I welded the 2 halves of the oe manifold together at the turbo flange i firt bolted both halves of the manifold securely to block and tacked everything well before removing the manifold to the bench (to my front yard) for weld up. But unfortunatly the manifold shifted enough in final weld to make fitment to the head bolts difficult. So went inside and cried for a while then went back out and cut apart the 2 manifolds-half day wasted. then I rewelded them together on the block (see pic). to prevent movement from happening again you will notice a small wedge I welded between the 2 manifold halves right at the head flange (see pic)
I am spending hours on prep and only minutes actually welding
- Thread starter
- #52
those with forced induction:
The oe fuel pressure regulator has a port that goes to manifold vacum. As forced induction places positive pressure in the intake manifold instead of vacume, what do I do with the tube from the fuel pressure regulator that is suposed to go to vacume?
manifold is at the machine shop being surfaced
The oe fuel pressure regulator has a port that goes to manifold vacum. As forced induction places positive pressure in the intake manifold instead of vacume, what do I do with the tube from the fuel pressure regulator that is suposed to go to vacume?
manifold is at the machine shop being surfaced
semlin
curmudgeon
well i think the manifold will still suck in on vacuum lines or your egr system and brake assist is going to take a vacation too
Dusty said:
Dusty, I'll take a pic tomorrow; left my camera at work today.
- Thread starter
- #55
semlin you bring up a good pont on the vacume issue.
I know I need to run the egr to the air filter intake pipe before the turbo so the egr can have a vacume. When I look at the safari turbo istructions I dont see them rerouting any their vacume lines save the egr. the kazuma supercharger instructions http://www.trdusa.com/InstallManuals/00602-17620-501.pdf (page 16) dont reroute their vacume lines either but of corse the supercharger moves the throttle body out in front of the turbo so it and all its lines are still under vacume. note that the kazuma supercharger places the brake booster to in front of the supercharger to take advantage of vacume while I dont see the safari turbo doing so
so the question is (thats you turbocruiser): do I need to reroute the brake booster for this turbo? (does safari indeed do so?) besides the egr does safari reroute any of its vacume lines?
I know I need to run the egr to the air filter intake pipe before the turbo so the egr can have a vacume. When I look at the safari turbo istructions I dont see them rerouting any their vacume lines save the egr. the kazuma supercharger instructions http://www.trdusa.com/InstallManuals/00602-17620-501.pdf (page 16) dont reroute their vacume lines either but of corse the supercharger moves the throttle body out in front of the turbo so it and all its lines are still under vacume. note that the kazuma supercharger places the brake booster to in front of the supercharger to take advantage of vacume while I dont see the safari turbo doing so
so the question is (thats you turbocruiser): do I need to reroute the brake booster for this turbo? (does safari indeed do so?) besides the egr does safari reroute any of its vacume lines?
Dusty, the Safari setup doesn't move the fuel regulator vacuum line but that is where the boost is measured (at least that's the way turbocruiser's is set up). I don't think the brake booster comes into play since when you're developing boost you aren't likely to use your brakes - but that's a WAG on my part.
I think the biggest issue is the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line because it does go to positive pressure under boost because that's where I've measured it. This is where the BEGI piggyback regulator compensates for this.
I think the biggest issue is the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line because it does go to positive pressure under boost because that's where I've measured it. This is where the BEGI piggyback regulator compensates for this.
- Thread starter
- #57
thanks clown
but the safari system doesn't come with a BEGI regulator does it (which is an boost controlled rising rate regulator correct)? But the safari system does come with extra injectors and a piggyback. So I need a rising boost fuel pressure regulator correct? I will buy one tonight if needed-please keep feedback coming
but the safari system doesn't come with a BEGI regulator does it (which is an boost controlled rising rate regulator correct)? But the safari system does come with extra injectors and a piggyback. So I need a rising boost fuel pressure regulator correct? I will buy one tonight if needed-please keep feedback coming
nope, the safari just comes with what you see in the instructions. only the pre-1995 ones had the extra injectors in the cross over tube. I also don't know who is actually running the unichip that has been burned on a dyno or anything else like rising rate fuel pressure reg, etc.
my setup isn't completed yet due to work but I have the two injectors to be plumbed for one to come on as soon as boost is developed (~1 psi) then the other to come on as real boost is developed (~6 psi). The BEGI unit I have sitting on the bench along with the unichip. these will go in once I get time to dyno and burn the eprom at turbonetics. Luckily I live close enough to have this done by them. I'm hoping to have real results by summer, sorry I won't be much help to you before then.
my setup isn't completed yet due to work but I have the two injectors to be plumbed for one to come on as soon as boost is developed (~1 psi) then the other to come on as real boost is developed (~6 psi). The BEGI unit I have sitting on the bench along with the unichip. these will go in once I get time to dyno and burn the eprom at turbonetics. Luckily I live close enough to have this done by them. I'm hoping to have real results by summer, sorry I won't be much help to you before then.
- Thread starter
- #59
Thanks Clown
Your plethra of wonderfull posts on this forum have been extremely helpfull.
So in conclusion-ARE THESE STATEMENTS CORRECT?-please respond:
The oe fuel pressure regulator does not need to be modified, or changed in any way. I can leave it just how it is and the truck will run fine under booste. This being said I understand the truck could benefit from boost controlled fuel pressure regulation.
I am a little perplexed as to why the truck runs ok under boost with the oe fuel pressure regulator when the oe regulator is designed to increase pressure under vacume. By this logic boost should decrease fuel pressure.
WOULD IT BE OF BENEFIT TO PLUMB THE OE UNITS VACUME LINE INTO THE INTAKE FILTER TUBE WITH FORCED INDUCTION? this would offer some vacume as aposed to the booste the regulator will see if left in its oe posistion whilt turbo is installed.
Does anyone know what threads (pich and size) are on the oe fuel pressure regulator? this would be good to know as there are aftermarket booste controlled regulators that screw in to replacements factory regulators in many import aplications.
How does th BEGI plump in? do you remove the oe regulator? what screws in to replace it?
Your plethra of wonderfull posts on this forum have been extremely helpfull.
So in conclusion-ARE THESE STATEMENTS CORRECT?-please respond:
The oe fuel pressure regulator does not need to be modified, or changed in any way. I can leave it just how it is and the truck will run fine under booste. This being said I understand the truck could benefit from boost controlled fuel pressure regulation.
I am a little perplexed as to why the truck runs ok under boost with the oe fuel pressure regulator when the oe regulator is designed to increase pressure under vacume. By this logic boost should decrease fuel pressure.
WOULD IT BE OF BENEFIT TO PLUMB THE OE UNITS VACUME LINE INTO THE INTAKE FILTER TUBE WITH FORCED INDUCTION? this would offer some vacume as aposed to the booste the regulator will see if left in its oe posistion whilt turbo is installed.
Does anyone know what threads (pich and size) are on the oe fuel pressure regulator? this would be good to know as there are aftermarket booste controlled regulators that screw in to replacements factory regulators in many import aplications.
How does th BEGI plump in? do you remove the oe regulator? what screws in to replace it?
Dusty said:
It depends on where it is plumbed in to the intake. It's quite possible that it is using a ventury type setup in the manufold. This creates vacuum is relationship to how fast the air moves across it. In this setup even under a boost situation, the air moving across it will create a vacuum.
It's quite common on equipment to use this same effect. What is done is compressed air is used to create tha air flow with a ventury device to create vacuum.
If the vacuum tube for the regulator is pre throttle plates then I'd suspect a ventury setup as vacuum is only created when the throttle plate is closed, when open it's air flow and minimal vacuum.
