turbo build

[ElJefe]

I think that Landtank is correct... the AFAIK the fuel pressure reg is plumbed into full manifold vacuum like the Brake booster and the EGR. This means that at idle you would be at max vacuum because the throttle plates are closed. At WOT you would be at minimum vacuum. In the reg there is a spring that presses on a diaphram and the vacuum pulls on the same diaphram. As the Vacuum decreases, the fuel pressure increases because the vacuum pulls less against the diaphram in the regulator. With less vacuum, the force from the spring on the diaphram is greater... this requires more fuel pressure get past the regulator into the return line. The standard fuel pressure reg **should** provide even more fuel pressure as the manifold pressure goes positive.

As far as the injectors go... I reread and have no idea what year your cruiser is. If you have a 95-97 MAF setup, you should be OK as the MAF meter measures actual air mass, and **should** adjust the mixture correctly up to the max flow rate of the injectors. The TRD system is a bolt on with no computer mods AFAIK, so this leads me to believe that the computer/injectors on a 95-97 are capable of running a forced induction engine of 300hp/400ftlb regardless of whether it is a TRD SC or a homegrown turbo. The older speed density flapper valve systems OTOH need the extra injectors because the systems cannot measure the increased flow correctly without a reprogrammed chip.

 

[semlin]

He has no pair valve so it's not a 93-94.

if you remove the vacuum line on the fuel pump regulator at idle the revs go up so the vacuum decreases fuel flow theory sounds right.

the fpr is a 17mm nut over a flanged pipe attaching to the fuel rail stud. i think the threads are regular 1.25mm course. I have a used one at home so i can check tonight.

as an option to the get more gas in there via extra injector/ rising rate fuel regulator/supra fuel pump approach you can go with Dan's alcohol injection approach to keep it from leaning out. His does the job for a 93 running more boost then I would guess dusty will run. I'm sure Dan would share the details.

 

[gnx7]

When I was into Buick GN's (turbo V6) many guys would run 7th and even 8th injectors to get more fuel into the motor. While it certainly didn't distribue fuel perfectly to each cylinder it did a good enough job.

Another idea would be to use methanol which is something like 130 octane and you wouldn't have any worries about having not enough octane. You probably could run 87 octane with alchy/meth injection for the small gains you seek with no problems. The alchy/meth injection comes on only under boost which is activated by a Hobbs switch (vacuum activated relay essentially) when you need the additional octane.

I'm not trying to complicate things.. just pushing around ideas.

Also you need an EGT probe in that exhaust manifold close to the turbine inlet. I would do a threaded bung welded on there for the probe.

I have a used 30/30 boost/vac guage and EGT probe/guage from Westach (Wesberg Manufacturing) I used in my Buick GN RX-7 conversions. The EGT probe is a clamp on style but works great as you drill a hole and this will seat itself and not create any leaks. You would read the EGT guage at WOT when at the top of 3rd gear near max RPM which is essentially max engine load. This tells you whether you are lean/rich. You can crank up the fuel pressure if you are lean which should help as long as it is a rising rate style regulator which compensates and add fuel PSI under boost.

You can have the pair for $55 shipped. Merry Xmas. PM me about it.

-Mark

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Dusty,
Great work man. Can't wait for the end result.

What kind of piping are you using for runners 2,3,4 and 5? Looks like a formed peice of metal. Is it off the shelf?

 

[Dusty]

Landtank, Eljefe, Semlin: You guys are great. This project would be impossible without all the help. Thanks for clearing up the fuel pressure regulation thing-I will sleep much better tonight

Damn it Mark-where was this offer a week ago. I already have purchased an egt and a boost guage at over $150. I still love ya

Kklubins-those tee's for said runners are just plain old sc40 weld els available at your better plumbing store ($20+ bucks a pop)

I finally got the header back today from machine shop-had to take it back for a refinish-perfect now.

I have made a new fitting for the heater return (on the thermostat) so I can get rid of that metal hose thing. I made a new o2 sensor fitting to weld on the new exhaust. I have finished match porting 3 of the runners. Im finishing a new flange to bolt the new downpipe to the 2nd cat-kinda tricky with the shelp in the flange.

I have to work a 32 hour shift tomorow and a 24 hour shift on sun But sat I will bust my ass and hopefully at leaste get the downpipe done and possibly some of intercooler ducting

Next question: I have an narrow band cheepy a/f ratio guage. one of its 3 wires (one wire goes to ground and 1 to 12v) is supposed to be saldered into the o2 sensor lambda wire. Which wire is this? my o2 sensor has 4 wires. Is the labda wire the white wire?

 

[elmariachi]

Someone can back me up here but I believe on a Toyota 4-wire sensor, the two blacks are heater 12V and heater ground, the white is earth and the blue is your signal to ECU wire (the one you need).

 

[Dusty]

Ya come on someone back him up. I brought my sader gun and supplies to work so I can do the job when I get a free minute

 

[elmariachi]

OEM wiring manual for 1997 says on O2 sensor #1, blue is OX signal and on #2 white is OX signal. Both of these are the signals to the ECM.

 

[Rainy Day FZJ]

I came in to this a day late as usual, from what I understand you are going to plumb all of you vac lines pre turbo at the throttle body? similar to the trd supercharger? or are you adding the snail pre MAF and pre throttle body. Sounds like you are on the correct tract no matter what. I went with the blower for ease of down time and the known.. you could always run a 1-wire o2 sensor for your meter, very cheep.

 

[Dusty]

excellent. just confirm one thing. the o2 sensor closest to the engine is the #1 sensor correct?-this is important as the closest sensor has both a blue and white wire


Now for the issue of EGR: with a turbo manifold there is more exhaust back pressure. This will result in more EGR flow. This is not good as it wastes exhaust gasses that could be used for making boost and, as shared on this forum by others, the EGR probably isn't helping the head gasket issue. So what to do about it?

the oe non-turbo 4.5L 1fzfe places the EGR port aprox 2 inches lateral and adjacent to the 6th exhaust port on the head. There is a small 1/2 inch semi-cylinder recess machined into the oe exhaust manifold flange to connect the 6th exhaust port to the EGR port. I have not yet used my air grinder to make a similar recess in my turbo flange. So you might say just fawk it and dont connect your 6th exhaust to your EGR. The problem is that the expensive toyota stainless gasket ($50) has been made to accomidate the EGR port-ie the gasket swings wide to go aroung the egr port. So unless there is some killer gasket out there that does not include the egr we must adress the problem (I dont want to run without a gasket and Im not going hunting for a diff gasket/custom gasket) Also I move back to california this summer and need this cruiser to pass smog-i immagine the EGR is needed for this. (I can probably get her past inspection with this turbo without a problem-I knows the right people)

I see three options:

1. Port the turbo flange just like the oe non turbo flange and deal with it-I dont like this option. Is this the way safari does it?

2. dont machine any recess into my turbo flange. This leaves that 1/32-1/16 inch gap between the 6th port and the egr port. WOULD THIS BE ENOUGH FOR THE EGR TO Work? AND WOULD THIS CAUSE THERMAL ISSUES-ieburm the head somehow?


3. just grind a smaller recess in the turbo flange from the 6th port to the egr port instead of the larger 1/2 cylinder recess on the oe non-turbo manifold. I could grind the recess the same width as the oe manifold so as to carry the egr port all the way to the gasket but just keep it shallow to limit flow. for example I could make the recess 1/2" wide by only 1/8" deep. I think this may be the best option but risks the port getting plugged by carbon build up.

 

[Dusty]

rainy day
the only vac line I plan on running pre turbo is the PCV. If safari leaves the rest of the vac lines post turbo then so am I. I do like the idea of placing the throttle body preturbo or at least placing the MAF post turbo but safari doesn't do that I I hate being the first guy to do stuff.

A 1 wire 02 sensor is cheap but then I have to bung it in and its even cheaper to sader into the factory o2 sensor (this wont screw up the signal will it?)

 

[semlin]

Now for the issue of EGR: with a turbo manifold there is more exhaust back pressure. This will result in more EGR flow. This is not good as it wastes exhaust gasses that could be used for making boost and, as shared on this forum by others, the EGR probably isn't helping the head gasket issue. So what to do about it?

the oe non-turbo 4.5L 1fzfe places the EGR port aprox 2 inches lateral and adjacent to the 6th exhaust port on the head. There is a small 1/2 inch semi-cylinder recess machined into the oe exhaust manifold flange to connect the 6th exhaust port to the EGR port. I have not yet used my air grinder to make a similar recess in my turbo flange. So you might say just fawk it and dont connect your 6th exhaust to your EGR. The problem is that the expensive toyota stainless gasket ($50) has been made to accomidate the EGR port-ie the gasket swings wide to go aroung the egr port. So unless there is some killer gasket out there that does not include the egr we must adress the problem (I dont want to run without a gasket and Im not going hunting for a diff gasket/custom gasket) Also I move back to california this summer and need this cruiser to pass smog-i immagine the EGR is needed for this. (I can probably get her past inspection with this turbo without a problem-I knows the right people)

I see three options:

1. Port the turbo flange just like the oe non turbo flange and deal with it-I dont like this option. Is this the way safari does it?

2. dont machine any recess into my turbo flange. This leaves that 1/32-1/16 inch gap between the 6th port and the egr port. WOULD THIS BE ENOUGH FOR THE EGR TO Work? AND WOULD THIS CAUSE THERMAL ISSUES-ieburm the head somehow?


3. just grind a smaller recess in the turbo flange from the 6th port to the egr port instead of the larger 1/2 cylinder recess on the oe non-turbo manifold. I could grind the recess the same width as the oe manifold so as to carry the egr port all the way to the gasket but just keep it shallow to limit flow. for example I could make the recess 1/2" wide by only 1/8" deep. I think this may be the best option but risks the port getting plugged by carbon build up.

if you don't have enough exhaust flow throught the egr system then you could have problems passing a smog test especially if your cats are on their way out.

As long as your flange is strong enough, I would duplicate oem. unless the egr valve is open, you only lose exhaust flow when the egr valve is open and for the half second it takes for the exhaust pressure to equalize in the egr pipe up to the valve. if you want to desmog for do time trials, just block all the vacuum lines to the egr and it won't open.

incidentily, it is unclear to me whether the ecu can adjust for the loss of egr flow it expects. There has been speculation that a blocked egr will make an engine run lean and hot. not a good idea with a turbo.

 

[Dusty]

thanks again Semlin- Your explaination makes sense. I will make the recess nice and open like Mr. T meant it to be.

I Still need conformation of the o2 sensor

 

[Dusty]

more done

pictures
I need to get more pics to describe what I got done yesterday. It took several hours to finish port the manifold-mu round holes in the manifold flange had to meet the oval ports on the cruiser head.

I had to prep the turbine and weld a new 4" v-band flange to it. the weld is on the inside but before I welded it I tacked the outside all theway around and clamped the 2 vband flanges together before weldup. The flange on the downpipe was likewise clamped to its newly welded flange on the turbine before I welded the downpipe to the flande. Again no warpage. These flanges make downpipe removal and build so easy.

I used a 4' downpipe and flange because the turbine outlet is about 3 1/2 and I needed room for weld and didn't want the weld to obstruct flow-ill get another pic soon. the 4" pipe reduces to 3" in the pic. This will reduce to 2 1/2" before it connects to the stainless flex coupler that will connect to the new flange you see in pic 3 that will bring the downpipe to the oe 2nd cat. I made a new o2 sensor bracket to be welded to the downpipe. I will use the same old toyota o2 sensor.

The final pic is of the newly fabbed flange that all allows my downpipe to connect to the toyota 2nd cat and remainder of exhaust. This took some time as I had to weld a 1/8 ring to the flange to replicate the step in the toyota flange that accomidates the toyota donut gasket. Ill get more pics up

 

[elmariachi]

Sensor #1 is always first in line and closest to engine.

 

[Dusty]

thanks for the sensor help

 

[turbocruiser]

Dusty, lookin good man!!!

Sorry about the shots I said I would take; my wife went to visit her family and took the camera with her. Really sucks cause I need it now for about six separate projects. Anyway, Clown alluded to the setup and I'll try to attach an old shot taken not of that exact area but pretty close to it, when I get the cam back, I'll take wahatever shots you need. Again, the build's looking good man.

If you look at the pic there is simply a "Y" adaptor running off the FPR and going to both its regular spot and the vacuum gauge's vacuum line (clear plastic tube). Hope that answers the question?

 

[Dusty]

more done

 

[Dusty]

closer

 

[Dusty]

downpipe was kinda fun.
Wastegate integration less fun.

feeling close now