turbo build

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Wow Dusty, Very Impressive Man!

(Cheering you on from the sidelines!) :cheers:
 
little more

new O2 sensor flange

EGT bung

support hanger for downpipe
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Is your AC return line going to clear your exhaust? And if it does, are you concerned about the effects of the added heat in that area? I know its wrapped in some heat-resistant material but I wonder if that's enough passing that close to the turbo.
 
No the oe AC will not clear the downpipe. note that the ac line comes out of firewall plenty high enough but then there is an elboe that carries the ac pipe down and toward the motor placing it right next to the downpipe. note that the downpipe comes within 3/8" OF THE FIREWALL. I will need to have a custom ac line made from the firewall to the the ac compressor. I have already spoken to a local guy who will make a new line
 
Again Dusty, wow, you have learned a lot since high school! :D :flipoff2: :D

Looks great. :cheers:
 
Wasted Money

WOW, Things are looking really good! :) We sure wasted a lot of money sending you to medical school. Maybe a joint venture in a turbo kit company???
Doctor Turbo... an endoscope could be a dual purpose tool. Handy for checking internal weld joints and anual exams for patients over 50.:o

Keep up the good work.
DAD
 
Dusty's Dad said:
WOW, Things are looking really good! :) We sure wasted a lot of money sending you to medical school. Maybe a joint venture in a turbo kit company???
Doctor Turbo... an endoscope could be a dual purpose tool. Handy for checking internal weld joints and anual exams for patients over 50.:o

Keep up the good work.
DAD


That's too funny! I think i've seen it all now, the whole family has been on MUD raggin' ol' Dusty. I guess grandma will be the next to stop in. :grinpimp:

Seriously though, Dusty, you are doing one heck of a good job pioneering something like this.
 
Isn't it amazing how that jeep fell off the turnip truck and landed on all fours?

I used to think of my 80 as a jeep recovery vehicle, then I realized they are disposable and mostly not worth recovering...
 
real close now

Note the new heater hose return fitting I had to make

Boost, egt, and a/f ratio gauges--thats as pretty as they will get till the cruiser proves she wont be burning to ground as a result of this project

And I have asked several Gastroenterologists and pulmonologists working at the hospital if I could have their old endoscopes...When I tell them I would like to use the instrument to view my valves through the spark plug hole they usually laugh untill they see I am serious at which point they get this puzzled look on their face and request further details. I explain that the high resolution and dexterity of the scope could offer a rare glimpse of the internal workings of an engine--a view that is usually obtainable only after a lengthy dissasembly. The room usually goes silent for a momment as the physician tries to find some response to the absolute babble I have just relayed. Finding no reply the Doctor grasps the buttock with greater resolve and drives the scope ever deeper into some poor sedated fools colon; a universe of bowel and s***testry just waiting for grand exploration....
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whereexactly are you routing the heater return hose? you might have gotten away with using the 93-94 heater hose return fitting or just cutting up a 95-97?
 
Semlin
I am routing the heater hose as shown in the pic. I almost just cut the oe metal heater tube up to use the flange as you suggested but decided to make a new piece as shown. I almost cut the oe o2 bung off the oe downpipe just as I almost cut the oe downpipe flange (to cat) off to use that. Instead I fabbed all the parts. I would have saved some time to cut off oe pieces but if I need to return the truck back to naturally aspirated I will be glad I didn't cut everything up.
 
ok i see it now. posting late at night i guess. i'm impressed that you would see fabbing a flange as easier than cutting a part. for future reference for others the 93-94 hose is split into two sections with a rubber middle to get around the pair valve. at the very least you would only need to buy the front flange/pipe instead of the whole unit on a 95-97 to do what dusty did the easy way.

by the way, it looks great...
 
just took her out for a 15 min run with forced induction. Not much of a test as I didn't want to push it late at night but there is undoubtedly a new animal under the hood. It doesn't seem to realy hit till about 2000 rpms. It is not noisy unless you get into it (havn't been past 3500 rpms). and cruising at 75mph you wouldn't know it is there. The computer didn't like the turbo for the first 5 min or so but she was running better when I parked her. Ill talk more about it later
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Two words .

Holy crap!! :eek: :eek:


:beer: :beer:



TY
 
dusty, it looks great but a couple of questions...
looks like you have the intercooler mounted in front of the tranny cooler. does the grill still fit?

looks like the intercooler ducting below the PS headlight prevents putting the indicator light back in?

you should put a air scoop over the intake filter like LX_Treme did?

how much boost did you develop?

what did you do about fuel management?

great job man, looks like a lot of work :hillbilly:
 
That looks great Dusty. What is this turbo from again? What hp or cfm is it rated at?

Can't wait to see when you have some better results. It is nice to see that a guy working full time can create a turbo kit like this in about a month in his spare time.... and there are professional companies that can't even release one in over a year with more employess/time/$$$/knowledge. ;p

How much do you think you have into this setup total in parts only? $1K?
 
GNX7
The turbo is a used Garrett (looks like newly rebuilt) to4e turbocharger. It has a 46 trim compressor with a .7 a/r compressor with 4" inlet. The turbine is a P trim in a .84 ar t4 flanged housing. (i looked the part number up online and this turbo is listed for a ford turbodiesel)
I probably have about $1000 in this but I have $150-$200 in stuff I didn't need like wrong size couplers, excessive intercooling ducting, impropper fittings, etc. I could build it again for hundreds less in 1/4 the time.
-intercooler $140
-used turbo $140
-aluminized tubing-2.25" charge ducting, 3"intake ducting, 4" downpipe-3" downpipe-2.5" downpipe + transition fittings...around $250
-heat management fabrics $150
-manifold weld ells- around $120
-egt, a/f ratio/ boost gauge around $180
-toyota manifold gaskets around $50
-quality fastners around $75
-wastegate $75
-good gaskets for wastegate $20
-various fitings and hose $100
-there is probably $250 in the oil cooler from a prior build
-accelerating up the hill this morning passing a surprised f150----priceless

Clown
-I will put the grill back on soon-it sits out about an extra 2 inches
-the indicator lights are gone--remember i removed them with my front bumper build and put the indicator in the corner light-without my front bumper the ducting would have been very difficult
-im thinking about making a hole in the hood by I went to extreme lengths to minimize underhood heat and keep it in the exhaust--time will show
-right now the boost gauge is showing about 5 lbs boost. The external wastegate is adjustable and I will soon get a cheap ($25) adjustable actuator to play with boost. But first i need the supra fuel pump and rising boost fuel pressure regulator before I can realy see what she can do. im still going easy on her. i have to hook up the red wire on my a/f ratio so I can better observe. I also want a BOV
-yes it was a lot of work but man it feels good
-My man will have my custom a/c line ready this afternoon (only $35)

I actually took my luch hour today to drive it around. The power is linear and smooth comming at about 1800-2000 rpms building strong. It feels so cool to gas it at 40mph and pull away hard without a downshift. I don't have another forced induction cruiser to compare to but I am more than satisfied. I was afraid that it would make a lot of noise and piss off my wife but such is not the case-you can hear an obvious but subtle and not obnoxious whine under accelerating boost but its not as bad as I worried.

The real question now is one of durability--are my manifold welds legit, is the wastegate integrated such to prevent cracking. If not its back to the drawing board---but if they hold you can all come over for a turbo build weekend
 

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