Tundra wheels with spacers

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SJRMOTORSPORTS

SJRMOTORSPORTS

Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
4
Hey guys, new to the forum. I just purchased a 1997 FJ80 a couple months. I have a set of 20"x9.5" BBS wheels I had on my 2000 Tundra that I tried to put on the FJ80. I purchased 1.5" spacer from spidertrax. They work on the front wheels but not on the rear. Is it ok to do a 2" spacer in the rear with the 1.5" on the front? Has anybody else had this problem and if so, what was the fix. Thanks in advance
 
I've seen a few run offset spacers but not usually on a street dedicated or dd rig. I think my preference would be return or sell the 1.5" and go 2 all the way around. What would not work in the rear? Any pics or descriptions to help folks help you. Do you know the backspacing or offset? I'd guess the rim or spokes were hitting caliper?

I think biaggi and a couple others have mounted 20" toyo rims. Maybe search his posts or drop him a pm. (However rig has been up for sale and not sure f he's still around)
 
The wheels are 20x9.5 FJ Cruiser wheels. The hub bore on the rims is only about 3/4" deep that's why I had to use spacers. With the spacers mounted on the front I had about a 1/2 inch of hub left sticking out and the wheels mounted right up. On the rear after mounting the spacer there was still about 1" of hub left and the wheels wouldn't fit.

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I dont think 2" out back will be noticeable compared to the front...2" up front seems like you increase the chance to run into problems with rubbing while turning.
 
Don't forget about back spacing though. 2" spacer on a wheel with 1" more back spacing only pushes wheel out 1"

So it's the bore that's too small??
Woulda thought all toyotas were same mm bore and fit over the hubs. 104???? Some folks have taken em to machine shop and opened up the bore to match hubs.

You are not just trying to make hubs flush are you. It's ok to have hub protruding from the wheel if it mounts up flush. It may just prevent runnin the ctr caps.

Maybe @Golgo13 could share some knowledge
 
Thought it was 108mm

Probably not DD worthy but aren't crawlers designed with a tapered rear end?
 
If you are going to run 2" wheel spacers make sure you pull the stock studs and upgrade the studs. While backspacing and spacers don't matter to wheel bearings if the center of the tire is in the right spot, it does matter to studs.
 
retrofive said:
Thought it was 108mm

Probably not DD worthy but aren't crawlers designed with a tapered rear end?
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Very well could be. Not sure exactly. Golgo quoted 106mm and I'm going with that. :D Though the links below state 108 and 110 lol

And yep n sure are. At least my 1:10 is haha


Few reads .... Those rims may have a retainer lip? That can be machined off like the trail edition luke111 ran (with spacers vs machining)

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-trail-edition-wheels.749021/#post-8629410

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/20-rims-35-rubber.525839/page-3#post-7100218
 
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Those wheels are BBS RD284. They are a 20x9.5 with 20mm offset.

Fun tidbit: BBS calls offset as "ET." ET is short for the German "Einpresstiefe" which translates to "Insertion Depth." (Something @NLXTACY enjoys a LOT)

I'm also going to let slide the fact that installing 20" wheels on a vehicle designed around 16" wheels isn't good for the suspension, steering system and ride quality. Handling might feel a little better, but it is much more harsh all around.

I digress...

Just from looking at the front of the wheel, I can tell you they won't fit over the hub(which is 106mm OD). I wouldn't take them to a machine shop to open them up because if they machine too far, they will likely intersect with the holes for the lug nuts. This will weaken the wheel (and it will looks like @$$. PLUS those center caps won't fit anymore if you go all the way.

The hubs of the 2000 Tundra and the FJ Cruiser are very similar. They are a semi-floating variant with real stubby protrusions for centering the wheels. Just about any wheel would fit on them. The 20mm offset is almost correct and wouldn't cause much issue. The reason the wheels don't fit on the rear is because the hub is too long.

The OE wheel is 16x8 with 0mm offset and a 106mm center bore(all the way through to fit over the hub).

1.5" is 38.1mm so adding the 1.5" spacer to a wheel with a 20mm offset only pushes the wheel out 18.1mm or ~23/32" widening track width by 36.2mm

2" is 50.8mm so adding the 2" spacer to a wheel with 20mm offset pushes the wheel out 30.8mm or ~1 7/32" widening the track width by 61.6mm

Both of these add to the stress on the hub and trunion bearings(as well as the steering system).

This gives a track width difference of 25.4mm(of course, since that is the proposed difference between the front and rear spacers).

Track width differences between front and rear are usually not more than 10mm. I don't see any real harm other than what was already mentioned. The turning radius will be bigger. The slight stability decrease due to the track width differences are probably washed out by the increased track width.

Also, @scottryana brings up a good point.
scottryana said:
If you are going to run 2" wheel spacers make sure you pull the stock studs and upgrade the studs. While backspacing and spacers don't matter to wheel bearings if the center of the tire is in the right spot, it does matter to studs.
Click to expand...
 
I know, I know! 20's????? Hey, I wanted to throw a OME lift, roof rack, and 37's on the truck, but unfortunately my wife has taken the truck over! She has a new Ecoboost Ford Fusion and she refuses to drive it. (At least until gas prices go up again) She wanted something that "Looked newer, Rode better, and wasn't loud", that's why I went with the 20's. Nice Breakdown Golgo13! I figured the difference in track width wouldn't be a HUGE deal.... I remember on my K5 the front track seemed way wider than the rear. Do you guys have a place in mind for new wheel studs or will just any Auto parts house will work?

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You can bore the wheels to slide completely over the FF hub and eliminate spacers. Just be careful not to remove the oem OD on the inner wheel that indexes with axle hub to center the wheel. I did this on a set of 18" TRD/BBS wheels. Mine have 10ET and fit great, not sure if 20ET would be an issue.

You can also bore the face of the wheel to accept the oem wheel cover, but I was to lazy to do this...

IMG_0425 copy.jpg IMG_0463 copy.jpg
 
1FZj80 said:
You can bore the wheels to slide completely over the FF hub and eliminate spacers. Just be careful not to remove the oem OD on the inner wheel that indexes with axle hub to center the wheel. I did this on a set of 18" TRD/BBS wheels. Mine have 10ET and fit great, not sure if 20ET would be an issue.

You can also bore the face of the wheel to accept the oem wheel cover, but I was to lazy to do this...

View attachment 1043305 View attachment 1043306
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s***, that looks pretty damn good.
 
1FZj80 said:
You can bore the wheels to slide completely over the FF hub and eliminate spacers. Just be careful not to remove the oem OD on the inner wheel that indexes with axle hub to center the wheel. I did this on a set of 18" TRD/BBS wheels. Mine have 10ET and fit great, not sure if 20ET would be an issue.

You can also bore the face of the wheel to accept the oem wheel cover, but I was to lazy to do this...

View attachment 1043305 View attachment 1043306
Click to expand...

Thats Sharp! Thanks
 
I'm not a fan of boring out wheels as suggested above, especially in a cast wheel like this. You can see pretty clearly in that picture where the center bore is too close to the lug nut holes. Removing that material may severely compromise the strength of the wheel.

I would much rather see equal spacers front and rear. Its not great for the bearings, but bearings are cheap to replace and give warning when they are going bad. Wheels can crack and before you know it, become a big problem.
 
Golgo13 said:
I'm not a fan of boring out wheels as suggested above, especially in a cast wheel like this. You can see pretty clearly in that picture where the center bore is too close to the lug nut holes. Removing that material may severely compromise the strength of the wheel.

I would much rather see equal spacers front and rear. Its not great for the bearings, but bearings are cheap to replace and give warning when they are going bad. Wheels can crack and before you know it, become a big problem.
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The bore is not to close to the lugs. The ID is the same as the stock oem wheels. The difference is I did not bore the outside face of the wheel to match oem and accept the wheel cover. Therefore, the center bore reveals the luge nut bore on its ID. On the oem wheel this is not visible because this material has been removed by machining. Leaving this material on the wheel does not reduce its strength.

Aluminum wheels that fit over a FF axle are all made using this design and strength is more than adequate. This is because the center portion of the wheel carries little load. The reason this material exists on semi-float type wheels is for looks and to retain the wheel cover. FEA and fatigue analysis support this design use by Toyota and other mfgs..

Wheel spacers are more likely to cause a failure than a wheel bored to match the oem design.
20140225_122157 copy.jpg
 
I didn't spend last night in a Holiday Inn, but I did spend 3.5 years as a wheel engineer...

I'm not going to argue about this and go into to many details, I'm simply going to state that I wouldn't recommend boring out the wheel as shown.
 
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